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good suggestion. Thanks.
According to the fluid manufactures, it is fine to mix the 'matic-s compatible' fluid. I was told not to flush a high mileage transmission. Quote:
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I’m not speaking of putting any kinda solution/cleaning stuff through it- just drain,fill,operate & repeat until fluid is nice & clean. I’ve also heard the magnets in the pan will get pretty heavily covered. It’s all about “PM” (preventive maintenance) & not thinking about having to purchase a $9,000.00 tranny :eek: Or gamble on a re-Tran :ugh2: |
I was told not to flush high mileage trans by the dealers as well as independent technicians. I personally would not know either way, but decided just to do the drain/fill to be safe.
Saw your 'DIY' and thought that was great. ;) Quote:
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Just wanted to show an alternate way to fill the 7AT trans which I found to be a lot easier and less messy. There is a metal cap over what would normally be a dipstick on the right side of the trans that you can use as a fill port.
I bought some 5/8OD nylon tube from Lowes and a funnel. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the cap in place and fit the tube into the opening from the engine bay. The 5/8OD tube is the perfect size. Start the car up and move through the gears til you are at 104F temp on the transmission pan/fluid temp. Put it in park and leave the engine running. Remove the fill plug (make sure drain plug is installed) and place a catch pan under it. Add fluid through the funnel. Once the trans is full it will start to come out of the fill plug and drain into the pan. At this point you can reinstall the fill plug and torque to 9 ft lbs. Let the car cool and reinstall the "dipstick" cap. |
You can actually put a dipstick in that hole; another form member has a setup.....seems like it’s “Tractionless” that put a kit together.
Or get a stubby dipstick tube & dipstick :tup: |
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Oil professional over 32 years. I insist on tranny fluid that's changed. 60k especially if even street raced. I'm just now reading some threads on the subject. I blended all types of oils for automotive and industrial as well. ATF has a super low pour point & is still subject to breakdown and obtaining oxidation, moisture, and other contaminates. Engine oil must be changed and I do mine every 5k miles regardless. Commented from my phone so hope this makes a bit of sense .
I seen many oils in the lab and rarely after high miles or run conditions do they meet specs for viscosity, color, and more. Preventative maintenance is a must for me. It would be nice to take a sample out of the transmission so I could take it to a lab for further analysis. See the before and after results. |
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