Has my gauge gone haywire?

1slow370 · 11-11-2014, 09:14 PM

No the metal cap on the coolant neck engine must be cold

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

Jordo! · 11-11-2014, 09:24 PM

I was thinking head gasket too, but I figured it would just climb up and stay up without, say, the heater on full blast. Could temps swing like that with a failing gasket?

OP, I'd also check your oil to see if there's any evidence of coolant in it (e.g., looks milky and/or separated).

Read T · 11-11-2014, 09:56 PM

Or find someone on local forums/facebook who has a compression tester. They're like $30 from Harbor Freight.

EZT · 11-12-2014, 12:36 PM

Checked cap on coolant, it was not at the lip or bubbling out, checked oil as well and it does not appear milky at all.

1slow370 · 11-12-2014, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EZT

Checked cap on coolant, it was not at the lip or bubbling out, checked oil as well and it does not appear milky at all.

how far down was it, it should be at the inside lip, you may have an air pocket if it was low.

EZT · 11-12-2014, 01:09 PM

I've definitely got an air pocket then because it is extremely low. My overflow tank is full though. Maybe that bars stop leak wasn't the best option?

Mitco39 · 11-12-2014, 01:14 PM

Looking at 1slow370's fees you're racking up quite the tab!

1slow370 · 11-12-2014, 04:26 PM

^yes he is

Also time to bleed, go get one of these from a pepboys or something http://www.summitracing.com/parts/li...FYdffgod4UQAqQ

Attach it where the metal cap goes and fill er up to the top of the taper part. Then crack the bleed plug on the top of your csf radiator and hope it doesn't break/strip and close it once coolant starts coming out. Then start the car and turn the heater on and keep it full to the top of the taper part. let it come up to temp so the thermostat opens and then shut it off and let it cool down. Repeat this process 2 more times then shove the stick in the funnel, remove and dump it into the coolant jug and put the factory cap on. Check it again in a few days to see if it is still going down. If you chose to put in more stop leak while doing this add it first before filling the system. If the level continues to go down and no leaks can be located you need to get the head gaskets changed.

SouthArk370Z · 11-12-2014, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EZT

... Maybe that bars stop leak wasn't the best option?

The vast majority of additives are, at best, the equivalent of duct tape ... cheap duct tape ... maybe more like Scotch tape. More often than not, they end up making the situation worse. When they do any good at all, they merely mask the primary problem, which often leads to bigger problems down the road. If it's a DD, use only what's recommended in the Owner's Manual.

dant1127 · 11-12-2014, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

The vast majority of additives are, at best, the equivalent of duct tape ... cheap duct tape ... maybe more like Scotch tape.

They work great if you put them in right before you sell it and some sucker buys it without checking the tank for sediment and the fluid for proper color! Ask how I know

1slow370 · 11-12-2014, 06:31 PM

HAHA I remember back when cadillac and some GM models had problems with radiators sealing and FWIW there is a GM part number for a tube of BARS leaks pellets.

Edit: but if you can find the leak fix it, a radiator shop should be able to weld a leak on your csf radiator if it isn't in the midlle of the thing.

Tadpole · 11-12-2014, 07:28 PM

Use a couple of eggs. Problem fixed on leaks.

EZT · 11-13-2014, 12:59 AM

I greatly appreciate the amount of help from you guys, especially 1slow370. As if admiring your build was not enough, now I expect a bill from your services. Better get the paypal ready.

1slow370 · 11-13-2014, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EZT

I greatly appreciate the amount of help from you guys, especially 1slow370. As if admiring your build was not enough, now I expect a bill from your services. Better get the paypal ready.

Get it bleed and figure out if the gasket is bad first, then you can pay me if there is anything left of your life savings after changing it lol

11-11-2014, 09:14 PM	#16 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	No the metal cap on the coolant neck engine must be cold Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

11-11-2014, 09:24 PM	#17 (permalink)
Jordo! A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: nirvana Posts: 6,394 Drives: 2023 NATM Rep Power: 418	I was thinking head gasket too, but I figured it would just climb up and stay up without, say, the heater on full blast. Could temps swing like that with a failing gasket? OP, I'd also check your oil to see if there's any evidence of coolant in it (e.g., looks milky and/or separated). __________________ Enjoy it. Destroy it.

11-11-2014, 09:56 PM	#18 (permalink)
Read T A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2012 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 1,046 Drives: 11 Nissan 370z BC 6M Rep Power: 18	Or find someone on local forums/facebook who has a compression tester. They're like $30 from Harbor Freight. __________________ 2011 Nissan 370z Black Cherry Sport Pkg - Daily Driver, , 1960 Morgan +4 fun car, 1986 BMW 325ES, 1998 M3 and 1996 Spec Miata - Race Cars SUPPORT TEAM WINSOME RACING - WRL, CHUMP, LEMONS

11-12-2014, 01:14 PM	#22 (permalink)
Mitco39 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Edmonton Alberta Canada Posts: 2,089 Drives: 40th 370z Rep Power: 132	Looking at 1slow370's fees you're racking up quite the tab! __________________ 2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me 2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

11-12-2014, 04:26 PM	#23 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	^yes he is Also time to bleed, go get one of these from a pepboys or something http://www.summitracing.com/parts/li...FYdffgod4UQAqQ Attach it where the metal cap goes and fill er up to the top of the taper part. Then crack the bleed plug on the top of your csf radiator and hope it doesn't break/strip and close it once coolant starts coming out. Then start the car and turn the heater on and keep it full to the top of the taper part. let it come up to temp so the thermostat opens and then shut it off and let it cool down. Repeat this process 2 more times then shove the stick in the funnel, remove and dump it into the coolant jug and put the factory cap on. Check it again in a few days to see if it is still going down. If you chose to put in more stop leak while doing this add it first before filling the system. If the level continues to go down and no leaks can be located you need to get the head gaskets changed. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

11-12-2014, 12:36 PM	#19 (permalink)
EZT Track Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Gainesville Posts: 546 Drives: 09 370z Rep Power: 315	Checked cap on coolant, it was not at the lip or bubbling out, checked oil as well and it does not appear milky at all.

11-12-2014, 01:09 PM	#21 (permalink)
EZT Track Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Gainesville Posts: 546 Drives: 09 370z Rep Power: 315	I've definitely got an air pocket then because it is extremely low. My overflow tank is full though. Maybe that bars stop leak wasn't the best option?

11-12-2014, 06:31 PM	#26 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	HAHA I remember back when cadillac and some GM models had problems with radiators sealing and FWIW there is a GM part number for a tube of BARS leaks pellets. Edit: but if you can find the leak fix it, a radiator shop should be able to weld a leak on your csf radiator if it isn't in the midlle of the thing. dant1127 likes this. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50 Last edited by 1slow370; 11-12-2014 at 06:33 PM.

11-12-2014, 07:28 PM	#27 (permalink)
Tadpole A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Lockhart, TX Posts: 1,082 Drives: 13 Nissan 370Z A7 Rep Power: 18	Use a couple of eggs. Problem fixed on leaks. __________________ Takeda TR3009P Short Ram Intakes, Custom Dual Exhaust, X-Piped with 18" Resonators & TopSpeed Axle Backs. EVO-R Led Third Foglight,

11-13-2014, 12:59 AM	#28 (permalink)
EZT Track Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Gainesville Posts: 546 Drives: 09 370z Rep Power: 315	I greatly appreciate the amount of help from you guys, especially 1slow370. As if admiring your build was not enough, now I expect a bill from your services. Better get the paypal ready.

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