I took my car to a shop and everyone seems to believe the tps sensor is faulty. The problem being that I have to get all new throttle bodies to find out if this is correct. Might just go ahead and see what happens. very expensive though. We tested them but the problem would not recreate itself.

as Phunk stated earlier, id expect critical components like electronic throttle bodies and their inbuilt TPS modules would be pretty perfect these days and if something wasnt right, a DTC with limp mode should result.

cost and availability are the two reasons ive held off replacing them. There are some Hitachi generics on amazon and ebay for less than half the cost of the genuine Nissan ones. I wonder what the differences are because i have a Hitachi PDF that states the same part numbers. Surely casting Nissan and Renault into the exterior doesnt cost $600

I guarantee you new throttle bodies won't help because every 370z has this same behavior from the factory. Its mostly not noticeable unless you insist on accelerating in 6th gear everywhere you go.

It is a very noticeable change when the car acts up. Ive had the car for 2 years and up until a few months ago I never had any issues so it doesnt come like that.. I was using 6th gear as a reference. When in 6th gear on the highway i can hit the gas and feel the jolt backward into the seat and pull pretty hard. When the car acts up the car does not pull and will not accelerate very fast due to power loss.

Yea, it's not a good feeling. Using my aftermarket oil temp gauge as a reference, the car loves to build boost and vent at partial throttle when the oil temps are hovering around 160-180F. Once it approaches 180F it takes more throttle effort to build up boost.

The torque feeling is amazing, too, from a start. The further you press down on the pedal, the more power you feel. Once it starts acting up, there's not much more power felt. It's more difficult to build up more than 5 PSI of boost. My car get unusually quiet since the throttle isn't opening quickly or as wide. Plus, econo-cars get off the line quicker.

When my car was stock I made some videos where the car would spin the tires in 1st and 2nd from a roll, and after while it couldn't spin the tires anymore. I also recorded 2nd gear pulls. When the car acted up, it would take longer to finish the 2nd gear pull. Revs were slower to build up, and the motor didn't scream.

So...I have figured out my problem and it is dumb. I had a new battery put in and let the dealership do it. Turns out my optima is too small for the terminal connector so it was loose on the negative and making the electrical go a little crazy. Tightened it up a few days ago and no more issues. Also cleaned map and I can tell a big difference in the car.

GratZ :tup: I am glad it was something simple like that. Electrical gremlins can be a nightmare to chase down.

oh man! congrats to you! so the fault was a massive bad ground - not something that the FSM would tell you to check but hey, i'm really happy you got to the bottom of it and it cost you nothing to fix. i'm going to clean my battery terminals tonight and snug up the connections

Did you get your issues fixed yet? Guessing the battery wasnt the issue for you was it?

battery posts and connectors were flawless but i roughed it all up with sandpaper anyway. It didnt fix my issue.

I'm now thinking there might be a bug in my throttle map which only bites under certain conditions. It still doesnt explain why i had zero issues for many months. strange coincidence...