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Sure is but the reason to mount the tank low isn'tso much the frothing of oil, that WILL happen with a drysump even while running do tothe evacutaion of blow-by gas as well as oil in the scavenge stages(you count on tank design to takecar of this) but if the tank is mounted above thecrank level and you get oilleak back as the pump wears, you may endup in extreme cases with oil seeping past main seals or above piston rings and into cylinders (only on high capacity systems with a really high mounted tank. The biggest worry though is running the tank low at startup since all the oil is in the motor before the pump can pump it back into the tank in the firstfew seconds. My drysump could cy le all of the oil in the car in under 15seconds. It was a 30gpm system lol.
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great thread btw! I was hoping to find something like this. Sry you had to sell. Did you ever take it to 9k? I saw you mentioned it, I have yet to watch all the videos (thank you for videos!) and as it was asked before, the stock internals are able to support the higher then 7.5 redline easily. My goal is really just 8k with NA reliably and am starting to look into external oil pumps, as is sounds like the Nismo pump is not enough. Any advice is defiantly appreciated. All of my cars have been NA engine builds ( 1999 civic hb & 1999 Miata ), I am collecting data for this platform as this v6 thing is new to me. |
Another question. My buddy has the newer Z-06 corvette's with a dry sump. Is it necessary for the tank to be mounted in the rear? I know the Z's have limited space in the engine bay.
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Elmo you can locate it where ever you want however I know matt's tank was stupid large and contained somewhere near 12 quarts of oil if I remember correctly... depending on the amount of oil you run will determine where you can locate the oil reservoir... However, your trunk is going to be your best bet...
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But those V-8's have more engine bay space. What could you relocate to fit the tank.Also doesn't the tank have to be positioned a certain way?
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I'm leaning towards going this route in my build eventually.
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We dont have the space in the fender so it wont be able to go there... the only logical space is in the trunk/hatch with your dip stick/service port facing up...
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Thats what i figured
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What about relocating the battery to the back, or ditching your windshield wiping fluid and putting it there, or would the location be a bad idea?
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I just used a ruler and briefly measured my stock battery that is still in the car and it came out to 477ci. Plus or minus since I didnt get super accurate on the measurement. But that works out to 8.25 quarts.
If you custom fabricated a container for that compartment and maxed out on the dimensions that fit in there, im sure you could make 10 quarts. |
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On my race car (not actually my Z34) the dry-sump tank feed line to the pressure stage runs from the tank (in the passenger foot-well) to the pressure stage along the passenger side of the dry-sump pan (the line is covered in anti-abrasion / insulation and attached with "p" clips to the sump) and has a t-connector in it with a cap over the "t" at he lowest point of the line. I always lock-wire the "cap" to ensure it cannot come loose and spread oil under the car, onto tyres and/or the track. When I want to change the oil (straight after each race event), I have the car on the hoist, undo the cap on the t-fitting and voila - around 9 litres of Valvoline VR1 empties into a strategically placed 10 litre bucket. If you are serious about a dry-sump, you'll need to arrange something similar, OR provide enough slack in the supply and return lines to the pressure/scavenge stages so you can remove the tank to empty outside the car, OR invest in a suction pump to empty the tank in the car. You simply need to engineer a solution - and there are at leasy 3 ways you can do - possibly more that I've not suggested here. |
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Anyone know how thst car held up?
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It's with a new owner now. I can ask 1slow370z as he still sees the car on visiting basis lol
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What throttle bodies did you use? I'm working on adapting some for my build and was curious if they are the same ones. PM if you'd like and thanks in advance!
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Car is still running strong I'm doing an oil change for him soon since he has 6000 miles on it. you would be surprised how long 12.5 quarts of premium full synthetic will hold up with a 1 quart oil filter in street/canyon/general F'n around driving.
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Does the owner plan adding support mods to break the 400 barrier?
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Maybe someday, more track mods are up first.
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Maxima 5hroottles are too big to still mount the vhrs without an adapter. The two throttles over lap. The gtm plenum was designed to accept either throttle.
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What new car?
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Its a 1974 260z but not much of it is original lol. I dont have to smog it though.
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One question. Did you regret going NA? I am thinking hard about going this route for a change.
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for the price yes, for the sound and power of gears almost never ending no.
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Dry sump and the intake are hard to get over, price wise. The rest is not so bad since all the work would be on me. If I can work out those 2 challenges, I may attempt something similar.
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There is a prototype dry sump in the works that is half the price 1slow paid. Far as an intake mani two projects are going on, one is dead since we havent heard much in the in the last 4 months. Waiting game unless you want to crank out some serious cash for 1 off parts. Jwt is also working on an exhaust cam and a cam conversion for the intake side.
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yep 74.5 260z, metalic green. working on swapping in the 350z subframes now, and picking up my new motor on friday found a deal on a vk56
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I wish you made more videos of this thing it's a monster! The cams sound amazing
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