cheers.

I hear that...life is a b!tch

You will regret selling it, just keep it. Ask me how I know.

Keeping it is not an option anymore

Second job

Don't sell it

You having a baby or something?

Nah i have always just managed to afford it, and im sick of having no money. My hobby is working on my car so im going to sell it, upgrade my dd, and save up to buy a new cheaper project that i can afford to put more into, as well as have a better standard of living.

Makes sense

well I found a problem with ebay, you can't enter in the amount you want to bid, so this is going to take forever to reach the reserve price. I'm gonna end up posting it up again with a higher starting bid.

Yeah I would do that

Yay its finally getting close, tell everyone you know to get in on this lets keep the car on the forum.

State legal yes federal legal no, the feds will still come after you

True

Just trying to come up with ideas for you to keep your car

remove intake manifold and reproduce it...pay off car and debit

That's the best idea since I started following this thread.........Their would
surely be money left over as well.....:iagree:

-Clifford

:iagree:

I would buy the manifold

I would snap up a copy of that manifold.....:iagree:

Christmas add ons...Nissan 370Z floor mats...:eek:

Dam I sure would like that manifold.........:iagree:

-Clifford

what was the 1/4 mile ET and trap?

113mph, 60ft 2.238 page 7

Correction 2.328 60ft, it has traction and driver issues, and needs a taller rear gear lol thr traction is a big part of it, ran a 2.6 60ft the run before it and the trap was 107. The traction plays a big role, some 305 nt05r's and a 4.08 and it will do 12's no sweat.

I was trying to give you a better time

it has better times, just need at the minimum a driver mod, tires and gears and I believe it will go sub 12.5 at least.

Less than a day left on the ebay ad, message me that you are from the forum and the reserve will unofficially be off, it will sell.

Car is almost sold, had a real serious buyer stop by today to look at it, the bank stuff gets dealt with tomorrow.

nice hopefully doesn't flake...

Yep sold

So what's next for you?

Going to need to stabilize my employment situation and then move on to a cheap DD. After that i will start looking for a new project around 2018

Question about the dry Sump? Adding the dry sump, i noticed it increased your oil capacity by 7 quarts. Is that what is to be expected when going the dry sump route?

Short answer is yes, BUT that is not an "increase" but total capacity of the remote oil reservoir

I'm pretty sure his total capacity was 10-12 quarts actually

My gosh, oil changes are going to be hella expensive. How often would you have to change the oil? Say for the cars sits most if the time. Every 10,000 miles?

The D/S tank would have been huge - from memory it was under the hatch right at the back of the car on the passenger side - that the best part of 10-11 litres plus whatever sat in the lines ...

Petersen in that size at 9" in diameter and 16" tall so fitting on without boring a hole in the hatch floor would be a challenge.

I don't understand what you're saying...

His tank was huge. 10-11 liters is 11-12 quarts and his likes were like... 1"+ ID AND his oil filter probable held a quart by itself, lol

Yep when running with an oil level half way up the tank it it was 12.5 quarts. I was using a 25row cooler, a wix 57575r filter on an earls plate, with -16 lines from pump to tank. The tank was mounted on a slight angle but it was huge it went all the way through the carpet from hatch to trunk floor.

How to fit the tank under a closed hatch without boring a hole in the floor is my point ... answer is mount it on an angle.

My race car (for instance) has a 6" diameter, 24" tall dry-sump tank and that lives in the passenger foot well with a 6" hole cut in the scuttle above where your feet sit, so I can access the filler neck from where the battery used to be. Finding space to fit a dry-sump tank where the oil does not siphon into the sump and fill the bottom of the engine so that the crank when you start the engine does not cause the oil to foam straight away is a non-trivial engineering issue.

You really want the oil-level in the dry-sump tank not to be above the crank (because if the crank is submerged in oil when you start the engine, all it does is turn the oil inside the engine into foam and that can be a PITA).

Having the oil level in the dry-sump tank as high as it looks like it is will not be ideal unless measures are taken to avoid all that oil finishing up inside the block (even up to the the bottom of the bores !!) via gravity thru the pressure stage pump.

This is even more important with the Dailey system because the scavenge and pressure pumps are mounted so low in the engine bay.

Hopefully I am making myself clear .. if not, I'll have another glass of red and try again (sun is over the yard-arm in our neck of the woods and I am making a serious impression on a very nice Coonawarra cabernet).

RB

Complicated