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Old 04-09-2015, 02:39 PM   #211 (permalink)
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Thats what i figured
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Old 04-09-2015, 03:11 PM   #212 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bullitt5897 View Post
We dont have the space in the fender so it wont be able to go there... the only logical space is in the trunk/hatch with your dip stick/service port facing up...
How would one go about changing his/her oil? pump it out?
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Old 04-09-2015, 06:59 PM   #213 (permalink)
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What about relocating the battery to the back, or ditching your windshield wiping fluid and putting it there, or would the location be a bad idea?
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Old 04-09-2015, 07:09 PM   #214 (permalink)
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I just used a ruler and briefly measured my stock battery that is still in the car and it came out to 477ci. Plus or minus since I didnt get super accurate on the measurement. But that works out to 8.25 quarts.

If you custom fabricated a container for that compartment and maxed out on the dimensions that fit in there, im sure you could make 10 quarts.
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Old 04-09-2015, 08:29 PM   #215 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phunk View Post
I just used a ruler and briefly measured my stock battery that is still in the car and it came out to 477ci. Plus or minus since I didnt get super accurate on the measurement. But that works out to 8.25 quarts.

If you custom fabricated a container for that compartment and maxed out on the dimensions that fit in there, im sure you could make 10 quarts.
You would also need to shave and relocate all the wiring too. But if your saying is correct you could put it there...
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Old 04-09-2015, 08:36 PM   #216 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phunk View Post
I just used a ruler and briefly measured my stock battery that is still in the car and it came out to 477ci. Plus or minus since I didnt get super accurate on the measurement. But that works out to 8.25 quarts.

If you custom fabricated a container for that compartment and maxed out on the dimensions that fit in there, im sure you could make 10 quarts.
Sweet. Now would changing the oil be a major pain in the bass?
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Old 04-09-2015, 08:52 PM   #217 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Elmo370z View Post
Sweet. Now would changing the oil be a major pain in the bass?
To change the oil, you are going to need to be able to run a drain from the oil-tank somehow.

On my race car (not actually my Z34) the dry-sump tank feed line to the pressure stage runs from the tank (in the passenger foot-well) to the pressure stage along the passenger side of the dry-sump pan (the line is covered in anti-abrasion / insulation and attached with "p" clips to the sump) and has a t-connector in it with a cap over the "t" at he lowest point of the line. I always lock-wire the "cap" to ensure it cannot come loose and spread oil under the car, onto tyres and/or the track.

When I want to change the oil (straight after each race event), I have the car on the hoist, undo the cap on the t-fitting and voila - around 9 litres of Valvoline VR1 empties into a strategically placed 10 litre bucket.

If you are serious about a dry-sump, you'll need to arrange something similar, OR provide enough slack in the supply and return lines to the pressure/scavenge stages so you can remove the tank to empty outside the car, OR invest in a suction pump to empty the tank in the car.

You simply need to engineer a solution - and there are at leasy 3 ways you can do - possibly more that I've not suggested here.
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Old 04-10-2015, 11:15 AM   #218 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BGTV8 View Post
To change the oil, you are going to need to be able to run a drain from the oil-tank somehow.

On my race car (not actually my Z34) the dry-sump tank feed line to the pressure stage runs from the tank (in the passenger foot-well) to the pressure stage along the passenger side of the dry-sump pan (the line is covered in anti-abrasion / insulation and attached with "p" clips to the sump) and has a t-connector in it with a cap over the "t" at he lowest point of the line. I always lock-wire the "cap" to ensure it cannot come loose and spread oil under the car, onto tyres and/or the track.

When I want to change the oil (straight after each race event), I have the car on the hoist, undo the cap on the t-fitting and voila - around 9 litres of Valvoline VR1 empties into a strategically placed 10 litre bucket.

If you are serious about a dry-sump, you'll need to arrange something similar, OR provide enough slack in the supply and return lines to the pressure/scavenge stages so you can remove the tank to empty outside the car, OR invest in a suction pump to empty the tank in the car.

You simply need to engineer a solution - and there are at leasy 3 ways you can do - possibly more that I've not suggested here.
Thanks that really cleared a lot of questions. Now I just hAve to figure the cost for all this fabrication.
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Old 05-01-2015, 12:25 AM   #219 (permalink)
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Anyone know how thst car held up?
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Old 05-01-2015, 09:52 AM   #220 (permalink)
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It's with a new owner now. I can ask 1slow370z as he still sees the car on visiting basis lol
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Old 05-02-2015, 03:27 PM   #221 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bullitt5897 View Post
It's with a new owner now. I can ask 1slow370z as he still sees the car on visiting basis lol
Hell yea
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Old 05-20-2015, 11:40 PM   #222 (permalink)
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What throttle bodies did you use? I'm working on adapting some for my build and was curious if they are the same ones. PM if you'd like and thanks in advance!
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Old 05-21-2015, 01:52 AM   #223 (permalink)
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Car is still running strong I'm doing an oil change for him soon since he has 6000 miles on it. you would be surprised how long 12.5 quarts of premium full synthetic will hold up with a 1 quart oil filter in street/canyon/general F'n around driving.
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Old 05-21-2015, 03:42 AM   #224 (permalink)
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Does the owner plan adding support mods to break the 400 barrier?
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Old 05-21-2015, 05:16 PM   #225 (permalink)
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Maybe someday, more track mods are up first.
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