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Which cat-back you gonna go with? |
[QUOTE=kannibul;222712]I started with a Stillen G3 intake.
It was the product I was most comfortable buying, as I didn't see any valid competition...and, Stillen was having a 20% off sale with the G3 intake when I decided to make the purchase = no brainer..QUOTE] Except now emerging is an issue where it wears through your AC line. Taking the front off to check mine to make sure there are no rub issues as someone else has reported. |
Might I add, the NST Underdrive Pulley Kit?!
:tup: |
The instructions tell you to be wary of the rubbing problem. But, for those who missed it on the install, yea its a little bit of a pain to have to remove the bumper again. But all you have to do is move the line away from the intake and maybe wrap the line.
Still one of the best mods for the Z. |
Stillen intake, exhaust, and HFC's can net you 50-60whp alone with no other mods. I can add another 10-15whp on top of that with ECU tuning.
It's always best to define the goal of your specific build. Are you into looks, suspension-braking, or power? Those are the three major buckets. Personally, the first thing I mod on every one of my cars is the wheels, tires, and suspension. Then I start adding power. |
I am also having trouble desiding weather or not to just powder coat the wheels it came with or go with some kind of volk or something else..I have the yellow z so all black wheels is what i want...again, i am going back and forth on the stock rims???
Anyone know of a good priced wheel for these off the top of your heads...all black, i have looked at prolly 1000 different pics on this board..lol |
work on getting the least expensive mods done and move on to the more expensive mods but if money's not an issue start anywhere.
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My baseline hp was 281.7 (std) and after intake, headers, cats, exhaust, Cobb dyno tuning was..... 317.3 (std). That is a 35.6 rwhp gain and if you use a drivetrain correction factor of 17.2 % (Based upon actual dyno hp vs factory claimed hp) you get 41.7 flywheel hp. Remember, this also includes headers and correcting the fuel/air to about 12.8 to 1. So the actual gain from intake, cats, and exhaust would be a little less. Also, what are you using for tuning? Took my car to Cobb in Plano Tx and basically got ZERO gains from the four hour tuning session on their Mustang dyno. |
Probably should mention run 2 vs run 7 was the actual gain (12.9) from the Berk high flow cats. That means I got 22.7 hp from intake, headers and Stillen exhaust plus Cobb tuning not counting about a dozen headaches from installing the headers and exhaust fitment problems.
Just the facts, please. |
If Sharif says he can get that much I wouldnt doubt it... the guy is a genious with the VQ platform... The numbers do seem high but who knows...
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There has been enough documentation from people posting dyno sheets that I'm surprised anyone whom appears to be knowledgeable, would even attempt to "puffer" outputs. Speaking of Puffering.........If you take a peek at my posted dyno sheet you will notice the baseline is "run 2." The reason for that is the car sat about 45 minutes with the hood closed before going on the dyno and the output was about 10 hp less than when it sat 30 minutes more with it open. Didn't have anything to log with at the time so I don't know exactly what was going on (obviously heat related) but if I had posted that as the baseline then you would have seen a 50 hp gain. Problem is it is not apples to apples and would reflect a false gain over optimal conditions. Of course then, none of manufacturers selling items to automotive consumers would never do that. Boy Scouts honor, ya know. On the tuning side I'm a believer. Typical N/A cars will pick up usually between 5-12 hp. Certain cars like the LS3 have shown to benefit even more. Biggest issue I'm running into in trying to get mine tuned properly is the software is still in its infancy and for me tuning by Cobb was ineffective as a result. Wondering what he was using for tuning and was a very legit question. Hate to say this but most tuning secrets are really is no longer a secret: fuel/air is fuel/air, timing is timing. It's having the proper tools and getting them right in terms of what the individual car wants/likes. Not difficult with a wideband 02 and a dyno, but people whom do it every day certainly do pick up a trick or two over the average Joe (like me) and can squeeze out a tad extra. There is a certain titration between timing and how rich/lean the cars like with my Corvette liking 13.3 to 1 and a bit less timing to produce the best results. A lot of trial and error went into finding that out. |
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I am at the track at the moment so I cant post the dyno chart but I am sure Ben the owner will post it. Our dyno is a Dyno Dynamics and a bone stock 370 puts down 250whp consistently. 50whp has been proven time and time again. I am not sure what is going on with your car. When I get in front of my laptop I will do some research for you.
I have been tuning the VQ's for 5 years and have many hundreds of tunes under my belt. There is no fluff on my part. Thanks guys and sorry if I have any typos from iPhone. |
I am at the track at the moment so I cant post the dyno chart but I am sure Ben the owner will post it. Our dyno is a Dyno Dynamics and a bone stock 370 puts down 250whp consistently. 50whp has been proven time and time again. I am not sure what is going on with your car. When I get in front of my laptop I will do some research for you.
I have been tuning the VQ's for 5 years and have many hundreds of tunes under my belt. There is no fluff on my part. Thanks guys and sorry if I have any typos from iPhone. |
To the OP. I started with suspension KW V3, OS Giken LSD, Nismo Diff cover, add Oil cooler, relocate and upgrade power steering cooler.
Pending: Fast Internal exhaust, and a tune with Cobb AP. Quote:
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