Finally got limp mode
 

So I wasn't able to go past 3500 rpm and it was violently sputtering once I hit that mark. Oil was at 190 and in the middle of L and H. I turned car off and on didn't go away. I then turned it off again checked the oil let it sit for 10 mins and now no more limp mode. Hopefuly this is a one time thing or do I needs to fix something? I looked around and think I am fine

Only 190? o.O

You sure it wasn't 290? :confused:

That doesn't sound like limp mode. Something else is going on.

It definitely wasn't 290 haha is there something else going on? Wish I got a video

Do you have a code scanner? Sometimes a code will show up as pending in the ECU without throwing a CEL.

Nope but I could just go to pep boys right? It's possible a code can appear without the light?

Yep. If you're going to do any troubleshooting on a modern car, you need at least a DTC scanner. Cars nowadays are pretty good at diagnosing themselves and most of the time all you need to do is grab the DTC and Google it. With an OBD/CAN monitor, you can look at real-time parameters and look for things that aren't in spec.

Many auto parts store will loan/rent you a scanner. If Pep Boys gives you any static about a loaner, go to the next store. As cheap and as handy as a scanner is, I suggest buying one.

::iagree:

Thanks to the e-throttle, limp mode is quite smooth, it just does not rev as fast or far, no matter how much throttle you give it.

There's a bunch of stuff that can trigger it too, not just engine issues. I got limp mode after testing my headlight mods. I had both lights off of the car and can only assume that it did not like being turned on in that state. It went away after turning the car off and back on again.

Off the top of my head, my car was really unhappy when I forgot to reconnect the crank position sensor after installing a flywheel. Maybe the sensor or wiring is damaged. As the others have recommended, a code scanner is the best way to start the diagnosis path.

Every car guy should own one. It's up there with a torque wrench in terms of necessity for modern cars.

If you've got an Uprev cable (or a friend with one) you can pull codes with it as well using Cipher.

yah, keep us posted which code you got.

Which one would you recommend for a base car that has no bluethooth? I am assuming the one that connects directly to the obd2 port under steering wheel?

Never mind, a quick google search and found it..

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...er-reader.html

Shiit if it's 18 bucks I'll just buy one lol