Do you recommend any in UAE or Dubai ?
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09-30-2014, 06:41 AM | #31 (permalink) |
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Do you recommend any in UAE or Dubai ?
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10-04-2014, 01:16 AM | #32 (permalink) |
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You should try to contact CTD in Germany, apparently they installed jun cams on a 370z and got it running and claim 395 hp, now I don't know if that to the crank or wheels.
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10-16-2014, 02:55 AM | #33 (permalink) |
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Hi guys,
latest update. I changed the VVEL ECU and the problem remain the same? But the mechanic says that there are no power going to bank1 in the other hand bank2 is 2.6 as example. which mean that bank1 does not get electricity or what you can will call in term of mechanics any idea ????
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10-16-2014, 05:34 AM | #34 (permalink) |
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guys just to make it clear. The bank1 gives no voltage
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10-16-2014, 07:19 AM | #36 (permalink) |
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Sub'd to see what happens... Hope you get it running....
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10-16-2014, 10:35 AM | #37 (permalink) |
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check to see if the cam caps are backwards. also take the valve covers off and make sure you can physically move the vvel camshaft on that side. i had a guy that was assembling his own motor that had the same issue. turned out he had the cam caps backwards and seized the fulcrum on the vvel control shaft and it wouldnt allow it to move. hence getting stuck in that position.
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10-16-2014, 01:56 PM | #39 (permalink) | |
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10-16-2014, 04:03 PM | #40 (permalink) | |
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2) Download Adobe Reader (or your favorite PDF reader) installer 3) Burn files to a CD or DVD 4) Give disc to mechanic
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10-16-2014, 04:25 PM | #41 (permalink) |
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honestly if a shop doesn't have the fsm and is going to take your motor apart, go somewhere else because that is a really bad sign. It sounds like they screwed up the initial install and tried to operate the vehicle with the parts and sensors out of alignment which has resulted in other parts failing, such as setting the position sensors wrong enough that the vvel actuator was trying to turn through the stop overloading the servo drive in the control module and possibly leading to an over current situation on one bank that has damaged the sensors and wiring (each VVEL actuator can pull 40 amps at full dead load on the stops enough that you can see a witness mark from the torque on the shaft when it goes to the stop on the head). Most shops that reuse the vvel actuators on a built engine either mark the position of the actuator link and the control sensor before removal which will get it close enough to run without codes when fired back up, or perform the reset from the minimum lift position which leads to a 5 degree error in actual control shaft position but usually works. If you have a set of the factory actuator position keepers from a pair of new vvel actuators, or use a digital angle gauge you can actually perform the factory reset per the manual while reusing the old actuators and get factory accuracy on the control shaft position. I outlined the process in other thread.
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10-22-2014, 08:28 PM | #43 (permalink) |
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well I made a two **** tons of power with them but you can't really use me as an example because there is nothing stock under my hood really.
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10-22-2014, 08:52 PM | #45 (permalink) |
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everything attached to the heads is custom plus drysump and other stuff.
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