Clutch peddle issue/problem.
 

So let's start with the details of my car. I have a 2010 370 manual with 46k miles.
It's my daily driver I've never tracked it at the 1/4 mike or anything of the sort. As I got into my car this morning and started out on my day. I noticed right away that the peddle was disengaging/engaging very close to the wall and the peddle felt very very soft while I start to depress the peddle the first half of the way down. As I returned home from running around with the same issues. I noticed while on the hwy about to exit the HWY, the peddle stuck the floor only two inches from the wall. The car was still able to shift allowing two inches in or out on the peddle. I still have my warrenty on the car, but being a Sunday here in Texss the dealership are closed.

My guess is that it's a hydronic fluid issue... However I haven't seen any puddles under the car nor any funny smells or lights on the dash to indicate a problem with car.

Has anyone had similar issues, if so what was the outcome?

Thanks.
Jason-

Replace your clutch master and slave cylinders. One or both of them have failed and it is best to replace them at the same time.

If you call it a pedal, it might probably work the way it should. Lol.
Kidding aside though, time to change your CSC. Better to upgrade your CSC, master, the lines, and fluids. Look at Z1 or Specialty Z's kits. If you choose oem because you have extended warranty, it's your call. Mine went out under 12k miles. Still under warranty and that was 27k miles ago. I expect I to fail within a year so..... My next upgrade will be SpecialtyZ's flywheel and clutch + their Tilton slave.

If you have the coin to do the upgrades now, you should do it because your spending on the labor already anyway.

:iagree: This is the most likely culprit from an internet diagnosis stand point. FYI... the tranny needs to be dropped to get to the CSC. Consider upgrading to a heavy duty CSC or the external slave conversion sold by Z1 so that you do not have to drop the bell housing in the future to replace this notorious item. If your clutch disc is also getting close to needing replacement you may also want to do that while your at it because the CSC must be replaced when you do a clutch job too.

I'm surprised to hear that this would fail prematurely? Nissan has had so much good press with all of my past and current 350/370 friends. I've owned VW GtI's. Audit TT's, Audi, S4's all were manuals, and non of these cars did I ever experience failures with my clutch system.

When is the major service on the clutch/hydronic system schedule it for a flush? Does anyone know?

how is your clutch fluid level? have you tried the ranger fluid change method in the last 46k miles? ... is your clutch fluid brown? :ugh:

Clutch peddle issue/problem.
 

Thanks bat! As of the morning the car wouldn't even let me shift into reverse to try and limp it to the dealer. It's now waiting to be seen at the dealer via a tow truck ride. Also their warrantee information site was down so they couldn't even tell if they would cover it based on my extended warrantee...? It's been down almost 24hrs.

Hi Powder,

If you're not losing fluid then its the Master Cylinder that's bad. IF you can afford it have the Master and slave changed same time. First I would try the "Ranger Protocol" method to clean clutch fluid and see if that helps. Anything to give you time to keep driving and save up the money to get the work done on your terms. The Stealership will screw you longer if it's an emergency.

Clutch peddle issue/problem.
 

Stealership is covering the CSC failure. Now they won't cover the flush. I've taken the case to Nissan of America today with a case number. As well I filed a claim with https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ -which is where everyone should go and file, so we can all get this covered!

Good Luck Man! Devpointfive0 can give advice on here on dealing with Stealerships on warranty issues.

How much are they charging for the flush? Fluid + an hour of labor? It's not that difficult of a thing to do, nor does it take very much fluid.

$129 for the flush and I got them to upgrade to Dot4 -which is what the GTR's have.

That seems pretty reasonable, TBH, but I understand that it is the principle of the thing.

Fluid "Flush" with DOT4 is the first step, that's why I always recommend the "Ranger Protocol" method, as that's all they're doing anyway. Clutch fluid gets so dirty that the ORings can't seal and push the fluid without it leaking past. Over time it will damage the ORings and necessitate replacing the Master, it's got tiny delicate ORings versus the CSC huge ORing.