If there is enough knock back on the pads and the piston boots have failed you can get trace contamination from out side the system if friction dust get dragged back past the seal, regardless most contamination is from rust, burned fluid, or broken down seals, contamination can also enter through the vented master cylinder cap and be pumped through the lines as well.

the CSC has an issue with clutch friction dust getting pulled back past the seal as well, it gets stuck to the exposed part of the cylinder since there is no wiper seal and as the clutch is actuated it can work its ways past the directional piston seal.

Also the Z and especially the nismo are marketed in a way that is deceptive. It is billed as a great cheap track car for enthusiasts when in reality it is soooo bad from the factory that car and driver suffered complete brake failure 2 laps into testing the car and totaled it into a wall on track. Nissan miscalculated and corrected the pad compound so that now they will last 5 laps but the car will over heat on the third. but it has a wing and a racing reference stripe on the steering wheel now :rolleyes:

I don't usually post in these mind numbing threads. But I am still trying to wrap my head around side stepping the clutch at 5k on a wet surface and not being able to roast the tires down. I drag my car quite often and side step it at around 3.5k while preloading the car and struggle for traction off the line through almost the top of second. If I did the same at 5k I would get stupid amounts of wheel hop and just spanking the rear tires off the back. I don't care what tires you are running or how sticky they are, when you drop the clutch at 5k on a wet road and you smoke the clutch, that leads me to honestly believe, and don't take this the wrong way, but don't know how to drive a stick shift and have managed to damage it before doing this. I sit at the tree at the strip slipping the hell out of the clutch while waiting for the tree to drop. I am at 70k on the factory clutch still and it still holds strong, each and every power shift. Only clutch issue I have ran into was when I went in for a brake and clutch fluid change to GTR fluid and the clutch fluid had broken down to much and clogged either the master or slave and stopped draining half way through the change. Got both replaced.

Side-stepping the clutch pedal at 5 grand on a wet road and not spinning the tires. Tells me one thing. You're was in the wrong gear. Most likely 3rd, not 1st. :driving:

Just have the clutch fluid changed and clean out the black sludge. It is normal for that black sludge to build up and was not due to your attempt at some fun.

All I have to say is upgrade time. Time to upgrade to a lightened flywheel and good quality clutch, pressure plate. Don't skimp on the clutch, lightened flywheels love to slip cheap clutches in no time and you will be doing it again.


Look at it this way. Whoever drove my car 19,000 miles couldn't drive a manual for crap. I get to have the studdering take offs without the attempt at any fun. That's OK though, I will correct that issue in due time.

the wrong gear hypothesis would definitly be good reason why this would have happened. my oe clutch saw much abuse in the 36,000 miles i had on it and it still has a ton of life left on it. i mean burnouts, clutch drops, drag passes, track days, driving like a tool, hill starts, pretty much everything you can do to burn a clutch even 2nd gear launches. either you were in third or something was wrong before you did it.

Maybe in third and the e-brake was on as well.

I have 57k on the stock clutch and I've launched at 3.5k-5k a handful of times at AutoX and never had issues with slipping.

The only issues I've had with the clutch is the stock fluid getting dirty and I swapped it out with Motul 600 and it got rid of the pedal stick and mushiness in the pedal.

My guess is that you were launching in third and when you shifted you went into either 2nd or 4th, then back to third. Theres no way that launching at 5k in 1st gear would cause the wheels to sit still and have the clutch smoke. And we can't blame it on holding the brake down like the Corvette video because the Nissan vehicles don't allow you to use the brake and gas at the same time. SO your launch should have had zero restrictions, besides driver error.

The error was that i shifted it while the wheels were spinning twice. Since there was such a lack of traction, the tail STOPPED wagging when i tried to put it into 3rd. Yes yes, dumb im already over that. As for knowing how to drive stick, thats all ive ever owned. From my 68 xr7 ragtop cougar "4spd,302, 9in" at 16 until the nismo i own now ive never owned an auto, and this is the first one ive ever owned that cant take any kind of abuse. Shouldnt abuse it anyway, but it was a heated momentary lapse in judgment to show boat. Just wanted to know if it was damaged or not, thanks for the responses about the black residue too i feel a lot better about it now.

Gotta ask, why does it have to be a twin disk system? Are you familiar with the performance and drivability differences between, single and dual disk systems? I'm asking because, based on your question about the residue in your master cylinder and what to do about it, I think you need to study up on the system before you decided what you have to have....just my two cents.

Holy cow, what happened? I don't drive a manual (yet)

^ we covered this he grabbed third and smoked the clutch /thread