FIXED: Rear axle click clunk noise

shaun66 · 10-28-2014, 05:44 PM

Just noticed axles or suspension are clicking when turing tight or going over bumps now. Good god is it loud it makes it sound like its going to come apart on me. I have an 09 so should probably call them asap.

shaun66 · 10-28-2014, 05:55 PM

Sooo google search turns up nothing any idea if theres any TSB posted anywhere online thats legit? Theres one website that wants you to pay to see it lol forget that.

Read T · 10-29-2014, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shaun66

Sooo google search turns up nothing any idea if theres any TSB posted anywhere online thats legit? Theres one website that wants you to pay to see it lol forget that.

I couldn't find one (nor could my dealer) Specific for the 370z. The 350Z's I found as well as the quest and versa. The dealer I went to just listed the quest's (See my post 4 earlier).

zefaulter · 11-07-2014, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juld0zer

Hey guys,
As some of you will know, i've been battling these clicking axles for a while. I have tried:
- Lazy fix - basically removing the big nut, pushing the axle in as far as possible and injecting a crapload of wheel bearing grease. Then torquing up the nut to spec. Didn't last long at all.

NB: There are 2 torque specs depending on your year model/the way the big nut is secured.

- Official Nissan fix using Molykote M77 grease. Involves removing both axles, cleaning and applying this special grease and replacing all nuts, bolts, cotter pins, caps. This solution didn't last long - i had my hopes up but i also had my doubts that this super-grease could cushion the metallic click to the point where Nissan engineers declared it as eliminated. For those who want to try it but can't find the grease, you can buy it in a tube from your Honda motorcycle dealer. Google "Honda M77 assembly paste".

- Re-torquing the nut an extra 10Nm each time the noise reappeared. I couldn't go on forever retorquing the nut. With the success i was having, i'd be up to 300Nm by now.

*drum roll*
This is the solution that has eliminated the noise for me. The noise used to come back every 4000km, on alternate sides. This solution has worked for the past 9000km (almost 5 months). I am driving the car harder now that i have some mods too. No, it doesn't involve Loctite and it doesn't cost a fortune either.

Here's what you need if you want to have a go:

- Kawasaki axle nut (yes, seriously). Part number 92210-0280. They're about $15 each from your local Kawasaki dealer. The nut is almost identical in dimensions to the OEM flange type nut - you use the same socket too. Kawasaki specifies similar torque specs to what Nissan specifies so there's no doubt the nut can handle it. It's made in Japan so it must be good, right? :P

This particular nut is castellated, so it combines the OEM big nut plus the pathetic OEM 'adjusting cap' (as fitted to 2011 models and other year models) into one nut. Unlike the weak tin steel prongs of the adjusting cap, the 6 slots in the Kawasaki nut won't get crushed over time from the constant banging of the cotter pin when you accelerate/coast. The slots are also quite snug when you use an OEM cotter pin so again, there's almost no possibility of movement.

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo1-1.jpg
http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo2-1.jpg

- 2 OEM spring washers. One for each side. You'll need the washers to make up the gap because the Kawasaki nut, being just as tall as the OEM nut, will not reach the cotter pin hole in the end of the axle. In the OEM setup, the 'adjusting cap' would sit over the nut and its prongs would reach the cotter pin hole.

- New OEM cotter pins. Don't re-use the old ones. You dont want to be forever mucking around with this.

- Torque the nut up to the OEM spec for a 370z with adjusting cap. You'll notice that the castellated slots don't line up with the cotter pin hole in the axle. This is fine. Use your breaker bar and turn the nut until the next available slot lines up with the hole.

How you torque the nut is up to you. Some prefer to mount the wheel and lower the car til the wheel touches the ground. I just put a jack stand underneath the rotor hat and lowered the car til some weight was resting on the jack stand.

- Fit NEW cotter pin and secure it properly. You might need a small hammer to push it thru.

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo3-1.jpg

- Reinstall wheel and enjoy

I hope you enjoy the same success as i did. You don't have to use a Kawasaki nut but any castellated nut of the same thread and diameter will be fine. Don't use an aluminium or soft metal nut.

Good luck!

Dealer said it's not covered under warranty. Anyone has part list I can give my nissan parts guy?

JARblue · 11-07-2014, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zefaulter

Dealer said it's not covered under warranty. Anyone has part list I can give my nissan parts guy?

2011 Nissan 370Z Coupe OEM Parts - Nissan USA eStore

Spring washer is 40037-1CA0A
Cotter pin is 40073-0L700

Guavazo · 11-20-2014, 09:14 AM

Dealer would not cover the repair due to its "re-apply grease" not repair of the TSB. come back with same TSB number: NTB12 - 055d. going to just fix it myself with the OP method.

Read T · 11-20-2014, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guavazo

Dealer would not cover the repair due to its "re-apply grease" not repair of the TSB. come back with same TSB number: NTB12 - 055d. going to just fix it myself with the OP method.

That's too bad. It's not listed in "maintenance" of the FSM and should be a warrantied issue (as it is with the 350Z, Quest, sedans, and my 370z). Might be worth checking at another dealership before you get your hands too greasy.

JARblue · 11-20-2014, 09:44 AM

I checked with 3 dealers around town. They just got quiet when I asked why it wasn't listed as a maintenance item. One said they would cover it within 12K miles, and the other two said within 36K miles. The dealer that told me 12K miles said it would cost nearly $300

The other two quoted around $130, but I just bought the parts for $20 and a big tube of moly paste from Honda for $15.

Does anyone know what type of grease I should use in lieu of the Nissan grease per the FSM page attached? Grease 1 is the Nissan grease, and grease 2 is the moly paste. Nissan dealer wouldn't sell me either one since they only have huge containers of them for the techs to use.

juld0zer · 11-20-2014, 12:02 PM

you could probably use a high grade CV joint grease in lieu of the Nissan grease. I doubt the dealers use the genuine grease anyway - because like motor oil, if there's nothing special about the Nissan grease (eg like the BMW E46 M3 you can't just use any diff oil meeting the viscosity spec. The genuine oil has extra friction modifiers and it helps quieten the noise by a lot) then they can get away with a grease from their lube supplier that suits the application. For split boots they'd probably just replace the CV shaft as a whole unit.

Are your boots split?

juld0zer · 11-20-2014, 12:03 PM

Here in aussie-land, the local dealers had no clue what the M77 paste was. They just said to use wheel bearing grease. Then a few dealers said that the service manual i have only applies to USA models. sigh... you guys should feel lucky!

JARblue · 11-20-2014, 01:43 PM

Boots looked good last inspection a few months ago. Hoping I won't need the grease at all. Looks like I can get some at the chain auto stores though.

juld0zer · 11-20-2014, 02:57 PM

no need to disturb them then

zefaulter · 11-25-2014, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

Boots looked good last inspection a few months ago. Hoping I won't need the grease at all. Looks like I can get some at the chain auto stores though.

What is considered broken boot? Is it supposed to be literally broken/cracked? Also they have a repair kit for $45 last time I asked(each side)

juld0zer · 11-25-2014, 06:17 PM

yep, generally the boot will be torn, split, or the clamps have come loose allowing the boot to slide off. Essentially, it's anything that will cause debris contamination of the grease and mechanism inside. If you can't see grease on the exterior of the boots then i wouldnt disturb the boots. Avoid scuffing them and damaging them when working nearby and you'll be fine

zefaulter · 11-25-2014, 11:55 PM

Besides the rust, would you consider this damaged? There is way too much rust, breaks my heart looking at it

11-20-2014, 09:14 AM	#51 (permalink)
Guavazo Base Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: ME Posts: 61 Drives: 10 370Z PG+Sport 6MT Rep Power: 15	Dealer would not cover the repair due to its "re-apply grease" not repair of the TSB. come back with same TSB number: NTB12 - 055d. going to just fix it myself with the OP method. vman12 likes this.

11-20-2014, 12:03 PM	#55 (permalink)
juld0zer Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Sydney Posts: 428 Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 139	Here in aussie-land, the local dealers had no clue what the M77 paste was. They just said to use wheel bearing grease. Then a few dealers said that the service manual i have only applies to USA models. sigh... you guys should feel lucky! vman12 likes this.

11-20-2014, 01:43 PM	#56 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	Boots looked good last inspection a few months ago. Hoping I won't need the grease at all. Looks like I can get some at the chain auto stores though. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

11-25-2014, 06:17 PM	#59 (permalink)
juld0zer Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Sydney Posts: 428 Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 139	yep, generally the boot will be torn, split, or the clamps have come loose allowing the boot to slide off. Essentially, it's anything that will cause debris contamination of the grease and mechanism inside. If you can't see grease on the exterior of the boots then i wouldnt disturb the boots. Avoid scuffing them and damaging them when working nearby and you'll be fine JARblue and zefaulter like this.

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10-28-2014, 05:44 PM	#46 (permalink)
shaun66 Track Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: n Posts: 837 Drives: MB 370z 7AT Rep Power: 16	Just noticed axles or suspension are clicking when turing tight or going over bumps now. Good god is it loud it makes it sound like its going to come apart on me. I have an 09 so should probably call them asap.

10-28-2014, 05:55 PM	#47 (permalink)
shaun66 Track Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: n Posts: 837 Drives: MB 370z 7AT Rep Power: 16	Sooo google search turns up nothing any idea if theres any TSB posted anywhere online thats legit? Theres one website that wants you to pay to see it lol forget that.

11-20-2014, 12:02 PM	#54 (permalink)
juld0zer Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Sydney Posts: 428 Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 139	you could probably use a high grade CV joint grease in lieu of the Nissan grease. I doubt the dealers use the genuine grease anyway - because like motor oil, if there's nothing special about the Nissan grease (eg like the BMW E46 M3 you can't just use any diff oil meeting the viscosity spec. The genuine oil has extra friction modifiers and it helps quieten the noise by a lot) then they can get away with a grease from their lube supplier that suits the application. For split boots they'd probably just replace the CV shaft as a whole unit. Are your boots split?

11-20-2014, 02:57 PM	#57 (permalink)
juld0zer Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Sydney Posts: 428 Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 139	no need to disturb them then

11-25-2014, 11:55 PM	#60 (permalink)
zefaulter A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 1,983 Drives: 40th 370Z Rep Power: 27	Besides the rust, would you consider this damaged? There is way too much rust, breaks my heart looking at it