FIXED: Rear axle click clunk noise

juld0zer · 06-23-2014, 11:21 AM

Hey guys,
As some of you will know, i've been battling these clicking axles for a while. I have tried:
- Lazy fix - basically removing the big nut, pushing the axle in as far as possible and injecting a crapload of wheel bearing grease. Then torquing up the nut to spec. Didn't last long at all.

NB: There are 2 torque specs depending on your year model/the way the big nut is secured.

- Official Nissan fix using Molykote M77 grease. Involves removing both axles, cleaning and applying this special grease and replacing all nuts, bolts, cotter pins, caps. This solution didn't last long - i had my hopes up but i also had my doubts that this super-grease could cushion the metallic click to the point where Nissan engineers declared it as eliminated. For those who want to try it but can't find the grease, you can buy it in a tube from your Honda motorcycle dealer. Google "Honda M77 assembly paste".

- Re-torquing the nut an extra 10Nm each time the noise reappeared. I couldn't go on forever retorquing the nut. With the success i was having, i'd be up to 300Nm by now.

*drum roll*
This is the solution that has eliminated the noise for me. The noise used to come back every 4000km, on alternate sides. This solution has worked for the past 9000km (almost 5 months). I am driving the car harder now that i have some mods too. No, it doesn't involve Loctite and it doesn't cost a fortune either.

Here's what you need if you want to have a go:

- Kawasaki axle nut (yes, seriously). Part number 92210-0280. They're about $15 each from your local Kawasaki dealer. The nut is almost identical in dimensions to the OEM flange type nut - you use the same socket too. Kawasaki specifies similar torque specs to what Nissan specifies so there's no doubt the nut can handle it. It's made in Japan so it must be good, right? :P

This particular nut is castellated, so it combines the OEM big nut plus the pathetic OEM 'adjusting cap' (as fitted to 2011 models and other year models) into one nut. Unlike the weak tin steel prongs of the adjusting cap, the 6 slots in the Kawasaki nut won't get crushed over time from the constant banging of the cotter pin when you accelerate/coast. The slots are also quite snug when you use an OEM cotter pin so again, there's almost no possibility of movement.

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo1-1.jpg
http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo2-1.jpg

- 2 OEM spring washers. One for each side. You'll need the washers to make up the gap because the Kawasaki nut, being just as tall as the OEM nut, will not reach the cotter pin hole in the end of the axle. In the OEM setup, the 'adjusting cap' would sit over the nut and its prongs would reach the cotter pin hole.

- New OEM cotter pins. Don't re-use the old ones. You dont want to be forever mucking around with this.

- Torque the nut up to the OEM spec for a 370z with adjusting cap. You'll notice that the castellated slots don't line up with the cotter pin hole in the axle. This is fine. Use your breaker bar and turn the nut until the next available slot lines up with the hole.

How you torque the nut is up to you. Some prefer to mount the wheel and lower the car til the wheel touches the ground. I just put a jack stand underneath the rotor hat and lowered the car til some weight was resting on the jack stand.

- Fit NEW cotter pin and secure it properly. You might need a small hammer to push it thru.

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo3-1.jpg

- Reinstall wheel and enjoy

I hope you enjoy the same success as i did. You don't have to use a Kawasaki nut but any castellated nut of the same thread and diameter will be fine. Don't use an aluminium or soft metal nut.

Good luck!

6spd · 06-23-2014, 11:26 AM

Wow thats a pretty novel idea! I hated this noise in my old Z, so this is great to know for the future, since its inevitable.

TreeSemdyZee · 06-23-2014, 08:29 PM

Ticks me off that this was a free fix on the 350, but I paid $160+ on my 370. I'll definitely follow your DIY if/when it happens again.

limited733 · 09-15-2014, 03:15 PM

OEM spring washers?What is the dimension?

JARblue · 10-06-2014, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by limited733

OEM spring washers?What is the dimension?

I am interested in this information as well. Anyone?

juld0zer · 10-06-2014, 10:34 AM

the spring washer is the big washer that goes beneath the big axle nut. you need two per side because the Kawasaki nut is *shorter* than the OEM axle nut.

the Kawasaki nut is actually physically almost identical in size but since it is the castellated type (nut with inbuilt castle-like top), the castellated slots fall short of the cotter pin hole in the axle.
For this to be an effective fix, the slots must have a cotter pin driven thru them, hence the need for an extra washer.

chops · 10-06-2014, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juld0zer

the spring washer is the big washer that goes beneath the big axle nut. you need two per side because the Kawasaki nut is *shorter* than the OEM axle nut.

the Kawasaki nut is actually physically almost identical in size but since it is the castellated type (nut with inbuilt castle-like top), the castellated slots fall short of the cotter pin hole in the axle.
For this to be an effective fix, the slots must have a cotter pin driven thru them, hence the need for an extra washer.

got any part numbers for the spring washer?

JARblue · 10-06-2014, 02:35 PM

I'm on it. It's a part you already need... you just get two of them per wheel. FSM - RAX-7 it is number 8 and labeled spring washer. The Nissan part number is 40037-1CA0A. The FSM appears to show a LH and RH, but they both reference the same part number.

JARblue · 10-06-2014, 03:01 PM

Ordered two Kawasaki axle nuts earlier today from the local Woods Fun Center. And I ordered four washers and two cotter pins from the Nissan dealer just now. I guess I'll regrease at the same time, so I'll probably just pick up the grease at Woods when I pick up the axle nuts.

juld0zer · 10-06-2014, 05:52 PM

yep, that's the correct part number. if parts or cash is scarce, you can reuse the old spring washers like i did. i only ordered enough parts to do the job as per the bulletin/service manual. I didnt realise the Kawasaki nut was *shorter* til they arrived, so reusing the old spring washers was a quick on the spot solution to get the car buttoned up and off my mate's driveway.

finding a castellated nut of OEM grade with identical threads was enough of a challenge so i wasnt going to let a bunch of washers ruin my day

good luck guys! just remember to torque the nut to spec, then budge it clockwise with a breaker bar til it reaches the next slot and punch the cotter pin thru it.
the cotter pin MUST be very snug so you might have to experiment with how you fit it (rotate, hold, hammer, etc). i highly recommend getting a few extra pins because they aren't as easy to fit properly due to the hub interfering with any direct strikes.
It MUST be fitted snugly!

Part numbers (including OEM components required for those attempting the official Nissan fix):
nissan cotter pin: 40073-0L700
nissan big nut: 40262-1CA0A
nissan adjusting cap: 40263-1CA0A
nissan spring washers: 40037-1CA0A
M77 grease: get it from Honda

chops · 10-10-2014, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juld0zer

yep, that's the correct part number. if parts or cash is scarce, you can reuse the old spring washers like i did. i only ordered enough parts to do the job as per the bulletin/service manual. I didnt realise the Kawasaki nut was *shorter* til they arrived, so reusing the old spring washers was a quick on the spot solution to get the car buttoned up and off my mate's driveway.

finding a castellated nut of OEM grade with identical threads was enough of a challenge so i wasnt going to let a bunch of washers ruin my day

good luck guys! just remember to torque the nut to spec, then budge it clockwise with a breaker bar til it reaches the next slot and punch the cotter pin thru it.
the cotter pin MUST be very snug so you might have to experiment with how you fit it (rotate, hold, hammer, etc). i highly recommend getting a few extra pins because they aren't as easy to fit properly due to the hub interfering with any direct strikes.
It MUST be fitted snugly!

Part numbers (including OEM components required for those attempting the official Nissan fix):
nissan cotter pin: 40073-0L700
nissan big nut: 40262-1CA0A
nissan adjusting cap: 40263-1CA0A
nissan spring washers: 40037-1CA0A
M77 grease: get it from Honda

wait, im a little confused. if using the kawasaki nuts, do i need to buy the OEM nissan big nuts and adjusting caps?

juld0zer · 10-11-2014, 07:11 AM

nope, you'll just need new cotter pins and the extra spring washers.

the rest is for folks who want to attempt the official Nissan fix

chops · 10-11-2014, 04:23 PM

thanks! ordered the pins and the extra spring washers. tired of this clicking

Tadpole · 10-11-2014, 06:04 PM

I purchased a used set from a bone yard when I had my 350z. No clicking noises afterward.
I still have my old ones if anyone might want them.

LennyZCSD · 10-13-2014, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juld0zer

Hey guys,
As some of you will know, i've been battling these clicking axles for a while. I have tried:
- Lazy fix - basically removing the big nut, pushing the axle in as far as possible and injecting a crapload of wheel bearing grease. Then torquing up the nut to spec. Didn't last long at all.

NB: There are 2 torque specs depending on your year model/the way the big nut is secured.

- Official Nissan fix using Molykote M77 grease. Involves removing both axles, cleaning and applying this special grease and replacing all nuts, bolts, cotter pins, caps. This solution didn't last long - i had my hopes up but i also had my doubts that this super-grease could cushion the metallic click to the point where Nissan engineers declared it as eliminated. For those who want to try it but can't find the grease, you can buy it in a tube from your Honda motorcycle dealer. Google "Honda M77 assembly paste".

- Re-torquing the nut an extra 10Nm each time the noise reappeared. I couldn't go on forever retorquing the nut. With the success i was having, i'd be up to 300Nm by now.

*drum roll*
This is the solution that has eliminated the noise for me. The noise used to come back every 4000km, on alternate sides. This solution has worked for the past 9000km (almost 5 months). I am driving the car harder now that i have some mods too. No, it doesn't involve Loctite and it doesn't cost a fortune either.

Here's what you need if you want to have a go:

- Kawasaki axle nut (yes, seriously). Part number 92210-0280. They're about $15 each from your local Kawasaki dealer. The nut is almost identical in dimensions to the OEM flange type nut - you use the same socket too. Kawasaki specifies similar torque specs to what Nissan specifies so there's no doubt the nut can handle it. It's made in Japan so it must be good, right? :P

This particular nut is castellated, so it combines the OEM big nut plus the pathetic OEM 'adjusting cap' (as fitted to 2011 models and other year models) into one nut. Unlike the weak tin steel prongs of the adjusting cap, the 6 slots in the Kawasaki nut won't get crushed over time from the constant banging of the cotter pin when you accelerate/coast. The slots are also quite snug when you use an OEM cotter pin so again, there's almost no possibility of movement.

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo1-1.jpg
http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo2-1.jpg

- 2 OEM spring washers. One for each side. You'll need the washers to make up the gap because the Kawasaki nut, being just as tall as the OEM nut, will not reach the cotter pin hole in the end of the axle. In the OEM setup, the 'adjusting cap' would sit over the nut and its prongs would reach the cotter pin hole.

- New OEM cotter pins. Don't re-use the old ones. You dont want to be forever mucking around with this.

- Torque the nut up to the OEM spec for a 370z with adjusting cap. You'll notice that the castellated slots don't line up with the cotter pin hole in the axle. This is fine. Use your breaker bar and turn the nut until the next available slot lines up with the hole.

How you torque the nut is up to you. Some prefer to mount the wheel and lower the car til the wheel touches the ground. I just put a jack stand underneath the rotor hat and lowered the car til some weight was resting on the jack stand.

- Fit NEW cotter pin and secure it properly. You might need a small hammer to push it thru.

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo3-1.jpg

- Reinstall wheel and enjoy

I hope you enjoy the same success as i did. You don't have to use a Kawasaki nut but any castellated nut of the same thread and diameter will be fine. Don't use an aluminium or soft metal nut.

Good luck!

06-23-2014, 11:21 AM	#1 (permalink)
juld0zer Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Sydney Posts: 428 Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 139	FIXED: Rear axle click clunk noise Hey guys, As some of you will know, i've been battling these clicking axles for a while. I have tried: - Lazy fix - basically removing the big nut, pushing the axle in as far as possible and injecting a crapload of wheel bearing grease. Then torquing up the nut to spec. Didn't last long at all. NB: There are 2 torque specs depending on your year model/the way the big nut is secured. - Official Nissan fix using Molykote M77 grease. Involves removing both axles, cleaning and applying this special grease and replacing all nuts, bolts, cotter pins, caps. This solution didn't last long - i had my hopes up but i also had my doubts that this super-grease could cushion the metallic click to the point where Nissan engineers declared it as eliminated. For those who want to try it but can't find the grease, you can buy it in a tube from your Honda motorcycle dealer. Google "Honda M77 assembly paste". - Re-torquing the nut an extra 10Nm each time the noise reappeared. I couldn't go on forever retorquing the nut. With the success i was having, i'd be up to 300Nm by now. drum roll This is the solution that has eliminated the noise for me. The noise used to come back every 4000km, on alternate sides. This solution has worked for the past 9000km (almost 5 months). I am driving the car harder now that i have some mods too. No, it doesn't involve Loctite and it doesn't cost a fortune either. Here's what you need if you want to have a go: - Kawasaki axle nut (yes, seriously). Part number 92210-0280. They're about $15 each from your local Kawasaki dealer. The nut is almost identical in dimensions to the OEM flange type nut - you use the same socket too. Kawasaki specifies similar torque specs to what Nissan specifies so there's no doubt the nut can handle it. It's made in Japan so it must be good, right? :P This particular nut is castellated, so it combines the OEM big nut plus the pathetic OEM 'adjusting cap' (as fitted to 2011 models and other year models) into one nut. Unlike the weak tin steel prongs of the adjusting cap, the 6 slots in the Kawasaki nut won't get crushed over time from the constant banging of the cotter pin when you accelerate/coast. The slots are also quite snug when you use an OEM cotter pin so again, there's almost no possibility of movement. http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo1-1.jpg http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo2-1.jpg - 2 OEM spring washers. One for each side. You'll need the washers to make up the gap because the Kawasaki nut, being just as tall as the OEM nut, will not reach the cotter pin hole in the end of the axle. In the OEM setup, the 'adjusting cap' would sit over the nut and its prongs would reach the cotter pin hole. - New OEM cotter pins. Don't re-use the old ones. You dont want to be forever mucking around with this. - Torque the nut up to the OEM spec for a 370z with adjusting cap. You'll notice that the castellated slots don't line up with the cotter pin hole in the axle. This is fine. Use your breaker bar and turn the nut until the next available slot lines up with the hole. How you torque the nut is up to you. Some prefer to mount the wheel and lower the car til the wheel touches the ground. I just put a jack stand underneath the rotor hat and lowered the car til some weight was resting on the jack stand. - Fit NEW cotter pin and secure it properly. You might need a small hammer to push it thru. http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo3-1.jpg - Reinstall wheel and enjoy I hope you enjoy the same success as i did. You don't have to use a Kawasaki nut but any castellated nut of the same thread and diameter will be fine. Don't use an aluminium or soft metal nut. Good luck! 6spd, gbrettin, JARblue and 14 others like this.

06-23-2014, 11:26 AM	#2 (permalink)
6spd A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: South Florida Posts: 3,001 Drives: Q50RS Rep Power: 25	Wow thats a pretty novel idea! I hated this noise in my old Z, so this is great to know for the future, since its inevitable. TreeSemdyZee likes this. __________________ -Jay- jonathanjamesphotographer.com

06-23-2014, 08:29 PM	#3 (permalink)
TreeSemdyZee Premium Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Kentuck-IANA Age: 60 Posts: 4,885 Drives: '09 370 & ‘14 Juke Rep Power: 27408	Ticks me off that this was a free fix on the 350, but I paid $160+ on my 370. I'll definitely follow your DIY if/when it happens again. __________________ Borla S-Type \| Motordyne \| Z1 (lots) \| South Bend \| K&N \| Nismo/Nismo S-Tune \| Eibach \| Aerojacket \| Fujimara \| Spl \| ZSpeed Performance \| Kenwood-Infinity-Sound Ordnance \| Whiteline \| Ecutek \| Hotchkis \| Clazzio \| VQ Vortex \|Morimoto XB \|Dynosty Tune 329.64hp 265.73 ft/lb

09-15-2014, 03:15 PM	#4 (permalink)
limited733 Base Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Germany Posts: 13 Drives: 370Z Pearl white Rep Power: 13	OEM spring washers?What is the dimension? Last edited by limited733; 09-24-2014 at 11:33 AM.

10-06-2014, 10:34 AM	#6 (permalink)
juld0zer Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Sydney Posts: 428 Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 139	the spring washer is the big washer that goes beneath the big axle nut. you need two per side because the Kawasaki nut is shorter than the OEM axle nut. the Kawasaki nut is actually physically almost identical in size but since it is the castellated type (nut with inbuilt castle-like top), the castellated slots fall short of the cotter pin hole in the axle. For this to be an effective fix, the slots must have a cotter pin driven thru them, hence the need for an extra washer. JARblue and cthorson910 like this.

10-06-2014, 02:35 PM	#8 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	I'm on it. It's a part you already need... you just get two of them per wheel. FSM - RAX-7 it is number 8 and labeled spring washer. The Nissan part number is 40037-1CA0A. The FSM appears to show a LH and RH, but they both reference the same part number. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \| Last edited by JARblue; 10-06-2014 at 02:40 PM.

10-06-2014, 03:01 PM	#9 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	Ordered two Kawasaki axle nuts earlier today from the local Woods Fun Center. And I ordered four washers and two cotter pins from the Nissan dealer just now. I guess I'll regrease at the same time, so I'll probably just pick up the grease at Woods when I pick up the axle nuts. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

10-06-2014, 05:52 PM	#10 (permalink)
juld0zer Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Sydney Posts: 428 Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 139	yep, that's the correct part number. if parts or cash is scarce, you can reuse the old spring washers like i did. i only ordered enough parts to do the job as per the bulletin/service manual. I didnt realise the Kawasaki nut was shorter til they arrived, so reusing the old spring washers was a quick on the spot solution to get the car buttoned up and off my mate's driveway. finding a castellated nut of OEM grade with identical threads was enough of a challenge so i wasnt going to let a bunch of washers ruin my day good luck guys! just remember to torque the nut to spec, then budge it clockwise with a breaker bar til it reaches the next slot and punch the cotter pin thru it. the cotter pin MUST be very snug so you might have to experiment with how you fit it (rotate, hold, hammer, etc). i highly recommend getting a few extra pins because they aren't as easy to fit properly due to the hub interfering with any direct strikes. It MUST be fitted snugly! Part numbers (including OEM components required for those attempting the official Nissan fix): nissan cotter pin: 40073-0L700 nissan big nut: 40262-1CA0A nissan adjusting cap: 40263-1CA0A nissan spring washers: 40037-1CA0A M77 grease: get it from Honda JARblue, zefaulter, brianx42 and 2 others like this.

10-11-2014, 07:11 AM	#12 (permalink)
juld0zer Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Sydney Posts: 428 Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 139	nope, you'll just need new cotter pins and the extra spring washers. the rest is for folks who want to attempt the official Nissan fix

10-11-2014, 04:23 PM	#13 (permalink)
chops A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: NA Posts: 1,732 Drives: NA Rep Power: 22	thanks! ordered the pins and the extra spring washers. tired of this clicking

10-11-2014, 06:04 PM	#14 (permalink)
Tadpole A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Lockhart, TX Posts: 1,082 Drives: 13 Nissan 370Z A7 Rep Power: 18	I purchased a used set from a bone yard when I had my 350z. No clicking noises afterward. I still have my old ones if anyone might want them. __________________ Takeda TR3009P Short Ram Intakes, Custom Dual Exhaust, X-Piped with 18" Resonators & TopSpeed Axle Backs. EVO-R Led Third Foglight,

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