FIXED: Rear axle click clunk noise

juld0zer

Hey guys,
As some of you will know, i've been battling these clicking axles for a while. I have tried:
- Lazy fix - basically removing the big nut, pushing the axle in as far as possible and injecting a crapload of wheel bearing grease. Then torquing up the nut to spec. Didn't last long at all.

NB: There are 2 torque specs depending on your year model/the way the big nut is secured.

- Official Nissan fix using Molykote M77 grease. Involves removing both axles, cleaning and applying this special grease and replacing all nuts, bolts, cotter pins, caps. This solution didn't last long - i had my hopes up but i also had my doubts that this super-grease could cushion the metallic click to the point where Nissan engineers declared it as eliminated. For those who want to try it but can't find the grease, you can buy it in a tube from your Honda motorcycle dealer. Google "Honda M77 assembly paste".

- Re-torquing the nut an extra 10Nm each time the noise reappeared. I couldn't go on forever retorquing the nut. With the success i was having, i'd be up to 300Nm by now.

*drum roll*
This is the solution that has eliminated the noise for me. The noise used to come back every 4000km, on alternate sides. This solution has worked for the past 9000km (almost 5 months). I am driving the car harder now that i have some mods too. No, it doesn't involve Loctite and it doesn't cost a fortune either.

Here's what you need if you want to have a go:

- Kawasaki axle nut (yes, seriously). Part number 92210-0280. They're about $15 each from your local Kawasaki dealer. The nut is almost identical in dimensions to the OEM flange type nut - you use the same socket too. Kawasaki specifies similar torque specs to what Nissan specifies so there's no doubt the nut can handle it. It's made in Japan so it must be good, right? :P

This particular nut is castellated, so it combines the OEM big nut plus the pathetic OEM 'adjusting cap' (as fitted to 2011 models and other year models) into one nut. Unlike the weak tin steel prongs of the adjusting cap, the 6 slots in the Kawasaki nut won't get crushed over time from the constant banging of the cotter pin when you accelerate/coast. The slots are also quite snug when you use an OEM cotter pin so again, there's almost no possibility of movement.

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo1-1.jpg
http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo2-1.jpg

- 2 OEM spring washers. One for each side. You'll need the washers to make up the gap because the Kawasaki nut, being just as tall as the OEM nut, will not reach the cotter pin hole in the end of the axle. In the OEM setup, the 'adjusting cap' would sit over the nut and its prongs would reach the cotter pin hole.

- New OEM cotter pins. Don't re-use the old ones. You dont want to be forever mucking around with this.

- Torque the nut up to the OEM spec for a 370z with adjusting cap. You'll notice that the castellated slots don't line up with the cotter pin hole in the axle. This is fine. Use your breaker bar and turn the nut until the next available slot lines up with the hole.

How you torque the nut is up to you. Some prefer to mount the wheel and lower the car til the wheel touches the ground. I just put a jack stand underneath the rotor hat and lowered the car til some weight was resting on the jack stand.

- Fit NEW cotter pin and secure it properly. You might need a small hammer to push it thru.

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo3-1.jpg

- Reinstall wheel and enjoy

I hope you enjoy the same success as i did. You don't have to use a Kawasaki nut but any castellated nut of the same thread and diameter will be fine. Don't use an aluminium or soft metal nut.


Good luck!