FIXED: Rear axle click clunk noise

JARblue

Good job on the fix. The stock nut will be fine. I just like the castle nut because I know it won't loosen like the adjusting cap tends to do.

FWIW, the spring washers are intended for one time use and should be replaced. That is why they look deformed.

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AARONHL

Good info, I figured that but I should be ok. Also reused the 6 lock washers on each axle on my g35 for over 100k miles without any issues. Well see how it holds up My g37 had bolts with large diameter heads which is different.

k67p67

Decided to tackle this today. Previously had this problem on my '06 Infiniti G35 coupe. Back then, I took the regrease and rotate 180 degrees route and didn't have any additional issues. So, I'm considering this preventative maintenance. I also like that the axle nut is black (also comes in plain stainless steel). For those like me with aftermarket wheels without center caps, it is more asthetically pleasing than the crappy OEM adjusting cap.

This method seems more durable. I had trouble sourcing the Kawasaki nut so I found an equivalent at ProBolt-USA.com. I did need (3) spring washers per side to position the axle nut correctly to be secured by the cotter pin.

Part Numbers
Nissan spring washer 40037-1CA0A (Qty=6)
Nissan cotter pin 00921-5402A (Qty=2)
Pro-Bolt M24x1.50 Stainless Steel Axle Nut Black LSSNUT24150001Z2BK(Qty=2)

Since I have a '17 and the rear axle click has not yet presented, I didn't feel the need to regrease with the M77 moly paste.


^Stock configuration

^Stock configuration close-up

^Deformation of the flimsy adjusting cap after 25K miles

^Adjusting cap removed

^Comparison of the Pro_Bolt castellated axle nut and the OEM axle nut without adjusting cap

^Comparison of the Pro_Bolt castellated axle nut and the OEM axle nut with adjusting cap. You will see that the castellated nut is shorter and will require more washers

^Necessary parts (catellated axle nuts, spring washers, and cotter pins). The new axle nuts come with a packet of anti-seize

^Comparison of the new axle nut with three washers and the OEM axle nut with one washer

^New axle nut installed, torqued to spec, and secured with new cotter pin

^Finished product

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B&W_Evader

This looks so good I want to go do it even though I don't have the clunk.

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vman12

I just started having the click on my 14 370z at 36k miles. Trying to determine what route to take.
1) Call dealer to see if they will fix for free under the bulletin. Some on the forum said it may be covered under powertrain warranty, others said it isn't. Or even if there is a cost still have dealer fix it. Typically dealer warranties their work for 12 months.
2) Try to grease the axle shaft as per the bulletin
3) Go through the entire process of greasing and installing the kawasaki nut as juld0zer mentioned.

Here is a video of the clicking sound on my Z, rear driver side, when pressing gas pedal or taking foot off gas pedal. Since my z is a manual, i get two clicks as i shift into each gear and have to take foot of gas and apply it again. So does drive me a little crazy.

https://youtu.be/H4Jh3YqF-BQ



attaching the bulletin in case anyone needs it
NTB12-055f CLICKING NOISE FROM FRONT OR REAR AXLE

if i was to do it myself, wonder if i really need to get that molly grease from honda or if i can just use the permatex anti seize lubricant that AARONHL mentioned (i already have that in my garage).

Attached Images

	NTB12-055f 2.jpg (66.6 KB, 38 views)
	NTB12-055f 1.jpg (72.1 KB, 40 views)
	NTB12-055f 3.png (53.6 KB, 24 views)
	NTB12-055f 4.jpg (69.1 KB, 27 views)
	NTB12-055f 5.png (62.0 KB, 23 views)

vman12

Just had this fixed at the dealer yesterday. The noise is gone. Cost be 90 bucks. They just did the bulletin and greased the axles. I asked what if the problem comes back since other folks on the forum mentioned noise coming back after few thousand miles. They said those people must not have used the correct nissan grease when they did it.
I went in hoping that powertrain warranty would cover it. Oh well, at least the clicking is gone, it was driving me crazy with the top down or the windows down. Plus it's loud and everyone can hear it when i'm rolling through the lot.
The mechanic also mentioned that in automatics the clicking only happens once during takeoff because the torque is applied and held. But on manual cars (like mine) the clicking will happen as you apply torque and remove torque (which is what happens when you press gas and let it go). See attached screenshot of dealer invoice.

Attached Images

Nissan 370z 10.14.19 axle grease clicking noise.jpg (24.3 KB, 47 views)

batkogogo

Hello,370z with what force do we tighten the center rear nut (Nm)
in manual *Auto data* gives little power!

ZoomZ

I think most people take it to 80Ft.Lb


From FSM:

• When installing drive shaft, change the drive shaft and wheel hub
and bearing assembly matching marks put at the removal step by
180 degree.
• Use the following torque range for tightening the wheel hub lock
nut.

: 100 – 105 N·m (10 – 11 kg-m, 74 – 77 ft-lb)

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Senna-F1

Hmmm. I think most people notice the axle click when going very slow in transitions from 1st to reverse and back again. I don’t think I’ve seen anyone mention this noise when driving and shifting. So before you get to deep into this, make sure it’s really the axle click and not something else. You should hear it when maneuvering out of parking spaces etc.

DrBacon

I've been having the clicking for the last month or two and I'm curious about the importance of fixing it, what would happen if I continue to ignore it? I'll probably get around to it eventually but if it's just the annoyance of having a click sometimes then I'd rather continue to ignore it for now.

NissanZ34

I understand Nissan changed the part for 2011 and up. My car is a 2010.

So what is best? The Kawasaki nut or the Nissan big nut?

SteveSAS

You can try easy fix which should work as it did for me.

Remove large nut, apply copper or aluminium anti seize grease to thread and nut.
Return nut and torque to correct setting.

Make sure someone is pressing hard on the brakes when torquing nut. Or put wooden block between brake pedal and seat and move seat forward to engage.

Similar issue to cylinder head bolts under torqued without anti seize grease.

This is to fix high pitch click sound when taking off.

My car makes a small rear clunk sound just after coming to a stop. Anyone have any ideas where its coming from?

SteveSAS

Most Nissan dealers a full of ****.
Incorrect grease used???

Rusty

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SennaZ

Digging this up. I just did the job this past weekend as described by the OP. And it...WORKED!
Only thing is, OP said he used 2 washers, others said 3. I used...4. I used two new spring washers, the original, and went to Ace Harware and found a steel flat washer that was 98% perfect fit.

When greasing it, i knocked axle in just so that the tip of it was flush with the hub centric ring of the hub, so about maybe an inch in, laid some mobil 1 synthetic grease my buddy had in there with a mini brush and then the new nut pulled the axles back out.

i set torque wrench to 80 (factory) to see where'd that get me and the hole for cotter pin was about almost halfway to the next slot. I set torque wrench to a much higher number for curiosity to see if it would click by time i got to the next slot. It lined perfectly when it clicked at about 130 foot pounds. Funny how turning it a maybe a centimeter required a 50% increase in torque.

The old nut i got off with an impact gun and it put up less of a fight than my wheel nuts. Not on there very tight at all.

In fact, i'm certain the grease did next to nothing and the real issue was getting that axle nut to an acceptable torque rating.

My friend was dumbfounded when i told him factory rating was only 75 or 80 pounds as he said my 300zx was like 180 I'm pretty sure and his e46 m3 was over 200. So going up to 130 really shouldn't be an issue. Cotter pin fit very nicely in the castellated slot. My old adjusting cap wasn't destroyed, but it was widened at where the cotter pin was.

My car had the clicking bad. 140k miles. Every single pull away or lifting off accelerator in 4th gear and lower resulted in a click. Car drives smoother now, like it was actually causing extraneous lash besides just a sound.

Very appreciative of the OPs post for this idea as I'm certain it won't ever come back now with a well designed nut on there and torque spec that almost makes sense.