lol folks it's 100-105Nm for cars with spring washer and beer cap or 180-185Nm for what i assume is cars with just the nut and cotter pin.

It's been a while but i think i used 185Nm and then a big breaker bar to bump the new Kawasaki castellated nut onto the next slot for the cotter pin to go thru.

I know I don't have the socket in my tool box for this nut. So before I pull it apart can someone tell me what size socket is needed.
Thanks

So I answer my own question after fixing my issues with the rear frame bushing and axle clicking. The socket for the axle nuts are 32mm, this is both for the factory nuts and the upgrade.

This would have been a good heads up for me today haha. got the job done and found that the right rear nut was loose enough for me to remove the stock nut without the use of a breaker bar :eek:

The TSB. Torque for axle nut not given.

Anyone know the Torque spec for the 370z? Here is how it changed for the 350z

From Service Manual to the TSB.

Also, some confusion on which cotter pin to use. Make sure you get the right one!

The one from the TSB and mentioned in this thread, which isn't a match for my '14 Nismo, but is a match for say a 2010 Base 370z...

Nissan Part No.: 40073-0L700
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...073-0l700.html

Or the one that is a match for my '14 Nismo...

Nissan Part No.: 00921-5402A
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...921-5402a.html

Which one are y'all using, and which Z do you have?

I torqued mine to 85 ft-lbs. It's been three years since I did the fix, and I've had no issues at all on my 2011. With the cotter pin situated properly, the torque spec really shouldn't matter as long as the nut is tightened down sufficiently (i.e. not loose).

FIXED: Rear axle click clunk noise
 

Got a screen shot of the ESM referenced in the TSB. It’s still shows 74-77 ft-lbs for the axel nut. Not sure what years or if it matters but I told them to look it up for my 2014 Nismo. Main point is it doesn’t seem to have changed with the TSB. So, probably should use whatever your manual shows.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0422f4e1d9.jpg


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Since I was also doing diff bushings, I had to remove the axels. If you remove them the manual says not to reuse bolts and nuts on the axel and propeller shaft. I used all new hardware and they were covered in red. Some form of loctite I assume. Just FYI.

Thanks @juld0zer for this fix. Just performed this on my Aussie 2011 370z, clicking is gone at the moment, but I'll report back after some kms travelled.

For other Aussies if you're having trouble sourcing parts (My dealer wouldn't sell me any): Got the Kawasaki Castle Nuts from Partzilla.com for $AU20 delivered

I required two additional spring washers per side (for a total of 6, 2 new and the origina 1 OEM). Part number is #400371CA0A for the spring washers, bought at $3.80 each from Amayama. Bit pricey, but couldn't find many sources.

The new cotter pins part number is #400730L700, I bought 4 of them at $1.72 each also from Amayama (Just as well cos the first pin I bent improperly). Total delivered for the washers and cotter pins was AU$31.08

Other notes: Easy to install even for a ham fisted oaf like myself - I had to tighten to spec, then use a breaker bar to tighten the Kawasaki nut a little bit over to allow the cotter pin to sit correctly

So for those of you who brought it to the dealer to have it re-greased, how long did that last before the click came back?

depending on ur issues re-greasing will not fix the issue, it simply muffles the noise. I had to have a few axle parts re-torque & my bushing/subframe replaced until my noise went away, warranty paid

i had the need for a 32mm 6 pt 1/2 inch drive socket for a bike project and a friend suggested i get a 1 1/4 inch impact socket from home depot online delivered to the store for $5 worked great

and the proper torque is 140 foot lbs for the non Nissan nut