Says who?

185Nm=140 foot lbs my torque wrench is only indexed in ft lbs

I know how to convert units of measure. Where are you getting your information from that says the nut requires that amount of torque? If you look at my posts right above yours, same page, you'll see I looked very carefully into what the proper torque rating should be. In the end, I ended up with a screenshot taken at a Nissan Dealership who had access to the Electronic Service Manual last updated Nov 2016.

says the op on top of page 8 185 nm

What size threads are on the axle ends?

Are the part numbers the same for 2014?

2014:
https://parts.nissanusa.com/nissanpa...7717&siteid=14

2011:
https://parts.nissanusa.com/nissanpa...3432&siteid=14

I can't really spot the difference in parts. If anyone can clarify, that would be great.

2014 parts needed to fix this problem:

Kawasaki Axle Nut Part number (2) 92210-0280
OEM Spring Washer: (2) 43037 & (2) 43037+A
Cotter Pins: (1) 43262A & (1) 43262AA

Are the part numbers correct? One of the guys here mentioned the spring part number is 40037-1CA0A but I can't find this part. I wonder if it was a typo from 40037 to 43037??

I am fairly confident that I fixed the axle clicking issue without the need for a new aftermarket nut or washer. I did the following on my older G35 when I replaced the wheel bearings (because there was a TSB to put moly grease on the axle flange) and never had one axle click with the car. As soon as I got my G37 I noticed the clicking daily.

So today I decided to take the axles out...cleaned up the splines and faces, grease up the axle, hub, and splines. When I put everything back on, I tightened the oem axle nut very tight. I used a steel pipe and breaker bar to really get on the nut. I don't have a ftlbs bar that goes over 75 but I can tell it is way over the FSM setting of like 80lbs, probably somewhere over 120 (did it while the car was on the ground with the wheel center cap off). The axle nuts came off too easy when I took them off the first time.

I took the whip for a quick drive and I didn't hear one click. It was just clicking constantly yesterday so I feel something I did worked !!

I realize most of you guys have newer Zs/Gs and can't touch the car while its under warranty...but maybe you can give it a try?

Here are the pictures: you can get this permatex anti seize at autozone and many other stores. I use it on pretty much ever bolt on my car too
Also the pictures don't show the inner side of the wheel hub, I lathered that up with anti seize too, making sure I got the face of it where the axle rests. And the inside hub splines too.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon...._AC_SS350_.jpg

/\ this is correct. The hubs needs cleaning as well.

Yes I basically cleaned the whole setup in an out. BOTH sides of the wheel hub and splines, plus the splines and flange on the axle itself. One of the axles had some black grime in the splines so I wire brushed it to clean metal first.

Not sure if this matters or not...the only thing I am thinking about is the oem washer that goes on before the axle nut. I noticed the washers on both sides were not flat, like the hub deformed them. So when I put everything back on each side, the washers were put so they looked like this on the hub []> if that makes sense. To kinda act as like a lock washer that gets crushed and holds the nut. Based on the wear stains on the washers, I think I flipped the washers the opposite way of how they were before I took them off. I don't remember how the washers were on my G35 when I did this year ago with that car.

Good job on the fix. The stock nut will be fine. I just like the castle nut because I know it won't loosen like the adjusting cap tends to do.

FWIW, the spring washers are intended for one time use and should be replaced. That is why they look deformed.

Good info, I figured that but I should be ok. Also reused the 6 lock washers on each axle on my g35 for over 100k miles without any issues. Well see how it holds up My g37 had bolts with large diameter heads which is different.

Decided to tackle this today. Previously had this problem on my '06 Infiniti G35 coupe. Back then, I took the regrease and rotate 180 degrees route and didn't have any additional issues. So, I'm considering this preventative maintenance. I also like that the axle nut is black (also comes in plain stainless steel). For those like me with aftermarket wheels without center caps, it is more asthetically pleasing than the crappy OEM adjusting cap.

This method seems more durable. I had trouble sourcing the Kawasaki nut so I found an equivalent at ProBolt-USA.com. I did need (3) spring washers per side to position the axle nut correctly to be secured by the cotter pin.

Part Numbers
Nissan spring washer 40037-1CA0A (Qty=6)
Nissan cotter pin 00921-5402A (Qty=2)
Pro-Bolt M24x1.50 Stainless Steel Axle Nut Black LSSNUT24150001Z2BK(Qty=2)

Since I have a '17 and the rear axle click has not yet presented, I didn't feel the need to regrease with the M77 moly paste.

https://i.imgur.com/N8kzyYA.jpg
^Stock configuration
https://i.imgur.com/NwKTgLS.jpg
^Stock configuration close-up
https://i.imgur.com/7y12NPo.jpg
^Deformation of the flimsy adjusting cap after 25K miles
https://i.imgur.com/1Ilgvkg.jpg
^Adjusting cap removed
https://i.imgur.com/A3fCpa2.jpg
^Comparison of the Pro_Bolt castellated axle nut and the OEM axle nut without adjusting cap
https://i.imgur.com/pJQMZrX.jpg
^Comparison of the Pro_Bolt castellated axle nut and the OEM axle nut with adjusting cap. You will see that the castellated nut is shorter and will require more washers
https://i.imgur.com/hCEeK4f.jpg
^Necessary parts (catellated axle nuts, spring washers, and cotter pins). The new axle nuts come with a packet of anti-seize
https://i.imgur.com/p8o6IBJ.jpg
^Comparison of the new axle nut with three washers and the OEM axle nut with one washer
https://i.imgur.com/13kHQwZ.jpg
^New axle nut installed, torqued to spec, and secured with new cotter pin
https://i.imgur.com/JFqjEpb.jpg
^Finished product

This looks so good I want to go do it even though I don't have the clunk. :tup:

I just started having the click on my 14 370z at 36k miles. Trying to determine what route to take.
1) Call dealer to see if they will fix for free under the bulletin. Some on the forum said it may be covered under powertrain warranty, others said it isn't. Or even if there is a cost still have dealer fix it. Typically dealer warranties their work for 12 months.
2) Try to grease the axle shaft as per the bulletin
3) Go through the entire process of greasing and installing the kawasaki nut as juld0zer mentioned.

Here is a video of the clicking sound on my Z, rear driver side, when pressing gas pedal or taking foot off gas pedal. Since my z is a manual, i get two clicks as i shift into each gear and have to take foot of gas and apply it again. So does drive me a little crazy.

https://youtu.be/H4Jh3YqF-BQ



attaching the bulletin in case anyone needs it
NTB12-055f CLICKING NOISE FROM FRONT OR REAR AXLE

if i was to do it myself, wonder if i really need to get that molly grease from honda or if i can just use the permatex anti seize lubricant that AARONHL mentioned (i already have that in my garage).

Hmmm. I think most people notice the axle click when going very slow in transitions from 1st to reverse and back again. I don’t think I’ve seen anyone mention this noise when driving and shifting. So before you get to deep into this, make sure it’s really the axle click and not something else. You should hear it when maneuvering out of parking spaces etc.

I've been having the clicking for the last month or two and I'm curious about the importance of fixing it, what would happen if I continue to ignore it? I'll probably get around to it eventually but if it's just the annoyance of having a click sometimes then I'd rather continue to ignore it for now.

You can try easy fix which should work as it did for me.

Remove large nut, apply copper or aluminium anti seize grease to thread and nut.
Return nut and torque to correct setting.

Make sure someone is pressing hard on the brakes when torquing nut. Or put wooden block between brake pedal and seat and move seat forward to engage.

Similar issue to cylinder head bolts under torqued without anti seize grease.

This is to fix high pitch click sound when taking off.

My car makes a small rear clunk sound just after coming to a stop. Anyone have any ideas where its coming from?

Just had this fixed at the dealer yesterday. The noise is gone. Cost be 90 bucks. They just did the bulletin and greased the axles. I asked what if the problem comes back since other folks on the forum mentioned noise coming back after few thousand miles. They said those people must not have used the correct nissan grease when they did it.
I went in hoping that powertrain warranty would cover it. Oh well, at least the clicking is gone, it was driving me crazy with the top down or the windows down. Plus it's loud and everyone can hear it when i'm rolling through the lot.
The mechanic also mentioned that in automatics the clicking only happens once during takeoff because the torque is applied and held. But on manual cars (like mine) the clicking will happen as you apply torque and remove torque (which is what happens when you press gas and let it go). See attached screenshot of dealer invoice.

Most Nissan dealers a full of ****.
Incorrect grease used???

:iagree:

Digging this up. I just did the job this past weekend as described by the OP. And it...WORKED!
Only thing is, OP said he used 2 washers, others said 3. I used...4. I used two new spring washers, the original, and went to Ace Harware and found a steel flat washer that was 98% perfect fit.

When greasing it, i knocked axle in just so that the tip of it was flush with the hub centric ring of the hub, so about maybe an inch in, laid some mobil 1 synthetic grease my buddy had in there with a mini brush and then the new nut pulled the axles back out.

i set torque wrench to 80 (factory) to see where'd that get me and the hole for cotter pin was about almost halfway to the next slot. I set torque wrench to a much higher number for curiosity to see if it would click by time i got to the next slot. It lined perfectly when it clicked at about 130 foot pounds. Funny how turning it a maybe a centimeter required a 50% increase in torque.

The old nut i got off with an impact gun and it put up less of a fight than my wheel nuts. Not on there very tight at all.

In fact, i'm certain the grease did next to nothing and the real issue was getting that axle nut to an acceptable torque rating.

My friend was dumbfounded when i told him factory rating was only 75 or 80 pounds as he said my 300zx was like 180 I'm pretty sure and his e46 m3 was over 200. So going up to 130 really shouldn't be an issue. Cotter pin fit very nicely in the castellated slot. My old adjusting cap wasn't destroyed, but it was widened at where the cotter pin was.

My car had the clicking bad. 140k miles. Every single pull away or lifting off accelerator in 4th gear and lower resulted in a click. Car drives smoother now, like it was actually causing extraneous lash besides just a sound.

Very appreciative of the OPs post for this idea as I'm certain it won't ever come back now with a well designed nut on there and torque spec that almost makes sense.

Have to carry this out on my Z once the quarantine is over.

Wanted to ask, could I use Permatex Copper anti-sieze instead of the Moly 77 or any other grease? Also when applying the lubrication, is it okay if apply it on the bolt on which the castle nut tightens onto or would that mess with torque specs etc?

I would obviously grease the splines of the axles when the nut is removed, just wanted everyones 2cents, cheers.

There is different torque spec's. A Dry spec, and a Wet spec. About 95% of the time. It's a Dry spec that gets used. A Dry spec is no grease, oil, or any lube is used. A Wet spec is where some type of lubricant is used. It will spec what type of lube and where area it is applied to. It could be on the threads only, or under the head of the or washer.

So, read the manual.

I understand Nissan changed the part for 2011 and up. My car is a 2010.

So what is best? The Kawasaki nut or the Nissan big nut?

I just finished taking care of the CSC issue on my car and literally a week later I start hearing the clicking noise lol

Someone else asked what exactly is the impact of this issue/ what happens if you don't get it fixed (other than the annoying click)? Bringing this up because it was never answered, at least not that I saw.

I don't have any of the right tools to fix this issue and I live in an apartment, so it's difficult for me to work something like this. I refuse to go to a Nissan dealership especially if they are charging to fix this.

I just did the change per the information that was given here. I got the Kawasaki axle nuts and the rest the material from Nissan. I did not re use the washer that was already behind the original nut, I just bought three new washers (six total) for the swap.

I could not push my axles in to grease the spline, I don't know why but whatever, I still applied the Permatex copper anti-sieze lubricant in there.

For now the clicking is not there, let's see if it comes back or not. I torqued the new axle nuts to 85lbs, then put the cotter pin in.

If you can't do it on your own, ask your buddies if they can help. Which man WOULDN'T enjoy working on a Z? Pay them in beers and Mcdonald's for lunch/dinner. Done.

For the record, I have put more miles on the car since the fix than it had before the clicking issue arose. No issues since and upon recent inspection every still looks to be extremely secure after about 60K miles.

Hey JB, thanks for the update, it is greatly appreciated. I hope all is well with the car and it stays that way.

Another question: is this issue specific to any location in terms of left/right or rear/front? Seems like most people who experience this issue have the clicking coming from the rear. In my case, the clicking seems to be coming from the left rear. Just curious to know. Thanks.

Only from the rear (drive wheels).

This was such an easy fix it's not even funny. I couldn't find the stupid recommended grease so I just used Valvoline Moly grease that was less than $6 a large tube at Advanced Auto Parts. The only thing that was somewhat pricey was the nut from Nissan ($14 and some cents per nut), and the caps and washers were somewhere a little over $4 each I believe. I got the cotter pins from them for free. I didn't remove the anxles or anything. I used a super small and thin flat head screwdriver to apply the grease and fit it and push it into the splines since i didn't have anything small and thin enough to apply it. It worked!

agreed! Mine was the right side but I'll be doing the left too since I already did one side and bought parts for both.

Lol so i was scrolling through the site looking at threads that have had recent posts, and i come across this thread. upon reading, this sounds exactly like an issue im having that i only legit noticed last week. well...... time for a diy :P

If you just used the stock nut and adjusting cap from Nissan, you may encounter the same issue down the road :twocents:

But hey, an easy fix is an easy fix :tup:

99% of dealers are retarded. Never will take accountability for their incompetence. I wonder how much crap they do wrong to peoples car without them knowing.

It has nothing to do with the grease, nothing at all. Yes greasing is apart of the process but it is a SMALL part of it. You need a properaxle nut from Kawasaki and you need to get rid of that stupid cheap crap bottle cap retainer that you slip the cotter pin through.

I swear. Nissan needs to grow a pair. CSC, clicks, engine cooling etc. If the new Z has small issues like this I doubt Nissan will fix them if they could not do it for this Z for the past 10 years. If that's the case I rather pull the trigger on a new Supra. Oh who am I kidding. . . I'd grab the new Z anyways and continue to bitch about it on this forum with you lot ;)

Literally takes 40 mins to do. Get the Kawasaki Axle nuts from "Snow, City Marine" in Scarborough (call them first), the part numbers are listed in this thread already in the beginning. I also recommend getting SIX new washers (three per each side that go behind the axle nut), do not re use the old washers that are behind the original nut when you take it off.

Cotter pins? Get four, in case you mess one them up or do not like how you bent it to retain the nut. Make sure when you torque the nut you do 85lbs, you may have to torque it more to get the holes to align, but that's alright. Once aligned, slip the cotter pin in and use a hammer to bonk the top to get it down as much as possible THEN bend long portion of the pin.

I used the e-brake to lock the rear wheels, but make sure you secure the front wheels with a chauk. If you do not want to torque in the "air" then what you should do is remove the centre cap from the rear tires, mount them, lug nuts on, put the car down, then torque and then jack the car back up, remove wheels and slip in the cotter pins. Though torquing it to 85lbs in the air was no issue.

My gf at the time always said I spend to much time on the car and that I was obsessed with it. I'm a stickler for doing things rights and treating everything I own with respect because ultimately its a reflection of who I am as a person. Working on my car is a stress reliever and any woman who complains and criticizes you about your hobbies should be shown one thing and one thing only and that's the door.

Anyone in the DMV area willing to lend me a hand to correct this issue? Of course I will reward your time...and I'm COVID free :) Please let me know. Thanks!

I found a clear, quick video showing how to get this done. Can anyone who's done this repair confirm if this video is a good representation of what is needed to be done for the permanent fix outlined in OP's text post?

This is the same video I sent to my mechanic today and he said it was pretty straight forward. He has all the necessary materials and obviously the proper equipment, but I am supplying the Kawasaki nuts. Estimate is $50 per tire. Not bad considering I don't have any of the proper equipment/tools. I'm just a little worried because I've read some people have had the issue come back even going thru with this fix. I guess there's only one way to find out.

Affirmative. This is what I used as a reference. You will need a 32MM impact socket from Princess Auto to remove the axle nut.

Also like I said, get six new washers, he got four new ones and used the old washers to make it three per side. That's a no no in my book.

He was able to push his axle in, I was not, either I was to much of a pussy to do so or something else was going on, trust me I used a hammer and everything to get them to push back. Whatever.