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Or to sum that up just because on your car and a lot of cars it was the axles doesn't mean it is always the axles |
Nope the clicking when you accelerate is the axles. My 350z did this and I replaced and purchased them at a boneyard. Clicking was gone after that. This is the first place to troubleshoot, then check the rest of the drive train next
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Just went to the dealership here in Charlotte. Told them the car was clicking from both axles. The service manager told me he'd have the techs take a look and that generally a going-over was $99. He had me wait in the waiting room. About an hour later, he found me, said they had fixed the problem by greasing both axles and found TSB NTB12-055d for the problem. No charge (including the $99 I was originally quoted). Walked out with no money spent and a click-less car. Attached is a picture of the invoice. The manager said this should be covered under the 6-year 60,000-mi warranty which as of today's date covers all 370Z's. This should be a free fix if you are reading this.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...71c153f9603888 |
I'm glad its working out for some of you guys. Unfortunately, not all dealers are the same...
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Just noticed axles or suspension are clicking when turing tight or going over bumps now. Good god is it loud it makes it sound like its going to come apart on me. I have an 09 so should probably call them asap.
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Sooo google search turns up nothing any idea if theres any TSB posted anywhere online thats legit? Theres one website that wants you to pay to see it lol forget that.
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2011 Nissan 370Z Coupe OEM Parts - Nissan USA eStore Spring washer is 40037-1CA0A Cotter pin is 40073-0L700 |
Dealer would not cover the repair due to its "re-apply grease" not repair of the TSB. come back with same TSB number: NTB12 - 055d. going to just fix it myself with the OP method.
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I checked with 3 dealers around town. They just got quiet when I asked why it wasn't listed as a maintenance item. One said they would cover it within 12K miles, and the other two said within 36K miles. The dealer that told me 12K miles said it would cost nearly $300 :eek: The other two quoted around $130, but I just bought the parts for $20 and a big tube of moly paste from Honda for $15.
Does anyone know what type of grease I should use in lieu of the Nissan grease per the FSM page attached? Grease 1 is the Nissan grease, and grease 2 is the moly paste. Nissan dealer wouldn't sell me either one since they only have huge containers of them for the techs to use. |
you could probably use a high grade CV joint grease in lieu of the Nissan grease. I doubt the dealers use the genuine grease anyway - because like motor oil, if there's nothing special about the Nissan grease (eg like the BMW E46 M3 you can't just use any diff oil meeting the viscosity spec. The genuine oil has extra friction modifiers and it helps quieten the noise by a lot) then they can get away with a grease from their lube supplier that suits the application. For split boots they'd probably just replace the CV shaft as a whole unit.
Are your boots split? |
Here in aussie-land, the local dealers had no clue what the M77 paste was. They just said to use wheel bearing grease. Then a few dealers said that the service manual i have only applies to USA models. sigh... you guys should feel lucky!
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Boots looked good last inspection a few months ago. Hoping I won't need the grease at all. Looks like I can get some at the chain auto stores though.
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no need to disturb them then ;)
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yep, generally the boot will be torn, split, or the clamps have come loose allowing the boot to slide off. Essentially, it's anything that will cause debris contamination of the grease and mechanism inside. If you can't see grease on the exterior of the boots then i wouldnt disturb the boots. Avoid scuffing them and damaging them when working nearby and you'll be fine
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http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...3d2ca2c164.jpg
Besides the rust, would you consider this damaged? There is way too much rust, breaks my heart looking at it :( |
your boots look fine mate. those rusty components are rusty on mine too. no issue :) remember to mark the original installation position then rotate 180 degrees from the mark before refitting - if you want to follow the service manual to a T
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Just had a Talk with the Nissan corporate, as TSB like this should be covered under power train warranty, but still refuse to do anything with it. Thinking just live with it or fix it next spring.:mad:
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It's simple fix just takes time. Not even sure if it's 100% necessary
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A guy here in Texas drove over 30K miles with the axle click. He has since sold his Z, but he never had any problems related to it.
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This should be place under the schedule maintenance to re-apply grease since nothing is broken. and there known way to resolve the problem. |
finally had time to do this today. ran into a roadblock kind of. the nut doesnt really reach the castellated portion with 2 spring washers. had to add a 3rd just to get it high enough for the cotter pin to grab. heres a pic with 2 spring washers under the kawasaki nut. need to order 2 more spring washers for the other side now :(
http://i.imgur.com/Z8pVPpv.jpg?1 |
hmmm that's a bit odd. i actually had to tighten mine down a bit more to get the hole in the axle to line up with a slot. Sorry for the troubles! was the Kawasaki nut the same height as the OEM nut?
Is your OEM setup with the beer cap thing over the nut with a wide base (ie. flange nut) or just a plain standard nut with no cap? |
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can you guys post a pic of the original nut with adjusting cap side by side with the kawasaki nut sitting on top of two spring washers? i'm starting to think there might be a variation in the position of the hole drilled thru the axles.
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I actually reused the existing single washer that was there and then used two new spring washers on each side. So there were three used on each side. The cotter pin ended up sideways to make sure there was no play.
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neither the OEM nor the Kawasaki nuts are lock nuts afaik. That's why the cotter pin is there - to prevent the nut coming completely off. However in the 2011 model, the flange nut is covered by a castellated flimsy 'adjusting cap' which is supposed to prevent almost any free movement of the nut beneath. Because it is so flimsy, the castellated slots are easily defeated and the cap itself is a loose fit over the nut. Early models had just the plain hex nut with a cotter pin several millimetres away from the top of the nut. In this configuration, the torque spec is higher than the 2011 model with adjusting cap and flange nut.
because of the adjusting cap's flimsy construction, loose fit and the lax fit of the cotter pin in the axle hole, there is so much potential for it to eventually work loose and cause the clicking noise. I imagine the splines in the hub and axle are also quite a loose fit and hence the constant to/fro rotational forces work like an impact wrench to break the nut loose. The low torque spec for the flange nut (less than wheel nut torque) is surprising. For the adjusting cap to be effective, the potential movement it is designed to restrict/prevent must be only a few degrees - which means the nut it is trying to hold must be f'ing tight to begin with. But it isnt. Anyway, back to your question - dont use any impact tools to tighten these nuts. If you cant tighten it to spec then get a larger breaker bar onto it. The reason the Kawasaki nut worked for me is because it is both tight (tad tighter than factory spec) and unable to move (castellated slots are barely big enough for the cotter pin to fit thru so it's a very snug fit. Again, i apologise for any inconvenience i have caused due to me not accounting for various OEM configurations. I hope that you can all resolve this issue successfully - please post up any relevant pics so future visitors may gain from our collective experiences |
juld0zer, thank you for presenting this solution. It worked out fine for me with only minor changes. In the future, I would probably get 4 new washers for each side to be safe. They're actually kind of expensive for washers, but they're still only a couple bucks each.
Also, I should clarify that my clicking was caused by a lack of moly grease on the axle. My adjusting cap was quite tight and not the cause. For me the Kawasaki nut was just a preventative measure to keep it from happening in the future. |
for the record, you can probably use flat fender washers and just buy 2 new spring washers (one for each side, to go on after you stack some fender washers). since i believe the way the spring washer works is that it provides tension against the nut to keep the nut from getting loose. stacking 3 spring washers on top probably keeps this from happening.
problem is finding a fender washer with an inside diameter big enough to fit over the axle, and outside diameter small enough to fit into the hole for the hub though. i'm taking apart mine tonight to see if i can find fender washers at grainger that will fit before i order 2 more spring washers. not like the car is going anywhere anyway...its been raining for a week or two now :( |
If you are able to take the spring washer to Grainger, I guarantee they can find you something that will work. And I agree, it is probably appropriate to only use one spring washer per side.
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https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/33821 |
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