Nissan 370Z Forum

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-   -   FIXED: Rear axle click clunk noise (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/92346-fixed-rear-axle-click-clunk-noise.html)

240se 10-20-2014 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juld0zer (Post 2998204)
Yep, there is a TSB and the 370z is not the only Nissan affected. Any Nissan with CV joint axles has a chance of clicking.

Has anyone been able to get a copy of the TSB or the TSB number other than the one that just mentions the 350Z?

1slow370 10-20-2014 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bhaukei (Post 3002725)
OKAY, LISTEN GUYS. i have the same problem about the clicking noise on my 2010 40th Z, i took it to the dealership, they fixed it, cost is 130 dollars (Im in canada). So it is both Axle/hub/bearing needs lubrication. And yes They said this is a TSB only for 3 years 60000km, if not , then thats a maintenance. A lot saying the noise might come back, but still i give the dealership a shot, hopefully it won't come back.

DON'T LET ANY OTHER MEMBER FOOL YOU, IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH CALIPER, TRANSMISSION AND WHATEVER THEY SAID. IF YOU HEAR CLICKING WHEN YOU SLOWING DOWN THE CAR / START TO DRIVE/ REVERSE. THEN THATS A AXLE THING.

Yeah I'm sorry but It can be any of those things, they all eventually will make the same sort of noise, that is why your mechanic or dealer needs to be able to figure out exactly which one it is so they don't waste your money fixing something that isn't broken, the axle grease is just one of the more common problems. Don't let your dealer fool you just because something doesn't usually break doesn't mean it won't.

Or to sum that up just because on your car and a lot of cars it was the axles doesn't mean it is always the axles

Tadpole 10-20-2014 03:29 PM

Nope the clicking when you accelerate is the axles. My 350z did this and I replaced and purchased them at a boneyard. Clicking was gone after that. This is the first place to troubleshoot, then check the rest of the drive train next

Read T 10-28-2014 02:07 PM

Just went to the dealership here in Charlotte. Told them the car was clicking from both axles. The service manager told me he'd have the techs take a look and that generally a going-over was $99. He had me wait in the waiting room. About an hour later, he found me, said they had fixed the problem by greasing both axles and found TSB NTB12-055d for the problem. No charge (including the $99 I was originally quoted). Walked out with no money spent and a click-less car. Attached is a picture of the invoice. The manager said this should be covered under the 6-year 60,000-mi warranty which as of today's date covers all 370Z's. This should be a free fix if you are reading this.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...71c153f9603888

JARblue 10-28-2014 04:14 PM

I'm glad its working out for some of you guys. Unfortunately, not all dealers are the same...

shaun66 10-28-2014 04:44 PM

Just noticed axles or suspension are clicking when turing tight or going over bumps now. Good god is it loud it makes it sound like its going to come apart on me. I have an 09 so should probably call them asap.

shaun66 10-28-2014 04:55 PM

Sooo google search turns up nothing any idea if theres any TSB posted anywhere online thats legit? Theres one website that wants you to pay to see it lol forget that.

Read T 10-28-2014 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shaun66 (Post 3015076)
Sooo google search turns up nothing any idea if theres any TSB posted anywhere online thats legit? Theres one website that wants you to pay to see it lol forget that.

I couldn't find one (nor could my dealer) Specific for the 370z. The 350Z's I found as well as the quest and versa. The dealer I went to just listed the quest's (See my post 4 earlier).

zefaulter 11-07-2014 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juld0zer (Post 2870070)
Hey guys,
As some of you will know, i've been battling these clicking axles for a while. I have tried:
- Lazy fix - basically removing the big nut, pushing the axle in as far as possible and injecting a crapload of wheel bearing grease. Then torquing up the nut to spec. Didn't last long at all.

NB: There are 2 torque specs depending on your year model/the way the big nut is secured.

- Official Nissan fix using Molykote M77 grease. Involves removing both axles, cleaning and applying this special grease and replacing all nuts, bolts, cotter pins, caps. This solution didn't last long - i had my hopes up but i also had my doubts that this super-grease could cushion the metallic click to the point where Nissan engineers declared it as eliminated. For those who want to try it but can't find the grease, you can buy it in a tube from your Honda motorcycle dealer. Google "Honda M77 assembly paste".

- Re-torquing the nut an extra 10Nm each time the noise reappeared. I couldn't go on forever retorquing the nut. With the success i was having, i'd be up to 300Nm by now.

*drum roll*
This is the solution that has eliminated the noise for me. The noise used to come back every 4000km, on alternate sides. This solution has worked for the past 9000km (almost 5 months). I am driving the car harder now that i have some mods too. No, it doesn't involve Loctite and it doesn't cost a fortune either.

Here's what you need if you want to have a go:

- Kawasaki axle nut (yes, seriously). Part number 92210-0280. They're about $15 each from your local Kawasaki dealer. The nut is almost identical in dimensions to the OEM flange type nut - you use the same socket too. Kawasaki specifies similar torque specs to what Nissan specifies so there's no doubt the nut can handle it. It's made in Japan so it must be good, right? :P

This particular nut is castellated, so it combines the OEM big nut plus the pathetic OEM 'adjusting cap' (as fitted to 2011 models and other year models) into one nut. Unlike the weak tin steel prongs of the adjusting cap, the 6 slots in the Kawasaki nut won't get crushed over time from the constant banging of the cotter pin when you accelerate/coast. The slots are also quite snug when you use an OEM cotter pin so again, there's almost no possibility of movement.

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo1-1.jpg
http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo2-1.jpg

- 2 OEM spring washers. One for each side. You'll need the washers to make up the gap because the Kawasaki nut, being just as tall as the OEM nut, will not reach the cotter pin hole in the end of the axle. In the OEM setup, the 'adjusting cap' would sit over the nut and its prongs would reach the cotter pin hole.

- New OEM cotter pins. Don't re-use the old ones. You dont want to be forever mucking around with this.

- Torque the nut up to the OEM spec for a 370z with adjusting cap. You'll notice that the castellated slots don't line up with the cotter pin hole in the axle. This is fine. Use your breaker bar and turn the nut until the next available slot lines up with the hole.

How you torque the nut is up to you. Some prefer to mount the wheel and lower the car til the wheel touches the ground. I just put a jack stand underneath the rotor hat and lowered the car til some weight was resting on the jack stand.

- Fit NEW cotter pin and secure it properly. You might need a small hammer to push it thru.

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo3-1.jpg

- Reinstall wheel and enjoy :)

I hope you enjoy the same success as i did. You don't have to use a Kawasaki nut but any castellated nut of the same thread and diameter will be fine. Don't use an aluminium or soft metal nut.


Good luck!

Dealer said it's not covered under warranty. Anyone has part list I can give my nissan parts guy?

JARblue 11-07-2014 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zefaulter (Post 3025335)
Dealer said it's not covered under warranty. Anyone has part list I can give my nissan parts guy?

http://parts.nissanusa.com/nissanIma...4/J43000JR.jpg

2011 Nissan 370Z Coupe OEM Parts - Nissan USA eStore

Spring washer is 40037-1CA0A
Cotter pin is 40073-0L700

Guavazo 11-20-2014 08:14 AM

Dealer would not cover the repair due to its "re-apply grease" not repair of the TSB. come back with same TSB number: NTB12 - 055d. going to just fix it myself with the OP method.

Read T 11-20-2014 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guavazo (Post 3035494)
Dealer would not cover the repair due to its "re-apply grease" not repair of the TSB. come back with same TSB number: NTB12 - 055d. going to just fix it myself with the OP method.

That's too bad. It's not listed in "maintenance" of the FSM and should be a warrantied issue (as it is with the 350Z, Quest, sedans, and my 370z). Might be worth checking at another dealership before you get your hands too greasy.

JARblue 11-20-2014 08:44 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I checked with 3 dealers around town. They just got quiet when I asked why it wasn't listed as a maintenance item. One said they would cover it within 12K miles, and the other two said within 36K miles. The dealer that told me 12K miles said it would cost nearly $300 :eek: The other two quoted around $130, but I just bought the parts for $20 and a big tube of moly paste from Honda for $15.

Does anyone know what type of grease I should use in lieu of the Nissan grease per the FSM page attached? Grease 1 is the Nissan grease, and grease 2 is the moly paste. Nissan dealer wouldn't sell me either one since they only have huge containers of them for the techs to use.

juld0zer 11-20-2014 11:02 AM

you could probably use a high grade CV joint grease in lieu of the Nissan grease. I doubt the dealers use the genuine grease anyway - because like motor oil, if there's nothing special about the Nissan grease (eg like the BMW E46 M3 you can't just use any diff oil meeting the viscosity spec. The genuine oil has extra friction modifiers and it helps quieten the noise by a lot) then they can get away with a grease from their lube supplier that suits the application. For split boots they'd probably just replace the CV shaft as a whole unit.

Are your boots split?

juld0zer 11-20-2014 11:03 AM

Here in aussie-land, the local dealers had no clue what the M77 paste was. They just said to use wheel bearing grease. Then a few dealers said that the service manual i have only applies to USA models. sigh... you guys should feel lucky!

JARblue 11-20-2014 12:43 PM

Boots looked good last inspection a few months ago. Hoping I won't need the grease at all. Looks like I can get some at the chain auto stores though.

juld0zer 11-20-2014 01:57 PM

no need to disturb them then ;)

zefaulter 11-25-2014 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3035737)
Boots looked good last inspection a few months ago. Hoping I won't need the grease at all. Looks like I can get some at the chain auto stores though.

What is considered broken boot? Is it supposed to be literally broken/cracked? Also they have a repair kit for $45 last time I asked(each side)

juld0zer 11-25-2014 05:17 PM

yep, generally the boot will be torn, split, or the clamps have come loose allowing the boot to slide off. Essentially, it's anything that will cause debris contamination of the grease and mechanism inside. If you can't see grease on the exterior of the boots then i wouldnt disturb the boots. Avoid scuffing them and damaging them when working nearby and you'll be fine

zefaulter 11-25-2014 10:55 PM

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...3d2ca2c164.jpg

Besides the rust, would you consider this damaged? There is way too much rust, breaks my heart looking at it :(

juld0zer 11-26-2014 12:01 AM

your boots look fine mate. those rusty components are rusty on mine too. no issue :) remember to mark the original installation position then rotate 180 degrees from the mark before refitting - if you want to follow the service manual to a T

Guavazo 12-01-2014 03:29 PM

Just had a Talk with the Nissan corporate, as TSB like this should be covered under power train warranty, but still refuse to do anything with it. Thinking just live with it or fix it next spring.:mad:

zefaulter 12-01-2014 05:43 PM

It's simple fix just takes time. Not even sure if it's 100% necessary

JARblue 12-01-2014 05:48 PM

A guy here in Texas drove over 30K miles with the axle click. He has since sold his Z, but he never had any problems related to it.

Guavazo 12-01-2014 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3044816)
A guy here in Texas drove over 30K miles with the axle click. He has since sold his Z, but he never had any problems related to it.

Haha, I know its one of those good will service the dealer can do, and since I do most of the maintenance myself I don't spend much money at the dealer. I probably out of luck. I just feel corporate response "take it to other dealer and pay them a diagnostic fee to see if they willing to fix it for free" is a bad customer service.

This should be place under the schedule maintenance to re-apply grease since nothing is broken. and there known way to resolve the problem.

chops 12-14-2014 11:07 PM

finally had time to do this today. ran into a roadblock kind of. the nut doesnt really reach the castellated portion with 2 spring washers. had to add a 3rd just to get it high enough for the cotter pin to grab. heres a pic with 2 spring washers under the kawasaki nut. need to order 2 more spring washers for the other side now :(

http://i.imgur.com/Z8pVPpv.jpg?1

juld0zer 12-14-2014 11:21 PM

hmmm that's a bit odd. i actually had to tighten mine down a bit more to get the hole in the axle to line up with a slot. Sorry for the troubles! was the Kawasaki nut the same height as the OEM nut?

Is your OEM setup with the beer cap thing over the nut with a wide base (ie. flange nut) or just a plain standard nut with no cap?

chops 12-15-2014 12:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juld0zer (Post 3056609)
hmmm that's a bit odd. i actually had to tighten mine down a bit more to get the hole in the axle to line up with a slot. Sorry for the troubles! was the Kawasaki nut the same height as the OEM nut?

Is your OEM setup with the beer cap thing over the nut with a wide base (ie. flange nut) or just a plain standard nut with no cap?

my OEM setup is with that soft piece of **** adjusting cap on top of the flange nut. and yes the kawasaki nut and the OEM nut is almost the same height. they look to be exactly the same as yours

cfran22 12-16-2014 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chops (Post 3056629)
my OEM setup is with that soft piece of **** adjusting cap on top of the flange nut. and yes the kawasaki nut and the OEM nut is almost the same height. they look to be exactly the same as yours

My Castle nuts are on the way but I can see that I will have the same problem as you. I put 2 spring washers behind the OEM nut, which is taller than the Kawasaki nuts, and the OEM nut was behind the hole.

cfran22 12-16-2014 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juld0zer (Post 2870070)
Hey guys,
As some of you will know, i've been battling these clicking axles for a while. I have tried:
- Lazy fix - basically removing the big nut, pushing the axle in as far as possible and injecting a crapload of wheel bearing grease. Then torquing up the nut to spec. Didn't last long at all.

NB: There are 2 torque specs depending on your year model/the way the big nut is secured.

- Official Nissan fix using Molykote M77 grease. Involves removing both axles, cleaning and applying this special grease and replacing all nuts, bolts, cotter pins, caps. This solution didn't last long - i had my hopes up but i also had my doubts that this super-grease could cushion the metallic click to the point where Nissan engineers declared it as eliminated. For those who want to try it but can't find the grease, you can buy it in a tube from your Honda motorcycle dealer. Google "Honda M77 assembly paste".

- Re-torquing the nut an extra 10Nm each time the noise reappeared. I couldn't go on forever retorquing the nut. With the success i was having, i'd be up to 300Nm by now.

*drum roll*
This is the solution that has eliminated the noise for me. The noise used to come back every 4000km, on alternate sides. This solution has worked for the past 9000km (almost 5 months). I am driving the car harder now that i have some mods too. No, it doesn't involve Loctite and it doesn't cost a fortune either.

Here's what you need if you want to have a go:

- Kawasaki axle nut (yes, seriously). Part number 92210-0280. They're about $15 each from your local Kawasaki dealer. The nut is almost identical in dimensions to the OEM flange type nut - you use the same socket too. Kawasaki specifies similar torque specs to what Nissan specifies so there's no doubt the nut can handle it. It's made in Japan so it must be good, right? :P

This particular nut is castellated, so it combines the OEM big nut plus the pathetic OEM 'adjusting cap' (as fitted to 2011 models and other year models) into one nut. Unlike the weak tin steel prongs of the adjusting cap, the 6 slots in the Kawasaki nut won't get crushed over time from the constant banging of the cotter pin when you accelerate/coast. The slots are also quite snug when you use an OEM cotter pin so again, there's almost no possibility of movement.

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo1-1.jpg
http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo2-1.jpg

- 2 OEM spring washers. One for each side. You'll need the washers to make up the gap because the Kawasaki nut, being just as tall as the OEM nut, will not reach the cotter pin hole in the end of the axle. In the OEM setup, the 'adjusting cap' would sit over the nut and its prongs would reach the cotter pin hole.

- New OEM cotter pins. Don't re-use the old ones. You dont want to be forever mucking around with this.

- Torque the nut up to the OEM spec for a 370z with adjusting cap. You'll notice that the castellated slots don't line up with the cotter pin hole in the axle. This is fine. Use your breaker bar and turn the nut until the next available slot lines up with the hole.

How you torque the nut is up to you. Some prefer to mount the wheel and lower the car til the wheel touches the ground. I just put a jack stand underneath the rotor hat and lowered the car til some weight was resting on the jack stand.

- Fit NEW cotter pin and secure it properly. You might need a small hammer to push it thru.

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo3-1.jpg

- Reinstall wheel and enjoy :)

I hope you enjoy the same success as i did. You don't have to use a Kawasaki nut but any castellated nut of the same thread and diameter will be fine. Don't use an aluminium or soft metal nut.


Good luck!

What do you think about using the Kawasaki nuts as lock nuts over the OEM ones? I'm thinking to torque the OEM nut, then use an impact wrench to lock up the Kawasaki one. The question is, what are the chances of the lock nut coming loose.

juld0zer 12-16-2014 05:33 PM

can you guys post a pic of the original nut with adjusting cap side by side with the kawasaki nut sitting on top of two spring washers? i'm starting to think there might be a variation in the position of the hole drilled thru the axles.

cfran22 12-16-2014 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juld0zer (Post 3058350)
can you guys post a pic of the original nut with adjusting cap side by side with the kawasaki nut sitting on top of two spring washers? i'm starting to think there might be a variation in the position of the hole drilled thru the axles.

My setup had no locking cap, just the Cutter pin. The nut is a couple of mm behind the cutter pin. I don't get my Kawasaki nuts until tomorrow, hopefully.

JARblue 12-16-2014 05:51 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I actually reused the existing single washer that was there and then used two new spring washers on each side. So there were three used on each side. The cotter pin ended up sideways to make sure there was no play.

chops 12-16-2014 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3058366)
I actually reused the existing single washer that was there and then used two new spring washers on each side. So there were three used on each side. The cotter pin ended up sideways to make sure there was no play.

thats exactly how mine is by using 3 spring washers on each side

juld0zer 12-16-2014 09:04 PM

neither the OEM nor the Kawasaki nuts are lock nuts afaik. That's why the cotter pin is there - to prevent the nut coming completely off. However in the 2011 model, the flange nut is covered by a castellated flimsy 'adjusting cap' which is supposed to prevent almost any free movement of the nut beneath. Because it is so flimsy, the castellated slots are easily defeated and the cap itself is a loose fit over the nut. Early models had just the plain hex nut with a cotter pin several millimetres away from the top of the nut. In this configuration, the torque spec is higher than the 2011 model with adjusting cap and flange nut.

because of the adjusting cap's flimsy construction, loose fit and the lax fit of the cotter pin in the axle hole, there is so much potential for it to eventually work loose and cause the clicking noise. I imagine the splines in the hub and axle are also quite a loose fit and hence the constant to/fro rotational forces work like an impact wrench to break the nut loose. The low torque spec for the flange nut (less than wheel nut torque) is surprising. For the adjusting cap to be effective, the potential movement it is designed to restrict/prevent must be only a few degrees - which means the nut it is trying to hold must be f'ing tight to begin with. But it isnt.

Anyway, back to your question - dont use any impact tools to tighten these nuts. If you cant tighten it to spec then get a larger breaker bar onto it.

The reason the Kawasaki nut worked for me is because it is both tight (tad tighter than factory spec) and unable to move (castellated slots are barely big enough for the cotter pin to fit thru so it's a very snug fit.
Again, i apologise for any inconvenience i have caused due to me not accounting for various OEM configurations. I hope that you can all resolve this issue successfully - please post up any relevant pics so future visitors may gain from our collective experiences

JARblue 12-17-2014 08:43 AM

juld0zer, thank you for presenting this solution. It worked out fine for me with only minor changes. In the future, I would probably get 4 new washers for each side to be safe. They're actually kind of expensive for washers, but they're still only a couple bucks each.

Also, I should clarify that my clicking was caused by a lack of moly grease on the axle. My adjusting cap was quite tight and not the cause. For me the Kawasaki nut was just a preventative measure to keep it from happening in the future.

chops 12-17-2014 05:31 PM

for the record, you can probably use flat fender washers and just buy 2 new spring washers (one for each side, to go on after you stack some fender washers). since i believe the way the spring washer works is that it provides tension against the nut to keep the nut from getting loose. stacking 3 spring washers on top probably keeps this from happening.

problem is finding a fender washer with an inside diameter big enough to fit over the axle, and outside diameter small enough to fit into the hole for the hub though. i'm taking apart mine tonight to see if i can find fender washers at grainger that will fit before i order 2 more spring washers. not like the car is going anywhere anyway...its been raining for a week or two now :(

JARblue 12-17-2014 05:37 PM

If you are able to take the spring washer to Grainger, I guarantee they can find you something that will work. And I agree, it is probably appropriate to only use one spring washer per side.

chops 01-19-2015 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3059461)
If you are able to take the spring washer to Grainger, I guarantee they can find you something that will work. And I agree, it is probably appropriate to only use one spring washer per side.

just an update... i picked up 4 of these and they work perfectly

https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/33821

zefaulter 01-19-2015 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chops (Post 3086345)
just an update... i picked up 4 of these and they work perfectly

https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/33821

Why 4?


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