This was such an easy fix it's not even funny. I couldn't find the stupid recommended grease so I just used Valvoline Moly grease that was less than $6 a large tube at Advanced Auto Parts. The only thing that was somewhat pricey was the nut from Nissan ($14 and some cents per nut), and the caps and washers were somewhere a little over $4 each I believe. I got the cotter pins from them for free. I didn't remove the anxles or anything. I used a super small and thin flat head screwdriver to apply the grease and fit it and push it into the splines since i didn't have anything small and thin enough to apply it. It worked!

agreed! Mine was the right side but I'll be doing the left too since I already did one side and bought parts for both.

Lol so i was scrolling through the site looking at threads that have had recent posts, and i come across this thread. upon reading, this sounds exactly like an issue im having that i only legit noticed last week. well...... time for a diy :P

If you just used the stock nut and adjusting cap from Nissan, you may encounter the same issue down the road :twocents:

But hey, an easy fix is an easy fix :tup:

99% of dealers are retarded. Never will take accountability for their incompetence. I wonder how much crap they do wrong to peoples car without them knowing.

It has nothing to do with the grease, nothing at all. Yes greasing is apart of the process but it is a SMALL part of it. You need a properaxle nut from Kawasaki and you need to get rid of that stupid cheap crap bottle cap retainer that you slip the cotter pin through.

I swear. Nissan needs to grow a pair. CSC, clicks, engine cooling etc. If the new Z has small issues like this I doubt Nissan will fix them if they could not do it for this Z for the past 10 years. If that's the case I rather pull the trigger on a new Supra. Oh who am I kidding. . . I'd grab the new Z anyways and continue to bitch about it on this forum with you lot ;)

Literally takes 40 mins to do. Get the Kawasaki Axle nuts from "Snow, City Marine" in Scarborough (call them first), the part numbers are listed in this thread already in the beginning. I also recommend getting SIX new washers (three per each side that go behind the axle nut), do not re use the old washers that are behind the original nut when you take it off.

Cotter pins? Get four, in case you mess one them up or do not like how you bent it to retain the nut. Make sure when you torque the nut you do 85lbs, you may have to torque it more to get the holes to align, but that's alright. Once aligned, slip the cotter pin in and use a hammer to bonk the top to get it down as much as possible THEN bend long portion of the pin.

I used the e-brake to lock the rear wheels, but make sure you secure the front wheels with a chauk. If you do not want to torque in the "air" then what you should do is remove the centre cap from the rear tires, mount them, lug nuts on, put the car down, then torque and then jack the car back up, remove wheels and slip in the cotter pins. Though torquing it to 85lbs in the air was no issue.

My gf at the time always said I spend to much time on the car and that I was obsessed with it. I'm a stickler for doing things rights and treating everything I own with respect because ultimately its a reflection of who I am as a person. Working on my car is a stress reliever and any woman who complains and criticizes you about your hobbies should be shown one thing and one thing only and that's the door.

Anyone in the DMV area willing to lend me a hand to correct this issue? Of course I will reward your time...and I'm COVID free :) Please let me know. Thanks!

I found a clear, quick video showing how to get this done. Can anyone who's done this repair confirm if this video is a good representation of what is needed to be done for the permanent fix outlined in OP's text post?

This is the same video I sent to my mechanic today and he said it was pretty straight forward. He has all the necessary materials and obviously the proper equipment, but I am supplying the Kawasaki nuts. Estimate is $50 per tire. Not bad considering I don't have any of the proper equipment/tools. I'm just a little worried because I've read some people have had the issue come back even going thru with this fix. I guess there's only one way to find out.

Affirmative. This is what I used as a reference. You will need a 32MM impact socket from Princess Auto to remove the axle nut.

Also like I said, get six new washers, he got four new ones and used the old washers to make it three per side. That's a no no in my book.

He was able to push his axle in, I was not, either I was to much of a pussy to do so or something else was going on, trust me I used a hammer and everything to get them to push back. Whatever.

So I bought the kawasaki nuts and had my mechanic do the job. I even showed him the video and this forum thread. Long story short, I still have the ticking noise and my mechanic and I have no idea what it is. It just sucks that I went through all this (getting parts, taking time of out of my day to get it to the shop, paying for labor) just to find out I didn't solve the issue. My mechanic told me to leave this car with him next week so he can troubleshoot and hopefully get to the bottom of it. It's just so damn annoying because my car sounds like it's breaking in first gear.

Ticking noise? Like a constant ticking? That doesn't sound like rear axle click. The rear axle issue discussed in this thread should present itself as a single click or clunk when the momentum of the car changes between forward and reverse.

Find the thickest marine grease you can, no nuts needed.

No, not constant. Only in 1st gear moving slowly, reversing, accelerating, coming to a stop, turning slowly, going over bumps - mainly when the car receives torque at low speeds. It is definitely coming from the rear, mainly the left axle area. It can be one click or multiple consecutive clicks. It's very random. Any idea, anyone? If the nut mod didn't do the trick, I'm thinking it's the entire CV axle or, at a minimum, the joint??

Z Brothers and Sisters,

Just wanted to confirm this older thread is still very valid. This replacement method still works great, I just did this for my '14 Nismo Z. The renewed silence is a great thing. The quoted parts list is correct.

The following parts list for this fix is correct, see below:

Part Numbers
Nissan spring washer 40037-1CA0A (Qty=6) Cost: $4.74 ea
Nissan cotter pins 00921-5402A (Qty=2) Cost: $1.92 ea
Pro-Bolt M24x1.50 Stainless Steel Axle Nut M24x(1.50mm) Rear Wheel (LSSNUT24150001Z2)(Qty=2) Cost $25.50 - $27.90 ea.

Total parts cost is about $85.00 to fix this yourself. The choices are to add grease or not. This only takes 20-30 minutes max to do yourself. Just have the 32mm socket and a torque wrench.