I've been having the clicking for the last month or two and I'm curious about the importance of fixing it, what would happen if I continue to ignore it? I'll probably get around to it eventually but if it's just the annoyance of having a click sometimes then I'd rather continue to ignore it for now.

You can try easy fix which should work as it did for me.

Remove large nut, apply copper or aluminium anti seize grease to thread and nut.
Return nut and torque to correct setting.

Make sure someone is pressing hard on the brakes when torquing nut. Or put wooden block between brake pedal and seat and move seat forward to engage.

Similar issue to cylinder head bolts under torqued without anti seize grease.

This is to fix high pitch click sound when taking off.

My car makes a small rear clunk sound just after coming to a stop. Anyone have any ideas where its coming from?

Just had this fixed at the dealer yesterday. The noise is gone. Cost be 90 bucks. They just did the bulletin and greased the axles. I asked what if the problem comes back since other folks on the forum mentioned noise coming back after few thousand miles. They said those people must not have used the correct nissan grease when they did it.
I went in hoping that powertrain warranty would cover it. Oh well, at least the clicking is gone, it was driving me crazy with the top down or the windows down. Plus it's loud and everyone can hear it when i'm rolling through the lot.
The mechanic also mentioned that in automatics the clicking only happens once during takeoff because the torque is applied and held. But on manual cars (like mine) the clicking will happen as you apply torque and remove torque (which is what happens when you press gas and let it go). See attached screenshot of dealer invoice.

Most Nissan dealers a full of ****.
Incorrect grease used???

:iagree:

Digging this up. I just did the job this past weekend as described by the OP. And it...WORKED!
Only thing is, OP said he used 2 washers, others said 3. I used...4. I used two new spring washers, the original, and went to Ace Harware and found a steel flat washer that was 98% perfect fit.

When greasing it, i knocked axle in just so that the tip of it was flush with the hub centric ring of the hub, so about maybe an inch in, laid some mobil 1 synthetic grease my buddy had in there with a mini brush and then the new nut pulled the axles back out.

i set torque wrench to 80 (factory) to see where'd that get me and the hole for cotter pin was about almost halfway to the next slot. I set torque wrench to a much higher number for curiosity to see if it would click by time i got to the next slot. It lined perfectly when it clicked at about 130 foot pounds. Funny how turning it a maybe a centimeter required a 50% increase in torque.

The old nut i got off with an impact gun and it put up less of a fight than my wheel nuts. Not on there very tight at all.

In fact, i'm certain the grease did next to nothing and the real issue was getting that axle nut to an acceptable torque rating.

My friend was dumbfounded when i told him factory rating was only 75 or 80 pounds as he said my 300zx was like 180 I'm pretty sure and his e46 m3 was over 200. So going up to 130 really shouldn't be an issue. Cotter pin fit very nicely in the castellated slot. My old adjusting cap wasn't destroyed, but it was widened at where the cotter pin was.

My car had the clicking bad. 140k miles. Every single pull away or lifting off accelerator in 4th gear and lower resulted in a click. Car drives smoother now, like it was actually causing extraneous lash besides just a sound.

Very appreciative of the OPs post for this idea as I'm certain it won't ever come back now with a well designed nut on there and torque spec that almost makes sense.

Have to carry this out on my Z once the quarantine is over.

Wanted to ask, could I use Permatex Copper anti-sieze instead of the Moly 77 or any other grease? Also when applying the lubrication, is it okay if apply it on the bolt on which the castle nut tightens onto or would that mess with torque specs etc?

I would obviously grease the splines of the axles when the nut is removed, just wanted everyones 2cents, cheers.

There is different torque spec's. A Dry spec, and a Wet spec. About 95% of the time. It's a Dry spec that gets used. A Dry spec is no grease, oil, or any lube is used. A Wet spec is where some type of lubricant is used. It will spec what type of lube and where area it is applied to. It could be on the threads only, or under the head of the or washer.

So, read the manual.

I understand Nissan changed the part for 2011 and up. My car is a 2010.

So what is best? The Kawasaki nut or the Nissan big nut?

I just finished taking care of the CSC issue on my car and literally a week later I start hearing the clicking noise lol

Someone else asked what exactly is the impact of this issue/ what happens if you don't get it fixed (other than the annoying click)? Bringing this up because it was never answered, at least not that I saw.

I don't have any of the right tools to fix this issue and I live in an apartment, so it's difficult for me to work something like this. I refuse to go to a Nissan dealership especially if they are charging to fix this.

I just did the change per the information that was given here. I got the Kawasaki axle nuts and the rest the material from Nissan. I did not re use the washer that was already behind the original nut, I just bought three new washers (six total) for the swap.

I could not push my axles in to grease the spline, I don't know why but whatever, I still applied the Permatex copper anti-sieze lubricant in there.

For now the clicking is not there, let's see if it comes back or not. I torqued the new axle nuts to 85lbs, then put the cotter pin in.

If you can't do it on your own, ask your buddies if they can help. Which man WOULDN'T enjoy working on a Z? Pay them in beers and Mcdonald's for lunch/dinner. Done.

For the record, I have put more miles on the car since the fix than it had before the clicking issue arose. No issues since and upon recent inspection every still looks to be extremely secure after about 60K miles.

Hey JB, thanks for the update, it is greatly appreciated. I hope all is well with the car and it stays that way.

Another question: is this issue specific to any location in terms of left/right or rear/front? Seems like most people who experience this issue have the clicking coming from the rear. In my case, the clicking seems to be coming from the left rear. Just curious to know. Thanks.

Only from the rear (drive wheels).