NOT the CSC?
 

recently ive had a strange issue. Ive experienced the CSC failure before on my old Z but this is a little different. I have 12k miles on the 13 and have never taken it to a track, or beat on it "yet". So i will start the problem with a question..... how little clutch engagement does your clutch peddle have normally?

The issue is, i have full normal clutch tension the whole throw to the floor, so it FEELS normal. but as your slowly letting up on the clutch it doesnt even attempt to start moving the car fwd until theres barely maybe 3/4-1 inch of travel left to completely letting off the clutch. so this is making it INSANELY difficult to start off or to drive in traffic. Am i just crazy? I dont remember it being so little. you have almost 1 foot of clutch travel to the floor but it doesnt start moving the car until just the very tip of letting off the clutch entirely.

normally i would blame the CSC, but seeing as that has the OPPOSITE symptoms....... usually the peddle sticks to the floor, or has no pressure till almost at the floor. this is the inverse, it has perfect peddle feel all the way but doesnt start moving the car until its at the top. Couldnt be a worn clutch already, what is it?

and before anyone posts the clutch adjustment link "if anyone replies at all" I gave that a shot. all that did was make the clutch throw shorter. it didnt make one **** of a difference about WHERE in the clutch throw it engaged and disengaged. It gives the ILLUSION that its engaging halfway up the throw since its now shorter. so yeah.....

But, on a good note..... if i was not having this problem i DO highly recommend everyone to adjust that as it makes it feel like a proper clutch. a little more firm, and a shorter throw instead of pushing the damn clutch 1.5 feet of travel. not sure what nissan was thinking ITS NOT A TRUCK.

my 13 is the same. Grabs at the last inch of travel. I just learned to drive it that way so im used to it.

Take the clutch assist spring off the pedal under the dash to see if it makes a differance in feel. It should only take you about 10 minutes to do it. If you don't like it. Put the spring back on.

Judging how you have presented yourself to most fellow members in here let me give you your answer:

Fvck off

I just dont remember it ALWAYS being that way. might just be my imagination, or something finally drew my attention to it. Whats worrying me is that its doing damage. This is the only manual ive ever driven that does this, but upon google research apparently 350Zs and Hyundai genisis coupes do it too.....

I will probably just replace the piece of **** OEM clutch all together with an OS giken GT and an external CSC or something if I can ever make enough money to do it.

And to falcon, in the time it took to write a bi7ch comment you could have just been useful and answered the question. Grats on wasting yours AND my time. you are epic winz.

I believe its the master cylinder, when i was bleeding my clutch fluid for the first time, right after i relived the pressure at cqc the master didnt come back for like 3 min i thought i did something wrong, but after few more drains it started coming back better sooner and its just the fluid that sucked.

Or so i thought driving now is better due to smoother engagement and now i feel its coming back that slap release, i think what is happening is that master cylinder gets stuck at some point, maybe? For a half second or so then BAM engagement.

does anyone make a well tested MC replacement for the Z? seems the whole clutch system is just junk pulled from a 1960s russian car.

Could it just be somehow your engagement point is set wrong?

I really have no idea at all. It seems a lot of people are having the same issue? How do i adjust the engagement point? I adjusted the rod with the locknut behind the peddle already and that just made the throw shorter. Respective to its new position its still engaging near the top "when i let off" and taking off the helper spring just firms it up and allows u to feel it better. Does anyone actually know how to adjust the settings when the clutch is engaged or disengaged?

I bought a brand new 14 base and it came with the clutch engagement point at the top, others say their clutch is the same as well. The only thing I seen here to make your clutch pedal like a normal clutch pedal with adjustments is the AJS Clutch pedal assembly replacement? I think it's AJS, don't remember the manufacturer name. Just search the forums for it. It's like $200-$300.

I have a 2012 base w/sport pkg that had a oil consumption issue in which they replaced my short block at the beginning of the year, they also replaced my CSC (which happens to be the second time for this car) and when I got my car back it has the same issue as yours.
My clutch engagement point was within the last 3/4" from the top, when I took my car in for 1k check up, I mentioned this issue to the "Master Tech" and he stated it was normal... I told him if this is normal, then I want it abnormal and the way it was when I brought it in prior to short block swap!
I walked down test drove a '14 base w/sports pkg, clutch engagement was midway thru clutch travel, leaving me puzzled on why they couldn't/wouldn't investigate or help me out in the service department!

Do you have the clutch fluid restrictor removed? So ur stock clutch has 13k miles...it's gonna be a little worn...I ASSume the plastic CSC...You already said that u did the OEM service manual clutch adjustment and it didn't work for you?
that's the pt ov the adjustment...the "true" engagement is going to change as the clutch wears....
I would adjust the clutch pedal engagement to the middle of throw and continue driving...no worries...:tup:
Once you get rid of the restrictor, upgrade the clutch/PP/flywheel, DOT 4 or > fluid, and trash the plasteek CSC, the clutch will feel normal...In my Xperience any way....
We all know the OEM feel is complete dawg shi'it3! LOL!

restrictor? havent heard about that yet. and yeah, FW, clutch, csc, tires, rear are firat mods on the list before i go nuts with it....if ever.