Torque specs for NST crank pulley install
 

Does anyone know what the torque specs are for the NST Crank pulley? I see that the Stillen one says to torque to 33 ft lbs and then tighten the crank bolt an additional 90 degrees. I assume the NST and Stillen are pretty much the same but is there anyone who has experience with the NST kit specifically? Thanks!

have you even tried calling NST? or the search button? or asking someone who's done it before? jeez

Use the same specs. It has nothing to do with the brand of pulley

Not to sound like a prick but that's the whole reason behind why he's asking the question I think man?

I would either use stillen a specs or find the torque specs on the factory damper nismo

Of course I have searched all around and found nothing on the tq specs for the NST kit, and the point of this thread is to ask people who have installed the NST kit to weigh in on what they torqued it to, but thanks shotgungho for your useless comment, lol. I also tried contacting NST by phone and email with no reply (no surprise there, lol). The main thing that threw me was that the tq specs on the factory pulley and the Stillen pulley are a little different. I will be installing thi kit tomorrow and if I can't find any specifics for the NST kit, I'll just use the tq specs from the Stillen pulley will be the closest in spec to the NST pulley.

ah that's why you're going to jtran, ron knows the specs, he's done it...at least on a 350. see ya there ;)

I'm interested in the tq specs too.

... And I would have had them too if someone posted them :p

Assuming it's a metal pulley (can't imagine if not being metal), then the pulley itself has nothing to do with the torque specs. It's all about the bolt (fastener).

download the fsm and look up the spec? too hard? ok well it is 33ftlbs plus 90degrees. tighten the pulley to 33ft.lbs. with a torque wrench then mark it and turn it another 90 degrees with a breaker bar.

Also if you are following the manual the bolt is non reusable and should be lubed with engine oil lightly prior to instal

Shít... I reused it... Many, MANY times... Without oil too... Lol

Nissan also claims the VVEL DC motors are non reusable too slow but they are lol. Thank you for pointing him in the right direction. As Arc said you're not looking for torque specs on the pulley rather the specs to the crank pulley bolt. The pulley is steel sleeved on the back side iirc so by tightening it using the factory specs you shouldn't smash or alter the mating surface between the crank and the pulley.

Yeah most people reuse it so i made it a sub note. You should put oil or antisieze on the reads and under the head tho.

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I'm not familiar with how the crank bolt is constructed so maybe reusing it is OK but the "quarter turn more" part tells me it's not a good idea. I don't reuse "non-reusable" fasteners and will replace any fastener in a heartbeat if it looks/feels the least bit wonky. Especially on the drive train, suspension, or brakes. Fasteners are too cheap to take chances. And use the proper grade - higher grade fasteners are not necessarily better for the application.

on that note the bolt costs around 5.12 plus shipping from courtesy It is a torque to yield so technically it should not be used more than once but as I said most reuse it anyway and it works.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/12303a-...-p-616551.html

No they arent you read your original post again

Edit:This looks out of place somebody deleted a post eh....

you should also replace the oil seal too. i didnt replace mine and it's been a while now, trouble-free. it's a cheap part and you might aswell.

however, i cant speak from experience on the 370Z but if it's like the Corolla seal, either use a proper drift tool or dont go nuts pummelling the new seal in because there is no metal lip on the casing to bottom out the seal on. which means if you go nuts, you'll be pulling the seal back out... or taking the timing chain cover off if you've really done well. i learnt the hard way doing it on my dad's Corolla.

I also reused the bolt. i was unable to get the full 90 degrees additional rotation despite using a powerbar (hand impact tool where you strike the end with a large hammer). I couldnt get the crank to be fully seized/locked so that contributed to the inability and also didnt have access to a hoist + longer breaker bars or ratcheting breaker bar

actually, the bolt isnt a single-use part. not according to the service manual anyway.

Sub'd....

everyone should take a few moments to read thru the big thread relating to NST pulleys. There's a lot of helpful and reassuring info in amongst the sales related questions and posts but nevertheless a good primer for the job ahead of you.

planning is important. dont expect the crank bolt to come off easily. this is not the kind where you can go nuts with a rattle gun - there's no space. unless you determine the effort required to remove the radiator, core support and crash beams is worth it to get your rattle gun on it.

the alternator pulley nut doesnt come off easily either and unless you have the tools to lock the shaft, you will have to use a rattle gun (hooray) to get the nut off and on. but before you even get to that part, you have the epic task of removing the alternator. it's a royal bitch, again due to the space constraints. grazed hands and working by feel is the only way.

the earlier NST crank pulleys i hear were made to be a very very snug fit. mine was very snug and i had to use the crank bolt to drive it onto the crankshaft end. You could use a hammer and block of wood to slowly drive it on but just make sure to grease or oil the centre and the bolt itself (the entire thing, especially under the hex head where it mates with the front of the pulley. i haven't read the other thread in ages but i seem to recall NST revising the dimensions a tiny fraction to make fitment a little better in later versions.

oh and one final tip for those who dont want to read the other entire thread - you will need a slightly shorter belt. i am using a 7PK2000 but if you can get a 7PK1990 i think it would bring the auto tensioner back to factory spec

I did my Stillen with the 33 ft/lbs and then the quarter turn thing. With anti-seize as directed. It's weird... why not just list a torque spec? I finished the job hoping I had it on there to the to correct tension. On critical fasteners, I really like to hear the "click" of a torque wrench.

Use a chain wrench and a breaker bar on the crank pully bolt. Works like a charm.

but you'll sacrifice the stock pulley wouldnt you?