Torque specs for NST crank pulley install

1slow370 · 06-06-2014, 06:50 PM

No they arent you read your original post again

Edit:This looks out of place somebody deleted a post eh....

juld0zer · 10-07-2014, 06:37 AM

you should also replace the oil seal too. i didnt replace mine and it's been a while now, trouble-free. it's a cheap part and you might aswell.

however, i cant speak from experience on the 370Z but if it's like the Corolla seal, either use a proper drift tool or dont go nuts pummelling the new seal in because there is no metal lip on the casing to bottom out the seal on. which means if you go nuts, you'll be pulling the seal back out... or taking the timing chain cover off if you've really done well. i learnt the hard way doing it on my dad's Corolla.

I also reused the bolt. i was unable to get the full 90 degrees additional rotation despite using a powerbar (hand impact tool where you strike the end with a large hammer). I couldnt get the crank to be fully seized/locked so that contributed to the inability and also didnt have access to a hoist + longer breaker bars or ratcheting breaker bar

juld0zer · 10-07-2014, 06:40 AM

actually, the bolt isnt a single-use part. not according to the service manual anyway.

Wonka2581 · 10-07-2014, 07:23 AM

Sub'd....

juld0zer · 10-07-2014, 10:28 AM

everyone should take a few moments to read thru the big thread relating to NST pulleys. There's a lot of helpful and reassuring info in amongst the sales related questions and posts but nevertheless a good primer for the job ahead of you.

planning is important. dont expect the crank bolt to come off easily. this is not the kind where you can go nuts with a rattle gun - there's no space. unless you determine the effort required to remove the radiator, core support and crash beams is worth it to get your rattle gun on it.

the alternator pulley nut doesnt come off easily either and unless you have the tools to lock the shaft, you will have to use a rattle gun (hooray) to get the nut off and on. but before you even get to that part, you have the epic task of removing the alternator. it's a royal bitch, again due to the space constraints. grazed hands and working by feel is the only way.

the earlier NST crank pulleys i hear were made to be a very very snug fit. mine was very snug and i had to use the crank bolt to drive it onto the crankshaft end. You could use a hammer and block of wood to slowly drive it on but just make sure to grease or oil the centre and the bolt itself (the entire thing, especially under the hex head where it mates with the front of the pulley. i haven't read the other thread in ages but i seem to recall NST revising the dimensions a tiny fraction to make fitment a little better in later versions.

oh and one final tip for those who dont want to read the other entire thread - you will need a slightly shorter belt. i am using a 7PK2000 but if you can get a 7PK1990 i think it would bring the auto tensioner back to factory spec

mab864 · 10-07-2014, 06:14 PM

I did my Stillen with the 33 ft/lbs and then the quarter turn thing. With anti-seize as directed. It's weird... why not just list a torque spec? I finished the job hoping I had it on there to the to correct tension. On critical fasteners, I really like to hear the "click" of a torque wrench.

SouthArk370Z · 10-07-2014, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mab864

... It's weird... why not just list a torque spec? ...

Torque to Yield

Spooler · 10-07-2014, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juld0zer

everyone should take a few moments to read thru the big thread relating to NST pulleys. There's a lot of helpful and reassuring info in amongst the sales related questions and posts but nevertheless a good primer for the job ahead of you.

planning is important. dont expect the crank bolt to come off easily. this is not the kind where you can go nuts with a rattle gun - there's no space. unless you determine the effort required to remove the radiator, core support and crash beams is worth it to get your rattle gun on it.

the alternator pulley nut doesnt come off easily either and unless you have the tools to lock the shaft, you will have to use a rattle gun (hooray) to get the nut off and on. but before you even get to that part, you have the epic task of removing the alternator. it's a royal bitch, again due to the space constraints. grazed hands and working by feel is the only way.

the earlier NST crank pulleys i hear were made to be a very very snug fit. mine was very snug and i had to use the crank bolt to drive it onto the crankshaft end. You could use a hammer and block of wood to slowly drive it on but just make sure to grease or oil the centre and the bolt itself (the entire thing, especially under the hex head where it mates with the front of the pulley. i haven't read the other thread in ages but i seem to recall NST revising the dimensions a tiny fraction to make fitment a little better in later versions.

oh and one final tip for those who dont want to read the other entire thread - you will need a slightly shorter belt. i am using a 7PK2000 but if you can get a 7PK1990 i think it would bring the auto tensioner back to factory spec

Use a chain wrench and a breaker bar on the crank pully bolt. Works like a charm.

juld0zer · 10-08-2014, 07:44 AM

but you'll sacrifice the stock pulley wouldnt you?

06-06-2014, 06:50 PM	#16 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	No they arent you read your original post again Edit:This looks out of place somebody deleted a post eh.... __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50 Last edited by 1slow370; 06-06-2014 at 06:56 PM.

10-07-2014, 07:23 AM	#19 (permalink)
Wonka2581 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Chattanooga, TN Posts: 3,083 Drives: MY WIFE CRAZY.... Rep Power: 2611	Sub'd.... __________________ "I have nothing to offer but blood, toil, tears and sweat""Winston Churchill"

10-07-2014, 10:28 AM	#20 (permalink)
juld0zer Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Sydney Posts: 428 Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 139	everyone should take a few moments to read thru the big thread relating to NST pulleys. There's a lot of helpful and reassuring info in amongst the sales related questions and posts but nevertheless a good primer for the job ahead of you. planning is important. dont expect the crank bolt to come off easily. this is not the kind where you can go nuts with a rattle gun - there's no space. unless you determine the effort required to remove the radiator, core support and crash beams is worth it to get your rattle gun on it. the alternator pulley nut doesnt come off easily either and unless you have the tools to lock the shaft, you will have to use a rattle gun (hooray) to get the nut off and on. but before you even get to that part, you have the epic task of removing the alternator. it's a royal bitch, again due to the space constraints. grazed hands and working by feel is the only way. the earlier NST crank pulleys i hear were made to be a very very snug fit. mine was very snug and i had to use the crank bolt to drive it onto the crankshaft end. You could use a hammer and block of wood to slowly drive it on but just make sure to grease or oil the centre and the bolt itself (the entire thing, especially under the hex head where it mates with the front of the pulley. i haven't read the other thread in ages but i seem to recall NST revising the dimensions a tiny fraction to make fitment a little better in later versions. oh and one final tip for those who dont want to read the other entire thread - you will need a slightly shorter belt. i am using a 7PK2000 but if you can get a 7PK1990 i think it would bring the auto tensioner back to factory spec Last edited by juld0zer; 10-07-2014 at 10:34 AM.

10-07-2014, 06:14 PM	#21 (permalink)
mab864 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Oregon Posts: 482 Drives: 13 Sport 6MT Rep Power: 12	I did my Stillen with the 33 ft/lbs and then the quarter turn thing. With anti-seize as directed. It's weird... why not just list a torque spec? I finished the job hoping I had it on there to the to correct tension. On critical fasteners, I really like to hear the "click" of a torque wrench. __________________ Berk HFC & CBE, Stillen G3, UpRev & tune by PSI, GTMat, 3M, Swift, StopTech, H&R 20/25, GT-R, 324 whp & 262 torque

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10-07-2014, 06:37 AM	#17 (permalink)
juld0zer Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Sydney Posts: 428 Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 139	you should also replace the oil seal too. i didnt replace mine and it's been a while now, trouble-free. it's a cheap part and you might aswell. however, i cant speak from experience on the 370Z but if it's like the Corolla seal, either use a proper drift tool or dont go nuts pummelling the new seal in because there is no metal lip on the casing to bottom out the seal on. which means if you go nuts, you'll be pulling the seal back out... or taking the timing chain cover off if you've really done well. i learnt the hard way doing it on my dad's Corolla. I also reused the bolt. i was unable to get the full 90 degrees additional rotation despite using a powerbar (hand impact tool where you strike the end with a large hammer). I couldnt get the crank to be fully seized/locked so that contributed to the inability and also didnt have access to a hoist + longer breaker bars or ratcheting breaker bar

10-07-2014, 06:40 AM	#18 (permalink)
juld0zer Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Sydney Posts: 428 Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 139	actually, the bolt isnt a single-use part. not according to the service manual anyway.

10-08-2014, 07:44 AM	#24 (permalink)
juld0zer Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Sydney Posts: 428 Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 139	but you'll sacrifice the stock pulley wouldnt you?