I did a back-to-back dyno comparason and got pretty much what Z1 advertises...equal between the two until you get to 6k or so, then the Z1 mani starts to make more. Overall there was about 8 peak whp gained with the Z1 mani over the Motordyne.

So both are the same with mid range torque?

For the most part, yes. Mine didn't really loose any midrange at all.

now all need is jun cams and a dry sump

you*

DO you have your dyno sheet you could upload? I been back and fourth on the z1 manifold or just wait until someone builds a badass manifold so i can get custom 3inch intakes and run 70mm throttle bodies with jun cams.

This is the best pic i have...Blue is the Z1 mani, Red/Green is the Motordyne. This is Uncorrected, but if you look closely, the Blue and Red are done in almost identical conditions.

Here is the most recent Dyno with my current mods...

Why the loss of power from 6,600 to redline?

maybe the system is to free-flowing? or need a fuel system upgrade?

I believe the RPM displayed on the graph is about 500rpm off since my redline is 7,800rpm. So the power curve is where it should be, with me peaking around 7,000rpm.

...However, i do plan on swpping over to E85 next.

Cats?

How much more power do you think you can squeeze out running E-85? When 1slow370z switch to E-85 he only gain 10 peak horsepower @ 8,300 rpm

No, LTH's to true-dual CBE.

From what I've heard 5-10whp is what i should expect when going to E-85. i would be happy hitting the 350whp mark...which would have me putting to the wheels what the engine is rated at to the crank :tup:

You ever think about running a dry sump, so you can rev a lot harder and not worry about oil starvation.

A solid 10 throughout.

Nothing wrong with that my friend, Not to many people have hit that mark.

Hmmm

Also, I failed to mention that I'm running 4.08 gears, which I've been told will make my peak HP read a little lower than it actually is since i no longer have a true 1:1 gear to dyno in. This could also be the reason why the RPM's shown on the graph are a little off.

Thats what i figured

I was just about to ask you if you were running different gears. HOw do you like the gear swap? Do you feel the car pulls harder with gears? i was thinking about the 3.9 since i can't afford to track my car just yet

I have, i really can't justify the cost just yet. With the power the car is putting down, combined with how quickly it revs with the Aluminum flywheel and 4.08 rear end, its really right where i want it in tearms of how it feels to drive. Hitting the 350whp mark is just a mental thing for me, and has been the end point for power mods when i reach it. Dry-sump and cams are something i would only do if i needed to tear down the engine.

I like them. They really aren't as noticeable by themselves as you would think. But when combined with an aluminum flywheel and aluminum crank pulley...its pretty awesome. Traction is a huge issue for me at this point, and thats with me running 305 Micheline Pilot Super Sports. IMO, if you're going to do gears, you should go balls out and just do the 4.08's.

What gear you dyno in? Stock is 5th. Higher the gear, higher the HP on a Dynojet.

Then i might just have to do the 4.08 gears when its time. With the 4.08 gears is 1st gear useless? I'm asking because it could be a pain in the rear for streets, I only drive my Z 1 or 2 days a week until my beater bomb blows up.

Looks like 5th gear pulls

Ahh, good catch, now I see where it's all coming from. My SAE in 4th I knew couldn't be getting beat that bad haha.

So you think 350 maybe 365 with e-85 and a upgrade in the fuel system (all bolts) is all the VQ can crank out, without the use of a dry sump and jun cams?

Its 5th...thats as close to 1:1 as I can get...still a little under which is why my tuner said that my numbers would be slightly lower than what I would put down with stock gearing.

Yes, 1st gear is pretty much useless, lol

Don't be mad, not trying to start anything...but 330ish, maybe 340 on a good day. I think Z1 did show after begging 340 on E on SAE with everything included full port jobs on TB's and mani's. Question I have now though is how did their DJ show 340 when mines showing 312 minus E. I mean I'll take 28hp for E!!!

"This is also important for comparing results at the same dyno shop, for example, here in Las Vegas our atmospheric pressure stays relatively consistent, but our temps vary from 38 degrees to 118 degrees. So the same car with no changes will certainly make less power on the hot day compared to the cool day, but applying the SAE CF allows us to make an “apples to apples” comparison. If you take anything away from the last few sentences, it would be to ask your dyno operator to make sure that he is showing you SAE corrected HP figures, and before I get off my soap box, I will say that there are certain Dynojet dyno owners who apply the “STD” correction factor, and that’s not proper to do. The STD CF is an older standard that yields slightly higher HP numbers, so don’t allow yourself to fall into the trap (just use the SAE CF!!)."

I believe STD is what Z1 uses.

When you say under, you mean like 0.90 instead of OEM at 1.00?

Also if the 6m is 1.20 in 4th, and the auto is 1.40 in 4th, cause the 6m 1.20 is closer to 1.00, the 6m should put down more power if the drive train loss is 100% equal (which I'm sure it's not).

Yea, I'm closer to stock 4th gear gearing with the 4.08's in 5th gear compared to a stock 3.6 geared car in 5th gear...if that makes sense.

I wanna race haha! You said aluminium flywheel right? What's the weight?

Plus E, plus 4.08. PLEASE do SAE one day, I wanna see the difference vs me!

Whats E? E85?

Yeah

The 345whp is without E85, i'm planning to do E85 next...hopefully that will put me over my 350whp goal.