Without getting to much into this whole debate...LS Swap, would cost less then 10 and would be 500+ NA...just sayin'.:stirthepot: AND someone is just about done doing it, with a kit, by the sounds of it.
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Picked up the motor today. Now to start saving
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Now the fun and exploded credit card starts. :rofl2:
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Elmo whats with the new engine? Did you blow the previous one?
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What exactly are your build plans? I guess you could try higher CR pistons, but it will have to drink race gas or use WI.
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Im going to look into options, i still want to keep the car streetable. I want to do the heads before anything, and if the stock block blows up i can just replace it. If the stock block holds up for a period of time, ill just send the block of to get it built for high revs.
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I just don't want to start buying parts. Ill do my research before i start unloading the bank account
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Well it looks like you're serious about this...
You're going to have to replace all the internals, that's a given. So get together with your mechanic buddy and start figuring out what you can afford. Off the top of my head you will need: High compression pistons Lightweight/knife edged crank / possibly more stroke if you can't get enough volume via boring Custom grind camshafts with upgraded valvetrain Forged rods Fuel system & Injectors Boring the cylinders / sleeves Custom Intake or ITB's This is actually a really neat project and I hope you go through with it. :cool: GOOD LUCK! |
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i gotta remove limiter and do me a Glory-Pull,probably hit 175 in 1:1 |
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Elmo, finding parts is easy ...........
Talk to JWT 1. Crank from Bryant Racing (OEM stroke) 2. GA rods and pistons from JWT (12:1) 3. JUN cams and OEM VVEL, or GA HR head conversion 4. ATI damper, or you can use the Ross Performance from down under 5. Wet sump with external pressure stage - requires some plumbing inside the sump and delete OEM oil pump OR Daily Engineering Dry-Sump OR Omega Tech dry-sump (I'm the guinea pig) OR NISMO oil pump BUT Doran Racing will tell you it is not a perfect solution but "should" be OK for street/"fast road" engine 6. You cannot go wrong with valve train from Kyle at ImportPartsPro OR JWT retainer/spring package 7. ITB/induction - I hope to have HR-head x-over mani in my hands this month - but this probably will not suit VHR heads 8. Beware OEM crank as Doran will tell you that they crack after a few meetings (so figure ~10 hours race running) - it might be OK for a fast streeter - depends on time spent at big revs |
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