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-   -   400 whp on N/A VQ possible? (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/90020-400-whp-n-vq-possible.html)

90 ST 08-05-2015 11:00 AM

Without getting to much into this whole debate...LS Swap, would cost less then 10 and would be 500+ NA...just sayin'.:stirthepot: AND someone is just about done doing it, with a kit, by the sounds of it.

Elmo370z 08-05-2015 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90 ST (Post 3276761)
Without getting to much into this whole debate...LS Swap, would cost less then 10 and would be 500+ NA...just sayin'.:stirthepot: AND someone is just about done doing it, with a kit, by the sounds of it.

Lol my buddy keeps trying to get me to do a ls swap. But this motor only cost me 1600 and had 26k miles on it. If i wanted a v-8 i would of bought a car with an v-8. Keeping the Zed the way it suppose to be.

Elmo370z 08-08-2015 07:31 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Picked up the motor today. Now to start saving

Rusty 08-08-2015 09:19 PM

Now the fun and exploded credit card starts. :rofl2:

Elmo370z 08-08-2015 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3280210)
Now the fun and exploded credit card starts. :rofl2:

Im going to take my time. Save where i can lucky i have an mechanic so that will cut alot of cost

Zoren 370 08-15-2015 08:55 AM

Elmo whats with the new engine? Did you blow the previous one?

Elmo370z 08-16-2015 12:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zoren 370 (Post 3285819)
Elmo whats with the new engine? Did you blow the previous one?

No, i got a good deal on it. Do i went ahead and bought it.

Jordo! 08-16-2015 12:55 PM

What exactly are your build plans? I guess you could try higher CR pistons, but it will have to drink race gas or use WI.

Elmo370z 08-16-2015 03:42 PM

Im going to look into options, i still want to keep the car streetable. I want to do the heads before anything, and if the stock block blows up i can just replace it. If the stock block holds up for a period of time, ill just send the block of to get it built for high revs.

Elmo370z 08-17-2015 10:31 AM

I just don't want to start buying parts. Ill do my research before i start unloading the bank account

jcosta79 08-17-2015 12:34 PM

Well it looks like you're serious about this...

You're going to have to replace all the internals, that's a given. So get together with your mechanic buddy and start figuring out what you can afford. Off the top of my head you will need:

High compression pistons
Lightweight/knife edged crank / possibly more stroke if you can't get enough volume via boring
Custom grind camshafts with upgraded valvetrain
Forged rods
Fuel system & Injectors
Boring the cylinders / sleeves
Custom Intake or ITB's

This is actually a really neat project and I hope you go through with it. :cool:

GOOD LUCK!

jchammond 08-17-2015 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit (Post 3241876)
Most do regardless so they dont pull that fast of a speed but it's not a glory pull; it's the cars 1:1 so if you want to be the most accurate you need it.

My A/T Z hit speed limiter @ around 6900/156 in 5th (1:1) showed a bit more power than 4th (1.41:1) ,but dyno guy backed off throttle when he seen shift light flash at 7200.
i gotta remove limiter and do me a Glory-Pull,probably hit 175 in 1:1

Elmo370z 08-18-2015 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcosta79 (Post 3286991)
Well it looks like you're serious about this...

You're going to have to replace all the internals, that's a given. So get together with your mechanic buddy and start figuring out what you can afford. Off the top of my head you will need:

High compression pistons
Lightweight/knife edged crank / possibly more stroke if you can't get enough volume via boring
Custom grind camshafts with upgraded valvetrain
Forged rods
Fuel system & Injectors
Boring the cylinders / sleeves
Custom Intake or ITB's

This is actually a really neat project and I hope you go through with it. :cool:

GOOD LUCK!

Yeah finding the parts is the hard part. The bottom end is going to be stock. Im going to do heads, jun cam, valve train upgrade, ati damper, and nismo oil pump ( unless something better is available). Then see where i can go from there. From what I've seen from one a fellow on n here and the car is still running, the motor can handle up to 8,300 rpms before the springs run out and 8500 rpms until our block goes to shed. Longevity ahhh who knows. But i have a spare block.

BGTV8 08-18-2015 02:34 AM

Elmo, finding parts is easy ...........

Talk to JWT
1. Crank from Bryant Racing (OEM stroke)
2. GA rods and pistons from JWT (12:1)
3. JUN cams and OEM VVEL, or GA HR head conversion
4. ATI damper, or you can use the Ross Performance from down under
5. Wet sump with external pressure stage - requires some plumbing inside the sump and delete OEM oil pump
OR
Daily Engineering Dry-Sump
OR
Omega Tech dry-sump (I'm the guinea pig)
OR NISMO oil pump BUT Doran Racing will tell you it is not a perfect solution but "should" be OK for street/"fast road" engine
6. You cannot go wrong with valve train from Kyle at ImportPartsPro OR JWT retainer/spring package
7. ITB/induction - I hope to have HR-head x-over mani in my hands this month - but this probably will not suit VHR heads
8. Beware OEM crank as Doran will tell you that they crack after a few meetings (so figure ~10 hours race running) - it might be OK for a fast streeter - depends on time spent at big revs

Elmo370z 08-18-2015 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BGTV8 (Post 3287545)
Elmo, finding parts is easy ...........

Talk to JWT
1. Crank from Bryant Racing (OEM stroke)
2. GA rods and pistons from JWT (12:1)
3. JUN cams and OEM VVEL, or GA HR head conversion
4. ATI damper, or you can use the Ross Performance from down under
5. Wet sump with external pressure stage - requires some plumbing inside the sump and delete OEM oil pump
OR
Daily Engineering Dry-Sump
OR
Omega Tech dry-sump (I'm the guinea pig)
OR NISMO oil pump BUT Doran Racing will tell you it is not a perfect solution but "should" be OK for street/"fast road" engine
6. You cannot go wrong with valve train from Kyle at ImportPartsPro OR JWT retainer/spring package
7. ITB/induction - I hope to have HR-head x-over mani in my hands this month - but this probably will not suit VHR heads
8. Beware OEM crank as Doran will tell you that they crack after a few meetings (so figure ~10 hours race running) - it might be OK for a fast streeter - depends on time spent at big revs

Awesome, im at work at the moment, but I'll be giving b these guys a call sometime this week to start putting a game plan together. I'm not doing a Hr head swap, you know anything about an valvetrain upgrade for vvel heads? What's the omega dry sump run you?


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