Yes... it really stinks. This is your chance to get a better CSC because the new OEM one is no different. Mine was replaced a year ago. It leaked fluid inside the bell housing. I'm currently running the ZSpeed HD CSC. It seems to work well and feels stock. With a new clutch, it does judder every once in awhile. In fact, the car would judder out of the box so it's nothing new. It has been a month and 1700 miles, and my car is a daily driver.

If you plan to track or drive spiritedly and experience over 220F on average, definitely get an oil cooler. You can see if some N/A owners can chime in about their experience. I had mine installed with the turbo kit, so on average I see no more than 210F on a hot day. With temps in the 70s, It is around 190-200. What's really funny is that the fans from running the A/C cools down the oil temps as well.

This is definatley related to the engine/oil overheating. I notice when I hit 200+ this happens a lot. Anything under 3K rpms I get bogged down and no power. Very embarrasing when I try to take off fast.

I live in Vegas and this is something I'm currently desperately trying to remedy. So far I got the Stillen G3 CAIs, 24-row oil cooler and added Water Wetter to my coolant. Car runs better for longer but, eventually, still does it.

Soon I will buy as much heat shielding wrap as I can find to wrap my intake tubes (any recommendations?), I have some MAF sensor cleaner, and I'm thinking an UpRev tune will put an end to my woes.

Actually I'd be interested for someone with an UpRev reflash to chime in if the tune fixed this particular issue.

uprev with fan control, your golden.

That's good to hear! :tiphat: Would you mind elaborating a little? :icon17:

old thread but i will chime in with my observations via scangauge. Throttle position (TP) sits at 1 at idle. Whether that's 1% or 1 degree (angle) i'm not sure. Back when i had the scangauge connected to my Mazda, i've only ever seen it as high as 90 so i'm led to believe this is a reading in degrees, 90 being a right angle & therefore WOT.

Cruising at 60kmh in 5th (6MT) the TP is around 15-20. I'm not an aggressive driver but i'm no grandpa when i feel the need or urge, but generally i'm pretty gentle to avoid giving the gf whiplash!

Since you're running a boosted setup i'm curious if the throttle plates are resticting boost? Would it be possible to hook up a MAP sensor based boost gauge before the throttle bodies & comparing that to your ECU MAP reading? i'm happy to gather some n/a MAP readings for you if you want.

I find it's a bit weird that the TP would be 1 degree at idle yet the engine idles quite smoothly. Sometimes i doubt the scangauge.. i guess the sure way to find out would be to remove the post MAF pipe and start it up for a few seconds.

I know a few common rail t/diesel guys around here that have either removed the throttle plates or drilled holes in them for various reasons including increasing throttle response by a fraction. But a t/diesel is a different beast & loves a shitload of air & there's no super sensitive AFRs to upset. more air can be easily matched with more fuel. The throttle plates on these engines are largely to help get a gentler shut down and to aid DPF regeneration.

Uprev fan control is exactly as its name suggests - reprogramming the ECU to turn the fans on earlier (ie at a lower coolant temp) & spinning them faster at each coolant temp step. basically a remap for the fan. IMO it's quite expensive if you're simply tuning for driveability only. You might aswell tune for performance too. Nissan really should've programmed the fans to come on earlier but i guess this is what we have to live with if we dont want to be restricted to driving Leafs or Priuses yet!

I've since had my throttle response fixed. It was a faulty brake switch.

serious!? what does the brake switch tell the ECU in relation to controlling power output? Is the rpm range restricted when you brake? i wonder how they figured that one out.. there's no dtc for it so maybe your brake lights were always on or something..

This thread:
http://www.the370z.com/2103059-post925.html

See this thread!
http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ml#post2101994

Edit: lol. DIGI beat me to it.

I finally got Uprev to try out this fan control mod.

I honestly cannot say it lived up to my expectations because it actually made things worse for me. Yes it kept the oil temps cooler/kept the oil temp at normal temps for longer, but by cranking on the fans, you're flooding the engine bay with hot air which heats up the intake piping and the MAF/IAT sensor. It creates heatsoak - or a false high intake air temp, leading to timing being pulled and creating another lag effect.

I originally set my fans to come on at 90*c (65% duty) but i did not see much drop in coolant temps. I suspect this could be due to the thermostat but i thought it opened at a lower temp..
The coolant temp does reach 90*c at most stop lights so the heatsoaking was getting really annoying since i had spent so much time/money researching and eliminating heatsoak. It was a step backward to go a step forward.
I now have my fans set to come on at 95*c (65% duty). I will only reach 95*c at the longer stop lights and in heavy traffic which is probably only 20% of the time. I can live with that.

The other upside of the slightly higher on-temperature is that when the fans come on, the coolant temp DOES drop 4-5*c within a 10 seconds.

I do have to note though, those with uninsulated intakes or stock intakes might have a different experience to me so don't take my feedback as negative - it's all relative to how your car is setup.

Rise from the dead! OMFG all these years of dealing with throttle lag under 3k RPM with the throttle barely opening up at low RPM and the surge after 2k RPM... the MAP sensor!

Got a used MAP sensor just to get by for now to try to resolve some idle hunting and what I think might be the reason for the hesitation when accelerating. Goodness gracious the car is so eager to rev in neutral, boost builds up before 2k RPM, lots more BOV venting at low RPM, etc. Even at higher gear applying more pedal equates to more "push."

Where's the MAP sensor at?

Upper intake manifold. Towards back near driver side throttle. Single harness. Single 10mm bolt. Remove rear half of the engine cover.

hey man my car runs so much better when i unplug my map sensor. my nissan dealer said there are no problems with the car. but i have the same exact problems as you do. how much did you pay for a used map sensor? think i need to get one.
thanks