haha nice new car mod? lol

Yeah, I had a car swap done. Lou Fusz installed it. :icon18:

HA, love the shirt!
I test drove one, but haven't made the fix yet. So tempting. That 5.0 is VERY nice.

Anyone have any updates on this?

somebody should make up a zero gauge ground kit would add like 100hp

the last post on this was awhile ago, but i just took my z in to get an oil changed 2 days ago. i noticed it didn't have as much balls as it did before i took it in immediately. the dealer used mobile 1 and they used the right weight (made sure to check after i noticed loss of power). I never had a problem will it being sluggish before the oil change. No one had any real input on here of what the problem could possibly be. just off subject about intakes.

sooo uhhhh m4 I went the same route you did.. Got myself a 2010 Roush 427R and no more low rpm bogging issues! lol.

:icon17: Pics!?

ive taken the 427r decal on the sides off for a cleaner look but thats a pic of the car at the dealer when i was taking delivery

Awesome! Those Roush 427Rs are very well done. Congrats. :tup:

[OT]
Anybody play with the Boss 302? That's probably my favorite over the GT500.
[/OT]

I haven't driven one yet but I hear they are pretty sweet.

thx! i got a new pulley on it and tune.. I may get it dyno tuned at JDM though. Cuz the pulley came with its own tune maybe i can get some more power with a custom dyno tune.

Lately I've been in the habit of getting the car moving from really low revs. Every once in awhile I notice once I get it moving at low revs and quickly give it more throttle, the car hangs and takes awhile to rev up to 4k. I literally floor it, and it makes no difference. This is a turbo car now, and it's not enough to get into boost! It really feels like VDC cutting throttle. If I get the car moving at higher revs (2-3k), it takes off much quicker and a bit more aggressive.

I've had my 370 for just under a year now with 13k miles and noticed the same thing but at higher rpms in 5 or 6 gears, usually when the car is warm. I installed a Stillen gen 3 long tube intake a couple months ago and the car runs smoother but same issue every now and then. It feels like the car wants to go faster but doesn't and produces a smell if I push it. I noticed it on the way home from work the other day in 5th gear where I usually have the most torque. I've reset the ecu once since owning it.

I noticed the exact same thing when going from shell to techron, never again

I've been dealing with this situation ever since I purchased my Z back in June of this year. My car is bone stock and has had one oil change so far but I noticed the delayed throttle response/loss of acceleration about a week after I got it and has continued to do it up until now. It typically does this when the car is warmed up (oil temp 230-240), but I'm really surprised no one has determined the cause of this yet! I'm taking the Z into Nissan tomorrow to have them investigate this problem so hopefully I can get some sort of answer..

Beastmode

So far I believe it is already known that the ECU starts holding back power when the oil temps go beyond 200F. I just hate it when the car ramps up slowly in 1st every once in awhile regardless of oil temps.

Ahhh alright, I must have missed that. I thought I read the entire thread lol. So would you say an oil cooler is a necessity if I live in Phoenix, Arizona? I can't take it when my car starts to do that, which is almost every day. My average oil temps are 220-230F

Wow... this summer has been one of the hottest, and I've never exceeded 220F.

I have the oil cooler and twin turbo, and it still feels like the throttle doesn't want to open up fully or quickly enough after things heat up for awhile. It gets to the point my car boosts later than usual or I can't get the turbos spooling. It's a different feeling when things are still cool... the car is rev happy, and I can get boost in 3rd at low speeds.

So has anyone monitored or logged the actual throttle position? I have the UpRev cable, but not the software.

Definitely take it in. They likely wont' do anything (ECU reflash if you're LUCKY, but that probably won't fix it). But they need to know about it. If this ever gets resolved, I'll buy another one =)

I'm gonna do my best to make sure everyone that needs to know at Nissan hears what I have to say. It's unfair that I have to deal with an ECU that puts my car in limp mode purely from daily driving. Hopefully when this is all said and done... OIL COOLERS FOR EVERYONE! :ughdance:

Just picked my car up from the dealership after an oil change and maintenance check up. I drove across the street to Wendy's and my clutch won't come back up after I press it down to put it in gear.... WTF! Dealership is about to come pick my car up and tow it back so they can see what's going on. My car has 10,600 miles on it. Anyone know what this could be? They also said that the delayed throttle response is due to the ECU and that's just how it's programmed. Not much help

Master and/or CSC failure... had mine replaced as well. Master tech also says it has to be ECU programming and mentions emissions compliance. It pretty much kills the fun factor.

Thanks Digi. I'm pretty bummed about this whole situation. I really want to bring this situation up to Nissan, but at this point it seems as though you guys have been at this for a while with no results. Should I just get an oil cooler? This clutch issue caught me way off guard though, just icing on the cake I guess. :roflpuke2:

Yes... it really stinks. This is your chance to get a better CSC because the new OEM one is no different. Mine was replaced a year ago. It leaked fluid inside the bell housing. I'm currently running the ZSpeed HD CSC. It seems to work well and feels stock. With a new clutch, it does judder every once in awhile. In fact, the car would judder out of the box so it's nothing new. It has been a month and 1700 miles, and my car is a daily driver.

If you plan to track or drive spiritedly and experience over 220F on average, definitely get an oil cooler. You can see if some N/A owners can chime in about their experience. I had mine installed with the turbo kit, so on average I see no more than 210F on a hot day. With temps in the 70s, It is around 190-200. What's really funny is that the fans from running the A/C cools down the oil temps as well.

This is definatley related to the engine/oil overheating. I notice when I hit 200+ this happens a lot. Anything under 3K rpms I get bogged down and no power. Very embarrasing when I try to take off fast.

I live in Vegas and this is something I'm currently desperately trying to remedy. So far I got the Stillen G3 CAIs, 24-row oil cooler and added Water Wetter to my coolant. Car runs better for longer but, eventually, still does it.

Soon I will buy as much heat shielding wrap as I can find to wrap my intake tubes (any recommendations?), I have some MAF sensor cleaner, and I'm thinking an UpRev tune will put an end to my woes.

Actually I'd be interested for someone with an UpRev reflash to chime in if the tune fixed this particular issue.

uprev with fan control, your golden.

That's good to hear! :tiphat: Would you mind elaborating a little? :icon17:

old thread but i will chime in with my observations via scangauge. Throttle position (TP) sits at 1 at idle. Whether that's 1% or 1 degree (angle) i'm not sure. Back when i had the scangauge connected to my Mazda, i've only ever seen it as high as 90 so i'm led to believe this is a reading in degrees, 90 being a right angle & therefore WOT.

Cruising at 60kmh in 5th (6MT) the TP is around 15-20. I'm not an aggressive driver but i'm no grandpa when i feel the need or urge, but generally i'm pretty gentle to avoid giving the gf whiplash!

Since you're running a boosted setup i'm curious if the throttle plates are resticting boost? Would it be possible to hook up a MAP sensor based boost gauge before the throttle bodies & comparing that to your ECU MAP reading? i'm happy to gather some n/a MAP readings for you if you want.

I find it's a bit weird that the TP would be 1 degree at idle yet the engine idles quite smoothly. Sometimes i doubt the scangauge.. i guess the sure way to find out would be to remove the post MAF pipe and start it up for a few seconds.

I know a few common rail t/diesel guys around here that have either removed the throttle plates or drilled holes in them for various reasons including increasing throttle response by a fraction. But a t/diesel is a different beast & loves a shitload of air & there's no super sensitive AFRs to upset. more air can be easily matched with more fuel. The throttle plates on these engines are largely to help get a gentler shut down and to aid DPF regeneration.

Uprev fan control is exactly as its name suggests - reprogramming the ECU to turn the fans on earlier (ie at a lower coolant temp) & spinning them faster at each coolant temp step. basically a remap for the fan. IMO it's quite expensive if you're simply tuning for driveability only. You might aswell tune for performance too. Nissan really should've programmed the fans to come on earlier but i guess this is what we have to live with if we dont want to be restricted to driving Leafs or Priuses yet!

I've since had my throttle response fixed. It was a faulty brake switch.

serious!? what does the brake switch tell the ECU in relation to controlling power output? Is the rpm range restricted when you brake? i wonder how they figured that one out.. there's no dtc for it so maybe your brake lights were always on or something..

This thread:
http://www.the370z.com/2103059-post925.html

See this thread!
http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ml#post2101994

Edit: lol. DIGI beat me to it.

I finally got Uprev to try out this fan control mod.

I honestly cannot say it lived up to my expectations because it actually made things worse for me. Yes it kept the oil temps cooler/kept the oil temp at normal temps for longer, but by cranking on the fans, you're flooding the engine bay with hot air which heats up the intake piping and the MAF/IAT sensor. It creates heatsoak - or a false high intake air temp, leading to timing being pulled and creating another lag effect.

I originally set my fans to come on at 90*c (65% duty) but i did not see much drop in coolant temps. I suspect this could be due to the thermostat but i thought it opened at a lower temp..
The coolant temp does reach 90*c at most stop lights so the heatsoaking was getting really annoying since i had spent so much time/money researching and eliminating heatsoak. It was a step backward to go a step forward.
I now have my fans set to come on at 95*c (65% duty). I will only reach 95*c at the longer stop lights and in heavy traffic which is probably only 20% of the time. I can live with that.

The other upside of the slightly higher on-temperature is that when the fans come on, the coolant temp DOES drop 4-5*c within a 10 seconds.

I do have to note though, those with uninsulated intakes or stock intakes might have a different experience to me so don't take my feedback as negative - it's all relative to how your car is setup.

Rise from the dead! OMFG all these years of dealing with throttle lag under 3k RPM with the throttle barely opening up at low RPM and the surge after 2k RPM... the MAP sensor!

Got a used MAP sensor just to get by for now to try to resolve some idle hunting and what I think might be the reason for the hesitation when accelerating. Goodness gracious the car is so eager to rev in neutral, boost builds up before 2k RPM, lots more BOV venting at low RPM, etc. Even at higher gear applying more pedal equates to more "push."

Where's the MAP sensor at?

Upper intake manifold. Towards back near driver side throttle. Single harness. Single 10mm bolt. Remove rear half of the engine cover.

hey man my car runs so much better when i unplug my map sensor. my nissan dealer said there are no problems with the car. but i have the same exact problems as you do. how much did you pay for a used map sensor? think i need to get one.
thanks