I fully Agree! I have owned 06 08 350z DE and HR does not have the same power has 3.7. Car just goes.

I've had problems w/ acceleration and throttle response from time to time, but it was due to filling the tank w/ gas the car wasn't "happy" with. Once she got a tank full of the good stuff, throttle response and acceleration went back to normal, which is quite speedy and lively. Trouble is, gas stations are like a box of chocolates...

I may be way off base, but, try a different brand of gas and see it helps. I've had great results w/ Sunoco 93. I just wish there were more Sunocos in my neck of the woods.

I admit, puny was an overstatement. :icon18:

I just find the car's behavior below 4,000 RPM to be quite interesting. It has the power to GO, and does initially, but something happens and it stops... then a few seconds later it GOES. I wonder if a tune would take care of it.

Same issue here but it didn't start until around 5k (first oil change at 3700m). It used to be intermittent with the worst area 3 - 4k. Sometimes it is low power but progressive with a kick and other times it is just a complete dog unless I completely step on the throttle and get it to at least 6k or something. With the AC on the just seems like no power at any RPM. The high heat in the NE right now has definitely made it worse. I stay with Shell first and Exxon as my second choice. I'll try the battery disconnect tomorrow.

Robert

I read somewhere the Camaro SS owners have the same issue with the throttle delay up to 3k RPM. Here's a thread:
Throttle Lag - Camaro Forum - 2011 Camaro 2010 Camaro / Camaro Z28 SS Forums - Camaro5.com

I have the AAM tune and if I jump on the car from a stop and keep on it I dont feel like it falls on its face in the 3K to 4K range. I think our cars could just use some more low end TQ overall.

Now if Im driving normal and the rpms are low and I stomp on it it does take a second to kick in but most cars are like that. If I know I might need to jump on it I put the car into manual mode and ensure the rpms are around 3k already then jump on it.

Interesting as it relates to the Injen Intakes...I just order the Injen Intakes with the MR box.....I might just cancel......anybody else having problems with Intakes????

I have stock intakes and have the same unpredictable hesitation issue. However, I've noticed it less and less. I wonder if it's the quality of fuel. For a while, I was always using WAWA or HESS. But about 1.5 months ago, I switched over the SUNOCO (only). It might be just a coincidence.

wierd. Just be sure to check your intake filters frequently as a less flowing filter will cause falling on the face when punching it. Maybe check the fule filter to see if its getting clogged. Also check to see if your plugs might have been fouled some.

I'm having this issue... I'm stock except for K&N air filters. Points in common I notice:
1. I notice almost everybody is using red line oil (including me) - could be an issue??
2. Not sure about oil filters, but I also use K&N filter, and OP here said he was.
3. It's not intakes that are the issue, it's a mix of both. Could be air filters?
4. Only effects manual transmissions (from what I've gathered on the two threads)
5. Gas?


I'm going to try an ECU reset today and see what happens / how long it lasts. Then switch back to factory air filters if the problem doesn't go away or comes back.

try some MAF sensor cleaner on the sensors and see how it does. You can get it at any car store.

Did yesterday. Helps a little, but as soon as it warms up, the problem is still there.
I'm going to try Sunoco Gas. There is only one station in town, but I'll go there for the next few fill-ups.

I took out my air filters today and they were a little dirty, but not extremely. Anyhow, after cleaning them, I noticed a difference in responsiveness. I was noticeably better.

Oh.....there was also a leaf stuck in the left intake duct.

As stated in the other thread, it's not a lack of response. This car needs RPM's; that's understood. It's a weird jerk of power at ~3k RPM. There is almost zero response at the start, then at about 3k RPM, you get pinned back in your seat. It's not smooth at all. This doesn't happen to me until I've driven for about 20 mins. At first it's fine, it's a lot smoother. But it seems after I reach normal operating temp, it gets lagged.

Nissan VTEC Kicked in YO! sorry just had to say that... :ughdance:

I hear what you're saying. I had those symptoms as well. However, I haven't noticed them as much (or at all) as of 1.5 months ago after I switched to a better fuel (Sunoco). Also, it was noticeably much more responsive in lower RPMs after I cleaned the air filters. It could be a combination of both things....better fuel and intake air flow.

I think my next mod will be CAI......probably STILLEN's because of their filter placement. I don't want to risk sucking up water on rainy days, as it would be more prone with the Injens or AEMs.

try some fuel additive to increase the octane and see if that helps. If so then you know it was the gas.

Turn off the vdc and try it.i noticed a difference when i tried mine.

Its worth a try but I don't think its the traction control

I always turn mine off anyway.

FWIW, when I started adding Techron to my tank, my fuel gauge started reading crazy. It took about 5 tanks to get the gauge working right again. Maybe unrelated, but that stuff isn't going in my tank again.

Very interesting. I never had that issue. :confused:

Guys I installed the Black Bettys grounding kit on my 370z today. This kit blows away the Stillen. The kit has TB ground wires, after install I went out to drive around and kicked it up pretty good and I know have a much better throttle response then before.

Now I only have 780miles so far, but I did have lack of throttle response right off the dealer lot with only 22miles on her.

I would check this out:: Go to myg37.com so a search for Black Betty's custom grounding kits:

I also run Shell Gas 93.. Seems like grounding out the TB helped big time :-)

^^ broken link

bp bp bp

Sorry Link wont work..


Go to myg37.com so a search for Black Betty's custom grounding kits:

I think the verdict on grounding kits is still up in the air. Unless your car wasnt being provided and good path for the electricity I dont see how a better grounding kit will help. Now if you have added things like alot of stereo and things of that nature then it might help but I think stock the stock kit should be good. Are you sure it isnt just a preceived gain?

Well, you have look at the stock G-wires. They don't ground out the TB like this kit does. I installed this kit for looks really, I did not really think to get anything out of it, but it did help with throttle respones.

well Im all for better throttle response, might have to do that one one day.

The Stillen kit works fine to Ground out the TB's...It's just the instructions that are a little fuzzy. I noticed no difference in throttle response..

http://images54.fotki.com/v1613/phot...MG_2546-vi.jpg

http://images17.fotki.com/v524/photo...MG_2548-vi.jpg

http://images19.fotki.com/v1611/phot...MG_2547-vi.jpg

I'm sorry but you don't have that connected right. The Kit that I have runs the wires from the TB directly to the the battery.

The Stillen kit was not designed to do that.

I have a 370z Stillen kit and it's not setup the same as the Black Bettys kit.

No connected right? Huh?? Perhaps you do not understand the nature of grounds and ground systems. Not everything needs to run to the battery since it is grounded to the chassis. Any connection to the chassis is a connection to ground. Anybody can make a ground kit up with about $30 worth of wire and ends. This is not rocket science.

Yeah, seems somebody's butt dyno is reading rather optimistically.

Not rocket science; in fact, grounding systems are one big fat con-job. But they look nice! I imagine on a 20-yr old car that was driven in the snow belt, you might get an improvement if you scrape off some oxidation.

There are points on the eng that help when grounded. If you want to make up your own wires be my guess.. But like you said you want gain anything. I guess not when you just have wires running all over the eng. :rolleyes:

If you guys want some help on throttle response get the Black Bettys kit.

http://images29.fotki.com/v1034/phot...iley_14-vi.gif

Whatever.... Cognitive dissonance - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

From "Betty's site:

Q: What components does this set ground?
A: Betty's Garage wiring sets ground the negative battery terminal to the chassis, the engine block to chassis on both the right and left cylinder banks of the engine block, and both throttle bodies to the negative battery terminal. Only one throttle body on 1st generation G35s because they only have one.

Uhhhh...exactly what my routing does. TB to chassis to Battery. It makes no difference to skip the Chassis part..You clearly do not understand the concept here..

Electrical Engineer here... agreed!
Great link by the way :icon18:

M4 have you taken the injens off and noticed any difference?

Keep it in the power band... that's what the close ratio gear box is for?

I took the Injens off and no difference.

Though this latest mod seems to have solved everything and then some. :icon17::p