The Definitive Differential Thread
 

Parts Required for a Diff Upgrade

• 1x - Limited-Slip Differential (choose type from details below)
• 2x - 1L Diff Oil - (Motul 75/90)
• 2x - 38440-0C000 - Differential Side Bearing
• 2x - 38342-P9010 - Differential Side Oil Seal
• 2x - 11026-4N200 - Differential Drain Plug Crush Washer
• 1x - 38120-0C000 - Carrier Bearing Assembly
• 1x - 38140-0C00A - Pinion Bearing
• 1x - 38189-P0117 - Drive Oil Seal

Differential Types

• Viscous Type
  • OEM
• Torsen Type (Gear Driven)
  • Quaife $1,100
    • Different part # necessary if Factory VLSD is installed
    • Lifetime Warranty?
    • no harsh engagement
    • no special oil
    • no break in period
• Clutch Type
  • Cusco Type RS - $1,440
  • Kaaz Super Q - $1,250 <-- 1.5 or 2 way
  • OS Giken - $1,600 <-- Low maint / Smooth, Customizable by Manufacturer
  • Nismo GT Pro - $2,800 *cough

Differential Adjustability (Clutch-Type LSD are adjustable)

• 60% lock: DD and track fun on street tires.
• 80% lock: Street and track on wide high grip street tires or R comps.
• 100% lock: Drifting or a track only car on slicks.

Related Parts (to change while the diff is open)

• Whiteline Diff Bushings - $110 <-- Better / quieter for DD
• SPL Solid Bushings $160
• Finned Diff Cover $140
• Upgraded Diff fluid
• 4.08 Gears - $550
• Z1 Motorsports Differential Upgrade Kit $275
  • Whiteline Front/Rear Diff Bushings - $100
  • Finned Diff Cover - $140
  • 2 Liters Diff Fluid
  • 1 Tube Silicone

Related Info

• DIY: Rear Differential Oil Change
• Track Day Best practices

just a headup, the Cusco LSD can be found way cheaper than this somewhere else. (other forum)
I got 1300$ shipped to Canada..

and you mentioned some adjustability beside the other but not the Cusco...
It can be set 1.5 to 2.0 by the user & manufacturer (different part # ) and also has similar adjustability of the Os siken with the same low maintenance. and the factory is friendly enough to help with other parts to fine tune the LSD .. not like the other higher priced one.

Don't forget the bearing, differential side (diff bearings)
Nissan P# 38440 x 2
$45.70 each at courtesy nissan

And bolt, drive gear (Ring gear bolts)
P# 38102 x10
$2.79 each

These are both essential when changing the LSD and for a final gear swap just the bolts are essential.

Also want to include changing the shaft assembly if you are swapping from a vlsd. Some diff kits include it. Some don't. Os giken does not include one.

Can we get a part list of what is needed to swap a base diff for the VLSD? I am getting ready to swap just the diff and know I need the axle stub from the Sport Package, but do the bearings need to be replaced? shims?

Sub'd...

Z1 Motorsports can tell you what you need when you BUY one from them, or you can e-mail?

Subbed. OS Giken has the most clutch plates too

Updated with parts required for installation. :tiphat:

I highly Recommend getting upgraded diff bushings as I blew my stock one after 3 autox days and only a month after I installed my quaife LSD.

Subbed and repped. Nice thread :)

:tiphat:

Never mind, I am blind today. Nice thread!

Hi guys, nice informative thread!

I recently built my 7AT gearbox at Level 10 rated up to 1000bhp and the engine is on the way to Kyle @ IPP for a stage 2 build rated up to 850rwhp. I will also transplant the GReddy TT kit and supporting mods (injectors, fuel rails, fuel pump, oil coolers, oil pan etc) form current engine to the built one.

Now to be able to put all that power done nicely, perhaps I should do something about the diff, shouldn't I? :)

What do you guys recommend changing?

Thanks a lot!

You definitely want a diff, if you drive a lot, get a quaiffe. If you don't mind race car, get another diff. You MIGHT want to hear down your car too so that it'll be easier to actually USE the power you're making...

Thanks!

Forgot to mention I'm on the 7AT sport model, so I my oem diff is the VLSD, isn't it? :)

What other bits do I need with the Quaiffe LSD?

I was looking on the Z1 page here:

http://www.z1motorsports.com/g37_370...oducts_id=2397

Yes it is. You need other crap I think... I don't know... I always thought Quaiffe made a separate model for the 7AT so you wouldn't need to buy new stub axles... But I'm not sure. The experts have gotta fill you in

Must be this one then:

https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart...on.php?II=7066

http://www.trak-life.com/basic-intro...erentials-lsd/

Found this helpful as I didn't really know what the difference means..

You should add WaveTrac as a diff option to this thread. $1295

Looking to do this mod in January. I have a base AT with an open diff. When I contacted Z1, they mentioned that I have to switch the pumpkin to a manual to get the Quaife to work with 4.08 gears. What have other folks done with their 7ATs to go from base open to Quaife plus gears?

OK. Update. I just bought a VLSD pumpkin from an 09 manual on Ebay. Fortunately, the parts company is here in Dallas. They didn't have the shafts available. Will have to get them separately. May have it rebuilt with 4.08s or just go with the factory 3.69.

I think I know the one you got, boy pricey :shakes head:, but it is a mod that is worth it. Enjoy :tiphat:

If you need a little help deciding on what gears would better suit you, send me a pm, I have something that might help ;)

I will pick up the diff this afternoon. The online pics of the car look like a manual base. If so, it may be an open diff. I noted the part numbers on another thread regarding the open and VLSD. I believe the open is 38301-EG53D and the VLSD is 38301-EH52D.

Will send a pm for parts. Will probably go ahead and rebuild it before install. I could also put it on a pallet and ship it freight to someone who can rebuild it for me.

That's the only way it should be done. Spend the money & set it up will everything you want in it & install it once. do it right, not again. ;) It also gives you time to budget out your build as well as you can take your time getting it right then install it when it's complete.

Is this something that is mostly recommended for people with the stock open diff? Is it worth upgrading from the stock vlsd if you don't track your car?

OK. Here is where I'm at today. Turns out the diff I bought is a manual open, which is probably better since my car is an auto open.

Install is a whole new set of hurdles. I can't find anyone in Dallas to do the work. Seems most performance shops shy away from diff/gear upgrades on the Z. Also, I called Z1 and they were less than enthusiastic about sending them the man diff and having them upgrade to Quaife and 4.08s. They also wanted the car on site so they could switch the companion flange.

I talked with Whitehead Performance in Toronto and they were very helpful. I'll ship the dif to them after the Holidays. They indicated this is not such a big deal and noted they have done several of these before. The companion flange is only $90 and can be installed while they have the guts out of the diff for the upgrade.

I am hopeful that my stock stub shafts will work when I get the diff swapped. If anyone would like to chime in and offer guidance or share their experience, that would be great.

Curious if any SES codes will be thrown when the gears are upgraded. I understand cruise control will be voided. I believe ECU Tek said they can get that back with their tune.

Just be sure they adjust the lash properly or the diff will be shredded

So your diff came without shafts? If it did come with shafts, there is no need to change them out. Anyway there should be no codes thrown after the swap. Also cruise control might work, mine does. Do a flash reset via the tap dance method, then when you start the car turn the cruise button on first before moving the vehicle. This method worked for me & I have never have my cruise not work.

HTH

Yes, diff came without shafts. I have an open diff 7AT and bought an open diff 6MT. From what I have read on here, it should be a direct swap. Getting parts together now. Quaife should be here next week. I am buying the 4.08 gears from Courtesy Nissan along with new bearings, seals and flange. Plan to get whiteline bushings as well. I found a shop here in Dallas that can do the install.

Thanks for the tip on CC. I have used the tap dance method before to clear SES codes from my FI TPs.

So are the bolt,drive gear required?..I don't see it on post #1. I don't see it on Z1 site either.

an FYI for people who are confused by axle stubs and what not.. if you are upgrading from a VLSD to an OSG/Wavetrac/Cusco etc you'll need an additional driver side stub (part #38220-JK01B or 38220-1NC1B) or you need to machine your passenger side stub to remove the tapered part

heres some pics that helped me figure things out pulled from nasaforums.com

a. driver/pass stub with a tapered end from an open diff or passenger stub on a VLSD (part #38220-JK01A)
http://i.imgur.com/DZZ5PSp.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/z9ctBhp.jpg

b. driver side stub on a VLSD (you will need to buy one of these if you're going from an open diff to VLSD (part #38220-JK01B or 38220-1NC1B)
http://i.imgur.com/t8T5g5q.jpg

c. inside of the diff where the stub's lock into place
http://i.imgur.com/yl2SflY.jpg

I didn't had any issue when I installed the Cusco LSD into the VLSD diff.

ok, not cusco then :tup:, i was just naming off LSD's that supposedly drop into the base diff

You have the AT - correct?
 

You have an automatic transmission - correct?

I have a base touring with an open diff. What stub axles do I need?

depends on the diff you're going to upgrade to. my picture guide above literally tells you what you'd need! :tup: read it carefully. its a bit confusing, but i explained it pretty well

the Z1 differential bearing and seal kit includes a "Pinion Crush Sleeve." Is this part necessary?

Yes

What is its part number?


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