No start, but cranks

Akurei · 04-24-2014, 11:34 AM

If you jumped your car again does it start up? If I didn't overlook anything and you are not pulling codes, it is probably because your alternator is not charging your battery while running, or rather it's not powering your electrical system. So your battery is taking the beating and your car dies as the battery doesn't have enough juice to keep the car running, however, it can still crank the car but not have enough power to start the car.

Could be as simple as that, but dunno. Hope this helps and that it is something as small

Chuck33079 · 04-24-2014, 11:36 AM

Maybe toss a known good battery in? These things get wierd with low batteries. That wouldn't be the main cause, but it would rule something out.

SouthArk370Z · 04-24-2014, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Akurei

If you jumped your car again does it start up? If I didn't overlook anything and you are not pulling codes, it is probably because your alternator is not charging your battery while running, or rather it's not powering your electrical system. So your battery is taking the beating and your car dies as the battery doesn't have enough juice to keep the car running, however, it can still crank the car but not have enough power to start the car.

Could be as simple as that, but dunno. Hope this helps and that it is something as small

That sounds like something worth pursuing. Put a voltmeter on the battery and make sure it is charged and watch the dash voltmeter to verify alternator is working properly. Might be worthwhile to have the battery tested under load.

Chuck33079 · 04-24-2014, 11:42 AM

An electrical system issue could make sensors read screwy, so it's worth investigating.

Joepro · 04-24-2014, 11:47 AM

yup running 100% fine, the weather was crappy yesterday so I took the civic to work, after work I came home to get the car, it cranked and the battery got weak after about 3 tries so I hooked up the jumper, it fired on the first turn over and ran for 5 minutes and ran fine, and then it just shut off and will not restart since, with the jumper hooked up.

SouthArk370Z · 04-24-2014, 11:47 AM

Have you checked the electrolyte level in the battery?

Edit: levels - there are 6 cells in a car battery.

MyKindaGuise · 04-24-2014, 11:53 AM

Check to make sure no harness's are melted. Transmission harness is somewhat close to all that exhaust side piping...I think haven't seen a BP kit in person...but I melted mine into a solid mass on the dyno. Anyways make sure nothing is melted...if the transmission position sensors wiring grounds out or anything the car will crank but never start. But with that you should have codes...But my guess is electrical/sensor issue. Check fuses as well.

Akurei · 04-24-2014, 12:01 PM

Your battery could be dead as well. I would take the battery out and take it to a local auto parts store like autozone, oreillys, napa etc and let them do a Battery Stablization test. If it fails to hold a charge then the battery can't maintain its voltage and can no longer be stabilized.

Fuses are a good thing to check first. If the battery ends up being dead, get the new one, put it in, start the car if it starts, or try jumping and check your voltage reading on your instrument panel, it should be around 13-14 volts if the alternator is good. A battery only remains at 12.76 volts -+15.

Joepro · 04-24-2014, 12:24 PM

Agm battery its not cranking slow after I juice the battery it just cranks slow after I tried 10 times

Chuck33079 · 04-24-2014, 12:26 PM

Well, if you're convinced the electrical system is OK the next thing to check is the cam sensor. Do you know someone with a Z who will let you use theirs for a minute to see if that solves it?

BTW, my money still says it's an electrical issue somewhere in there.

MacCool · 04-24-2014, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joepro

I will, just all the hits are coming at once, my pressure plate broke a few weeks ago, having a terrible time with my z1 2 piece rotors, and now this, just frustrating, but its the life I chose! will it read rpm if the engine is not running and just cranking? That seems to be the kicker.

I'm sympathetic that your ambitious project car is causing you headaches. I've been there....the reason that both of the 370Z's I've owned have remained entirely stock, and completely headache-free.

Joepro · 04-24-2014, 01:23 PM

Its worth it, trust me everytime the BOV sounds off I smile :: Just glad we recently hired a 10 year Nissan tech...I took him over on our lunch break, he said Nissan ECUs are a PITA with setting codes. We hard reset the ecu, he checked a few things and then we cranked it over and over again, between tries we reset the ecu with the scanner. After the third try it finally frigging coded p0335 crank sensor, it so flipping hard to see from the top we cant tell if I melted the harness or the sensor just went, now I got to find a way to get it over to the shop.

Chuck33079 · 04-24-2014, 01:24 PM

Is it the crank sensor that's the cheaper one of the two?

Joepro · 04-24-2014, 01:38 PM

90 bucks from Nissan, the problem will be installation, I got to find a way to get it over to the shop so I can lift it up to see if I melted the harness or the sensor just pooped out. I wondering it I damaged it or hopnig I did when I put the trans back in, but I drove over 700 miles round trip to get tuned, multiple dyno pulls etc. Just glad it did not die on me somewhere else, gonna have to seriously think about a strategy if the car bones out while I am away from home.

Chuck33079 · 04-24-2014, 01:39 PM

The car's at your house? Is there any way you can just swap the sensor over at home?

04-24-2014, 11:34 AM	#16 (permalink)
Akurei Enthusiast Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: California Posts: 319 Drives: 14 370z Rep Power: 11	If you jumped your car again does it start up? If I didn't overlook anything and you are not pulling codes, it is probably because your alternator is not charging your battery while running, or rather it's not powering your electrical system. So your battery is taking the beating and your car dies as the battery doesn't have enough juice to keep the car running, however, it can still crank the car but not have enough power to start the car. Could be as simple as that, but dunno. Hope this helps and that it is something as small red z and Chuck33079 like this.

04-24-2014, 11:36 AM	#17 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29539	Maybe toss a known good battery in? These things get wierd with low batteries. That wouldn't be the main cause, but it would rule something out. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

04-24-2014, 11:42 AM	#19 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29539	An electrical system issue could make sensors read screwy, so it's worth investigating. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

04-24-2014, 11:47 AM	#20 (permalink)
Joepro A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Athens ohio Posts: 1,213 Drives: Company car Rep Power: 34	yup running 100% fine, the weather was crappy yesterday so I took the civic to work, after work I came home to get the car, it cranked and the battery got weak after about 3 tries so I hooked up the jumper, it fired on the first turn over and ran for 5 minutes and ran fine, and then it just shut off and will not restart since, with the jumper hooked up. __________________ Swift\|Koni\|SPC\| FI CBE\|Z1\|Stillen\|Sbend\|Zspeed\|R/T Tuned\|523 whp\|458 tq\|10.5 psi\|SOLD Joepro's Journal\|Joepro's Boosted Performance Build \|Pittsburgh-Western-Pa-Ohio-Wv-Group Last edited by Joepro; 04-24-2014 at 11:50 AM.

04-24-2014, 11:47 AM	#21 (permalink)
SouthArk370Z Premium Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: South Arkansas Posts: 8,435 Drives: 2014 Challenger Rep Power: 324198	Have you checked the electrolyte level in the battery? Edit: levels - there are 6 cells in a car battery. Chuck33079 likes this. __________________ Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

04-24-2014, 11:53 AM	#22 (permalink)
MyKindaGuise A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 2,029 Drives: 11' 370z Sprt M6 Rep Power: 19	Check to make sure no harness's are melted. Transmission harness is somewhat close to all that exhaust side piping...I think haven't seen a BP kit in person...but I melted mine into a solid mass on the dyno. Anyways make sure nothing is melted...if the transmission position sensors wiring grounds out or anything the car will crank but never start. But with that you should have codes...But my guess is electrical/sensor issue. Check fuses as well. __________________ \|445whp398tq\| \|BW S259 Turbo\|3" Downpipe\Exhaust\|ID1000\|AeroMotive\|Tial\|EcuTek\|BC BR\|S0-4\|MaffFab\| MKGs-Single-Turbo

04-24-2014, 12:01 PM	#23 (permalink)
Akurei Enthusiast Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: California Posts: 319 Drives: 14 370z Rep Power: 11	Your battery could be dead as well. I would take the battery out and take it to a local auto parts store like autozone, oreillys, napa etc and let them do a Battery Stablization test. If it fails to hold a charge then the battery can't maintain its voltage and can no longer be stabilized. Fuses are a good thing to check first. If the battery ends up being dead, get the new one, put it in, start the car if it starts, or try jumping and check your voltage reading on your instrument panel, it should be around 13-14 volts if the alternator is good. A battery only remains at 12.76 volts -+15.

04-24-2014, 12:24 PM	#24 (permalink)
Joepro A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Athens ohio Posts: 1,213 Drives: Company car Rep Power: 34	Agm battery its not cranking slow after I juice the battery it just cranks slow after I tried 10 times __________________ Swift\|Koni\|SPC\| FI CBE\|Z1\|Stillen\|Sbend\|Zspeed\|R/T Tuned\|523 whp\|458 tq\|10.5 psi\|SOLD Joepro's Journal\|Joepro's Boosted Performance Build \|Pittsburgh-Western-Pa-Ohio-Wv-Group

04-24-2014, 12:26 PM	#25 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29539	Well, if you're convinced the electrical system is OK the next thing to check is the cam sensor. Do you know someone with a Z who will let you use theirs for a minute to see if that solves it? BTW, my money still says it's an electrical issue somewhere in there. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

04-24-2014, 01:23 PM	#27 (permalink)
Joepro A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Athens ohio Posts: 1,213 Drives: Company car Rep Power: 34	Its worth it, trust me everytime the BOV sounds off I smile :: Just glad we recently hired a 10 year Nissan tech...I took him over on our lunch break, he said Nissan ECUs are a PITA with setting codes. We hard reset the ecu, he checked a few things and then we cranked it over and over again, between tries we reset the ecu with the scanner. After the third try it finally frigging coded p0335 crank sensor, it so flipping hard to see from the top we cant tell if I melted the harness or the sensor just went, now I got to find a way to get it over to the shop. __________________ Swift\|Koni\|SPC\| FI CBE\|Z1\|Stillen\|Sbend\|Zspeed\|R/T Tuned\|523 whp\|458 tq\|10.5 psi\|SOLD Joepro's Journal\|Joepro's Boosted Performance Build \|Pittsburgh-Western-Pa-Ohio-Wv-Group

04-24-2014, 01:24 PM	#28 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29539	Is it the crank sensor that's the cheaper one of the two? __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

04-24-2014, 01:38 PM	#29 (permalink)
Joepro A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Athens ohio Posts: 1,213 Drives: Company car Rep Power: 34	90 bucks from Nissan, the problem will be installation, I got to find a way to get it over to the shop so I can lift it up to see if I melted the harness or the sensor just pooped out. I wondering it I damaged it or hopnig I did when I put the trans back in, but I drove over 700 miles round trip to get tuned, multiple dyno pulls etc. Just glad it did not die on me somewhere else, gonna have to seriously think about a strategy if the car bones out while I am away from home. __________________ Swift\|Koni\|SPC\| FI CBE\|Z1\|Stillen\|Sbend\|Zspeed\|R/T Tuned\|523 whp\|458 tq\|10.5 psi\|SOLD Joepro's Journal\|Joepro's Boosted Performance Build \|Pittsburgh-Western-Pa-Ohio-Wv-Group Last edited by Joepro; 04-24-2014 at 01:41 PM.

04-24-2014, 01:39 PM	#30 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29539	The car's at your house? Is there any way you can just swap the sensor over at home? __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

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