It's really entertaining. I've got an oil leak I've got to chase down tomorrow so I didn't drive it much after the tune

Can you just get away with a new flywheel?

Well it stopped raining so I went out and pulled one of the shims, it has 2 shims in it, started and idles the best it ever has, I have always had a bit of a "wonky" idle as long as I can remember, its frigging perfect. I cannot hear the teeth hitting the sensor either...Im now thinking this has been an issue from day one of the flywheel and the sensor just now failed...I am still going to pull it out at work tomorrow and ispect if the groove is any deeper, if not I will repair the groove, visually inspect the flywheel from the check plate and if I see nothing conclusive I will order a backup sensor to keep in the car and boost on!

Do u need the cable to data log?

I know he needa to buy one from UpRev. Nobody should have a boosted factory NA car without it.

:)

I have a cable hence why I asked if he needed it to test and data log tomorrow

This is now a mechanical issue for sure, I will not need the cable. Im thinking its been happening for some time, Ill know later today. im gonna start looking for a used cipher cable, the way I read the faq is I can use it, just will not be able to edit the tune, which I do not want to do anyway.

I looked through the check plate, the teeth you can see were hitting the sensor have some wear marks on them, it looks as if the tooth ring has a small gap on one side compared to the other, I was looking at how the ring is attach vs the steel flywheel and my g, what a design difference. It is running fine but my confidence in running the car is not there, I will drop the trans out Tuesday and see what exactly is going on, if it is what I suspect I will see if South bend will help me out, I will switch to the steel flywheel, its about 4.5lbs heavier but if it means reliability ill take it...

I have confirmed the reluctor ring on the flywheel has indeed warped and or crack under 2 of the bolts.

With that pic, if you were to spin the flywheel it would "wobble"? That's scary. I have the SB steel flywheel, and had it resurfaced once after an organic clutch disk welded to it. I don't think I ever had any flywheel issues.

no the wheel itself is fine, its the ring they bolted on the back for the sensor, it is too skinny in my opinion, it needs to be wider in order to resist warping. I really do not want to shell out for a giken, plus this is still a street car, shane has a twin disk in his neon and its horrible to drive on the street, and he has shattered 2 twin disks already... If the pictures are accurate on the website, look how much wider the reluctor ring is on their steel flywheel...maybe I will go with that if they cut me a deal, but dropping the trans is getting old...

http://www.zspeedperformance.com/images/179_0202.jpg

They should warranty their product. If so put the credit to a steel one

They decided it is too old, beyond the warranty period, which it is, but once this clutch is wore out its the last southbend product that will go on my car. They offered to rebuild it at a resonable rate. I decided to take it apart, it cracked alright. Got a steel flywheel on the way. My guess is it with that little metal on the wheel side of the ring it could not take the tq/heat my motor is outputting...still BS as far as I know I was an early adopter with this wheel, I nought it not long after the kit was released, thinking if you go FI do not use the ALM flywheel.

Wow. That sucks man. Glad I decided to go with a steel flywheel.

Do you remember where the CPS was located on the car?