I don't have the tuner package and I've got a cable. You can use the cable to switch maps and run Cypher even with the standard license.

I've been told that's why they discontinued cipher that never to do something on the ecu now...maybe if I got a used cipher cable?

That's not how I understand this works. If you have a cable you pay them $200 and they send you a new cable management map to load on the cable that makes it a tuner cable. When I originally got my cable it was only a Cipher cable with no ability to load/remove the tune. I called UpRev and they sent me an excel file showing which numbers to change in the cable manager.

I'll probably make the switch to a tuner cable shortly now that I'm boosted. I'm going to discuss with my tuner tomorrow to see if I'm just wasting money.

I don't think there ever was a difference in cables, just the license stored on them. And I don't follow the first part of your post, Joepro.

i have a uprev tuner kit or whatever the $599 option was with a cable laying in my tool box. not sure if it works on others cars but i have one if it helps?

Cipher isn't vehicle specific from my understanding, so you could help him take some data logs.

well if someone know it works i got the cable and software all loaded on my old laptop. havent used it since i bought the thing and had AAM tune it.

Per the FAQ on the uprev site, you can help him out.

:iagree:

The cable doesn't care what car it's in. All it cares is the car has a valid license.

Im gonig off what I was told by uprev, they said cipher cables are no longer produced and the licenses are on the ecu itself from what I gathered, so the license on the ecu has to be updated, then the cable will work, whereas the license was on the cable.

well then lol

if your problem persists until the weekend joepro i do believe i should have time to run out that way if needed. i think the software can be downloaded off their site if you want to save the data logs right to your laptop or whatever.

even though i already helped you get cheap tires lol :tiphat:

He can even use your laptop and you email him the logs.

soooooo since the license on my cable is technically in use on my ECU my cable cannot data log another Z? is that what i'm gathering here?

You will be able to datalog his Z per the FAQ on Uprev's website.

Gonna replace the crank sensor first, Ill know tomorrow if it shows up and I can reach it.

sounds good. i just didnt want to take the time to drive out there for it not to work and watse both mine and his time.

pm me if i'm needed. probably easier if i just gave you my number since on the weekends i dont check the forums as much after i leave work on fridays.

off work in 40 minutes gonna go try to pull the sensor out tonight to see if it was damaged, then ill just have to fight to put the new one in :)

My car did the exact same thing as you, mine was the CPS. replaced it. haven't had a problem since.

I like the sound of that!

Got it out...

http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...psonlv3q5p.jpg

picture from courtesy parts...

http://www.courtesyparts.com/images/...731-Z34002.jpg

yeah thats F'd, that is F'd right up. now you get to try and figure out why the trigger ring is F'ing your' crank sensor right in the A or it will do it again.

my cousin seemed to think it is heat related...the flywheel has been on the car for 15k...southbend alm fly.

the groove in the sensor looks thinner than the teeth on that flywheel damage could have been from your oem one before you switched and it just finally gave out. just in case check the teeth on the flywheel for wear marks maybe one of the teeth has a burr on it. you might be able to see through the crank sensor hole or the inspection window on the bottom of the trans. otherwise take the old sensor and put a couple layers o tape on the tip and shove it back in, then turn the engine over take it out and see if your tape is still in one piece.

Could it be related to your clutch/flywheel failure?

I doubt it has anything to do with the plate failure, I wish I would have looked at the sensor while the trans was out...the teeth on the southbend flywheel are thin to my recollection, there is not a chance I could see down the hole...maybe I should try to put a washer where it bolts in, just a small copper crush one like a drain plug gasket, should move it away enough and still read, just so I can drive it to the shop to lift it and look through the check plate.

tough to see in this pic but you can see the difference in the teeth.

http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps8a5252e1.jpg

ah i was looking at their race steel flywheels those have bigger teeth. In that case it it very possible that your southbend struck again. OS Giken bro, OS Giken (and I normally hate over priced JDM chit but this thing one me over)

I think ill put a washer on it for now, see if it works. I will also inspect closely the new sensor vs the old to see if there is any differences.

So whats the verdict?

Sucks that you're having all those problems. Just a few weeks ago, I was reading your thread when your clutch started making all sorts of funny noises.

Got my fingers crossed that its something simple.

That's why I still think it's all somehow related. If not, it's one hell of a coincidence.

Verdict is life hates my azz. There is now undoubtedly an issue with the pickup teeth on the flywheel. I installed the new sensor with a small copper washer and the car would spudder but would not start. So I took the washer off, and the car fired right up, but I shut it off seconds later because I could HEAR the ring grinding the plastic off the new sensor, JFC. I ran back to work and the techs had some really thin shims, 4 equaled the copper washer, I pulled the sensor, which now has a slight groove in it, and put three shims on, and the car starts and runs poorly, but I cannot hear the teeth grinding the sensor. At this point the headers were too hot for me to reach back in there. Tomorrow after work I will remove a shim and then drive it over and park it at the shop, which is less than a mile. Monday ill get it on a rack and pull the check plate to see if I can visually see any issues, regardless it sounds as if the trans is coming out AGAIN. I really do not want to drop 2k on a OS Giken twin disk, Shane at work has a clutch masters twin in his 550 whp neon and it drives like $%^& on the street...Im not sure the JWT is up to the task of holding this power...I ran ACT in my 350z with no issues, I might see what they have to offer. This is getting stupid.

http://www.the370z.com/parts-sale-pr...ng-clutch.html

Hell of a price.

I'm running Z1 full face and light weight fly wheel. Held up just fine on the dyno today with a bunch of torque

My problem with 370z and 350z clutches is almost all the single disks all use the z32 pressure plate, so I have to give southbend a pass on that, considering its the same plate as every other kit, I had and issue with a z1 product that left me a bit sour...plus the new clutch did fine on the dyno, it is holding like a champ at my power level, there is no stress on the teeth for the sensor, how that would break is just astounding...but I do not know yet.

what did you put down? Similar to mine?

I have too much time and money already invested in this car to put a used clutch in it, whatever goes in is new. Agreed however, good price.

Dynojet equivalent I put down 450 ftlbs

Congrats! Fun isn't it? Haha, in the end its worth the downtime to me, just pisses me off!