Oil Filter Sandwich Plate
 

I am in the middle buying parts to replace my dash triple gauge. (AFR, Oil Temp, & Water Temp for those curious because I am staying NA) I was looking into ways to install the new oil temp sensor and found these. Is there a better way to go about installing the sensor, a better location for a more accurate reading, or is this as good as any? I am still under warranty and my dealership took issue with installing an aftermarket oil cooler so that is not really an option for me. They didn't say no. They just said they would prefer I didn't modify the cooling system.

Oil Filter Sandwich Adapters

Does anyone have any experience with these? Would this cause any clearance issues? If you think this would work fine, what thread would I need for a 2012 370Z Sport MT?

Any help would be appreciated. I did a search but did not see anything for "filter sandwich plates".

If you're staying NA, what's the point of the AFR gauge? I'd sooner swap that for oil pressure.

Since I am trying to keep my warranty, I am not going to get a tune until my warranty runs out. I want to make sure that I do not lean my car out with too many breather mods. Down the road I do plan to get an aftermarket intake manifold and long tube headers, which will still require tuning. That is why I see value in the AFR meter. I will probably install the oil pressure gauge in my A-Pillar soon but that is another project. For now (next few months), I would assume that the check engine light would come on if oil pressure dropped to a point of concern or oil temps would begin to rise inexplicably.

Nope. If the light on the dash comes on the motor is toast. You won't have time to shut the car down to avoid damage. Go have a few dyno pulls done with the tailpipe sniffer in if you want to check the AFR. It'll be fine with basic breather mods.

In another post I was pointed to this link when I asked if the car would be alright with CAI, IM, LTH, & CBE. In summation, without a tune, it says no. Two breather mods is okay, three is risky, and four is bad. I will definitely bump the A Pillar oil pressure gauge to next project on the list though.

http://www.the370z.com/tuning/55417-...ns-thread.html

I'm still a little confused. If you are unwilling to get a tune, what's the AFR gauge going to show you that you can't find out with a few dyno pulls?


And FYI the oil cooler will have no effect on warranty. You need to find a new dealer.

The main reason that the dealer took issue with the oil cooler was because of the climate. In the winter I rarely get to 180 and even with a sandwich plate, the oil cooler will still encourage even more over cooling because their is still some flow through based on the reviews that I have seen. Also the AFR meter is cheaper and more convenient than dyno-ing every time I put a mod on. The only issue with it is that it takes up valuable real estate on the dash of the car.

Dude just spend the extra money to get the UpRev cable and find a tuner that will provide you with both your stock (back to stock) and tuned map. If you have to take it into the dealer just flash it back to stock it takes like two minutes.

Put a block off plate over the cooler in winter months. You want an oil cooler if you're going to be pushing the car.

I can tell you my AFR gauge was a lot more expensive than going and getting a few dyno pulls to check the afr after you install the first couple of mods. People have been fine with CAI,LTH and CBE. Do those and then wait to put the manifold on until you can tune it. What were you going to do, put them on one at a time, and if the gauge showed it being too lean take the parts back off? That seems like a lot of extra work to end up at the same place.

I'd buy an oil cooler with a thermostatic sandwich plate so it doesn't open until its past temp. Mine opens at 175

And you can tap into the sandwich plate for oil temp and pressure? Is that the best place to measure from or just the easiest?

I am sure there have been people who are fine with the CAI, LTH, & CBE but they may have been running too lean, causing a little bit of damage over a long period of time. I know the AFR meter is not nearly as useful on an NA car as an FI but having one and knowing that I am good makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside, knowing that I am not hurting the car. My plan was to put on LTH and if it was too lean for my comfort I would put back on either the mid pipe or the axle back or both until I was in the safe zone. I currently have CAI & CBE. Bottom line is I will have oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, and AFR so I will have all of the bases covered. I guess my main question at this point is would the filter sandwich plate work until I got an oil cooler? And would the temperature readings differ significantly between the locations? Or is there another place to tap into?

Depends on the plate. I have see some that have more than one 1/8NPT port for senders. I don't' recall seeing one that has multiple and a thermostat but it might exist. The one I bought only has one but it's a relocation one, not one that screws onto the block.

You can get accurate water temp and AFR from the OBDII. Oil pressure is the important one that you have to add a sensor for.

Maybe a scangauge? That would be the fast way to water temp, oil temp and AFR. Then just add in an oil pressure gauge.