4.08 FD difference?

JC671

Hey guys I'm at a point to where. I'm either gonna go full-on boost (turbo) or get a final drive. My question for those who have it already and have tested in the quarter mile. What is the difference?

How much time did the gears alone shave off given that everything else was left the same in a quarter mile? How many tenths-sec did it shave off your time? What was the difference in your 60ft times? What was the difference in your trap times?

I just want to get a good estimated ideal of it before I pull the trigger. Because if I'm not satisfied with it. I don't want to have to re-install the stock gearing when I eventually go boost.

I'm a 6MT sport. Those who have direct experience please chime in. Thanks

Also, if there are any higher ratios than the 4.08 gear please let me know where and what to get for those who have experience with them.

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1slow370

if you are going boost you will need to change it back or lower anyway because you will have 0 traction with turbos and a 4.08 if get gears go 4.33

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JC671

Understood. That's why I was trying to get data from those who already have gears and have ran the quarter mile with stock gearing vs 4.08 gears. It's either change gears and be satisfied or go full-on boost. Of course the price variation is one reason why I'm asking.

4.33? What final drive gear does that gear come from? Also where can I get it at? Links? Thanks bro.

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1slow370

some frontier 4 cyl. oh and nissan dealer 4wd front diff gear can't remember what year

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DEpointfive0

Go boost

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1slow370

boost will make you way faster than gearing

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JC671

Thanks and indeed...Problem is $$$$$ and time saving up. Not to mention all the added extras needed to run a setup properly. :-(

Anyone want to chime with with experience please on the difference gearing made to your 60ft, 1/4 mi. ET, and mph trap for reference?

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critical

it's not just gears, it's the differential (if you upgrade) that will make a huge difference. the fastest non boosted 370z's are running 12.2-13

official 1/4 mile track times

if you're looking for just 1/4 mile speed, the cheapest way to go is drag radials, differential, and then gears in that order.

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MrXistential

I just did OS Giken super lock with the 4.08 final drive. The final drive is great but not a replacement for a turbo set up. If you are looking for tenths of a second gain get the final drive. If you are looking for 1 or 2 seconds go turbo. But dont bother with the final drive if you are not upgrading the diff to the OS Giken. The OS Giken is sick. I have only had it on the car for 3 days and have yet to get the back end to step out. I have taken my car to places where I typically break traction...I have been stunned at the massive amount of grip the car has now.

Sorry no info on drag use but hope this helps.

JC671

Thanks for the link I've already read and viewed that thread. Most of the time its people with just the gears done with no baseline or their auto.

I've already done and have the full skinnies and drag radials. So that's covered. I may downgrade the sports rear brakes so I can run a full slick since out here in Guam even with drag radials its not the best. I'm looking for those who have done baselines in their cars with the same mods and then got gears and ran again with the same mods.

Why do you need to upgrade the differential if you already have the sports LSD? Now I know that its obviously best to do it all at once but OS Giken is $$$$ and not really needed for what I plan to do. No road course here. F.I. prototype car is a base model with their kit and just upgraded clutch and flywheel. They seem to be doing just fine and set the 1/4 mi. mark with an open differential.

Trust me I would love to be able to get the OS Giken but do not have the budget for that. Just trying to see what others have done with the FD. I'm still breaking loose all motor with just my 19x12 rears with 325 Nitto Invos on the streets (black top). On our track I won't even dare run the 1/4 mile with street tires no matter the brand. Mickey Thompson Street Drag radials II can't hook worth a donkey out here. I went with a full-semi slick in Hoosiers. But I'm really looking into downsizing the rotors and go full slicks.

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critical

i hook in first with 285 RE-11's, quaife diff., and energy suspension diff bushings. i'm running -2.5 degrees of camber as well. i'm also geared shorter than a 6mt with the 4.08, minus 5th gear.

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megalapagas

In for Info..

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L33T Z34

Woot he said above is correct. I've been stating it for years as well.

Anyway, Get the GIKEN (D-NB102061405-S) LSD over a lower final drive. But as others have already stated, why not do the final drive while installing the LSD? You say you ain't got the money for a good LSD, but want to buy a turbo kit

Here's my list on building a R200V. You'll find the Nissan part numbers for the final drives on 8.

I can get my rear end to kick out very slightly power shifting 2nd and 3rd even
with my solid AL rear diff mounts. I'm slightly over stock rwhp but still on the OEM sh!+ tires.

MrXistential

I actually bought the base because I knew I would be replacing the sport brakes and sport differential.

My mistake on the cost…I figured if you had $5k-$6k for a turbo then the diff would be in your budget.

I also figured grip off the line would be important for drag. I am running 2013 stock Z base 18s and tires and no longer have an issue with breaking traction(with traction control off). Changing rims, tires, and final drive will not make much of a difference if your diff fails to deliver the power to you rubber.

Just my thoughts for what it’s worth

JC671

The goal is to achieve 11's in a quarter mile with the least expensive budget. I've already learned that dumping $$$$$$ mods you always lose out in the in end. I had a fully-built Turbo RSX before and had to eat a huge loss when I had to expand to a larger vehicle due to growing family. Then, all I could afford was one car payment. Now, is a different story.

Btw that's 11's with gears, nitrous and all bolt ons. Also the difference in turbo and gears and a LSD is still short as I would only go with the FI Kit. So, as after everything is all said and done with supporting equipment. That's about 12-15K. I don't think an LSD and gears cost that much.

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