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JWT vs Southbend Clutch/flywheel set-up

Originally Posted by forza370z Also for you guys have JWT or Southbend for years, do you have thrust bearing issue or did you guys bypass the clutch start switch as

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Old 01-07-2015, 04:55 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by forza370z View Post
Also for you guys have JWT or Southbend for years, do you have thrust bearing issue or did you guys bypass the clutch start switch as you will dry start the bearing?
To be honest bro... I have no idea what the hell you are saying.. lol
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Old 01-07-2015, 09:43 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Zoren 370 View Post
^ which one do you like most? The JWT or the southbend?
Why the switch to a light weight to a 21lbs?
I had the JWT flywheel with a stock clutch for about 20k miles then swapped out for a Clutchmasters stage 1. After another 30k miles I broke a flywheel bolt and the head beat up the flywheel + clutch. It sounded HORRIBLE hearing that little bolt head bouncing around.

When I ordered the southbend flywheel +clutch I wasn't sure what broke yet so I just went with a different brand clutch and more durable steel flywheel.

Southbend flywheel is a bit quieter but to be honest the noise from the JWT never bothered me.

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Originally Posted by forza370z View Post
Do you feel the performance differences between the two?
Slight difference I guess but I hardly drive it much lately (weekend fun car) and no matter what I do, it always feels like a rocket ship compared to my daily driver.

I hope this helps.
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Old 01-07-2015, 11:01 PM   #33 (permalink)
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To be honest bro... I have no idea what the hell you are saying.. lol
Usually with upgraded pressure plate, there will be increased load/wear on the thrust washers in the crankshaft during the initial crank/start up because there is little oil to lubricate the washers before pressure gets a chance to build up. When thrust washers get worn out, crank walk will result. A lot of people bypass the clutch start switch when running high tq capacity clutch setup so that there is no load on the thrust washers during cranking.
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Old 01-07-2015, 11:23 PM   #34 (permalink)
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^ how to bypass the clutch start switch? Whats a crank walk?

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Old 01-07-2015, 11:33 PM   #35 (permalink)
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^ how to bypass the clutch start switch? Whats a crank walk?
You can bypass the clutch switch by modifying the wiring to the actual switch on the pedal. Crank walk is when the crank moves front to back, which is catastrophic to the engine.

I haven't heard of any crank walk issues on the 370z though. Im not saying that there havent been any, but I haven't heard of any cases.
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Old 01-07-2015, 11:57 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by thangcu35 View Post
Usually with upgraded pressure plate, there will be increased load/wear on the thrust washers in the crankshaft during the initial crank/start up because there is little oil to lubricate the washers before pressure gets a chance to build up. When thrust washers get worn out, crank walk will result. A lot of people bypass the clutch start switch when running high tq capacity clutch setup so that there is no load on the thrust washers during cranking.
Lol... wow, that sounds really scientific for a clutch install. I've never heard anything like that before.
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Old 01-08-2015, 12:53 AM   #37 (permalink)
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To be honest bro... I have no idea what the hell you are saying.. lol
Sorry I didn't explain this well... Lol. So basically most aftermarket clutches have high spring load that will add extra force on the main thrust bearings when you depress the clutch and cause premature main thrust bearing wear. If the thrust bearings wear out it will cause the "Crank Walk" and eventually engine failure. This won't happen immediately but after 30k-40k driving. My friend's 350 had this issue. He had to rebuild the engine. My mechanic friend who worked on vqs for 12 years told me bypass the clutch start switch is a must for those clutches(that includes the JWT). However, while I am doing researches I found Z1 pointed this out and claimed their clutch has the low spring load while still keeping the high clamping force which looks pretty promising to me. That's why I want to ask you guys that have JWT or Southbend clutches on your car for a while has encountered anything like that.

Here is the quote from Z1:

The pressure plate in this kit exceeds OEM specifications and features high clamping force while maintaining a low spring load. A low spring load eases lateral force on the main thrust bearings in your engine which is especially important during "dry" start-up. (High pressure plate spring loads result in high lateral forces being exerted on the crank when the pedal is depressed and the clutch is disengaged which can cause premature thrust bearing failure resulting in "crank walk" and ultimately engine failure).

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Old 01-08-2015, 02:09 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forza370z View Post
Sorry I didn't explain this well... Lol. So basically most aftermarket clutches have high spring load that will add extra force on the main thrust bearings when you depress the clutch and cause premature main thrust bearing wear. If the thrust bearings wear out it will cause the "Crank Walk" and eventually engine failure. This won't happen immediately but after 30k-40k driving. My friend's 350 had this issue. He had to rebuild the engine. My mechanic friend who worked on vqs for 12 years told me bypass the clutch start switch is a must for those clutches(that includes the JWT). However, while I am doing researches I found Z1 pointed this out and claimed their clutch has the low spring load while still keeping the high clamping force which looks pretty promising to me. That's why I want to ask you guys that have JWT or Southbend clutches on your car for a while has encountered anything like that.

Here is the quote from Z1:

The pressure plate in this kit exceeds OEM specifications and features high clamping force while maintaining a low spring load. A low spring load eases lateral force on the main thrust bearings in your engine which is especially important during "dry" start-up. (High pressure plate spring loads result in high lateral forces being exerted on the crank when the pedal is depressed and the clutch is disengaged which can cause premature thrust bearing failure resulting in "crank walk" and ultimately engine failure).

Z1 370Z / G37 Clutch and Flywheel Combo
I got a JWT Clutch and flywheel.Love it performance wise but not the chatter sounds like im running on no oil.Plus my CMC is going out
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Old 01-08-2015, 09:31 AM   #39 (permalink)
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I got a JWT Clutch and flywheel.Love it performance wise but not the chatter sounds like im running on no oil.Plus my CMC is going out
Did you change out the CSC and CMC when you install the clutch?
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Old 01-10-2015, 09:39 AM   #40 (permalink)
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I did a new CMC, the zspeed CSC, and stage two daily clutch and steel flywheel from south bend. I love it! Revs noticeably faster for me, but the chatter isn't terrible. I honestly think engagement is smoother than my stock clutch as well. I also have some peace of mind now that I've been autocrossing and tracking the car on a consistent basis. I switched it all out due to CSC failure around 35k miles.
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Old 01-10-2015, 10:07 AM   #41 (permalink)
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So you say it accelerates faster now? How much labor cost you to install everything for your clutch flywheel csc cmc etc.?
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Old 01-10-2015, 10:50 AM   #42 (permalink)
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I did a new CMC, the zspeed CSC, and stage two daily clutch and steel flywheel from south bend. I love it! Revs noticeably faster for me, but the chatter isn't terrible. I honestly think engagement is smoother than my stock clutch as well. I also have some peace of mind now that I've been autocrossing and tracking the car on a consistent basis. I switched it all out due to CSC failure around 35k miles.
That's good to hear. Do you know how much power the stage 2 can handle? Coz I might go boost at some point. That's also a main reason I want to upgrade the clutch.

Anyone has experience with the Southbend stage 3 daily kit? How it drives?
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Old 01-10-2015, 12:03 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Stage 2 daily is rated for 380lb/ft. I'm staying NA so that's plenty for me.
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Old 01-21-2015, 09:24 AM   #44 (permalink)
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When my stock CSC went out, I decided to replace the stock clutch and flywheel as well. I went with the JWT clutch and flywheel and the ZSpeed HD CSC. I agree with the previous posts on being able to go through the RPM's quicker and it was a noticeable difference, but there is more chatter noise while idling.

I did not know about this high spring load that will add extra force on the main thrust bearings. I appreciate the explanation about this. I was told and have heard to go with JWT over Southbend, but it really comes to personal preference.
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Old 01-21-2015, 10:23 AM   #45 (permalink)
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When my stock CSC went out, I decided to replace the stock clutch and flywheel as well. I went with the JWT clutch and flywheel and the ZSpeed HD CSC. I agree with the previous posts on being able to go through the RPM's quicker and it was a noticeable difference, but there is more chatter noise while idling.

I did not know about this high spring load that will add extra force on the main thrust bearings. I appreciate the explanation about this. I was told and have heard to go with JWT over Southbend, but it really comes to personal preference.
I am in the same shoes as you were. CSC is on it's way out. Decided to upgrade the clutch/FW as well. I just ordered Southbend stage 3 daily with the steel flywheel.
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