Very true. But what is killing me is how do you steal or have a motor stolen from you? I mean that is not something that you just have hanging out in the back yard.............and you would need an obvious means of moving it AND transporting it. But like they said in Talladega Nights, "That just happened!"

Motor #1 destroyed

Motor #2 at GTM being built

Motor #3 was a built motor sold to him from a "trusted" shop and stolen by a ex-employee of said shop. The short version...

Motor #3 was at the shop where he bought it. He didn't have time to pick up/move the motor to another location right away. In the meantime the shop fired one of their employees, and that employee took it saying it was his. No official bill of sale, his word vs. the shop/ex employee. Police report filed, lawsuit the only option. He would spend more in legal fees than its worth so he's chalked it up to an expensive mistake, lesson learned.

Damn that sux, baad luck dude just baad luck

oh see i thought it was

motor 1 destroyed and sent to gtm

motor 2 stolen

motor 3 in the car now its blown too

PPG do gearboxes ..... In terms of gearboxes ... I already have a Holinger HS6 in stock ... just waiting for all the other stuff to arrive (budget-bound at present, so it is a case of making purchases each month - donor VQ35HR engine assembly on the floor, steel-crank ordered, rods/pistons next then cams/valves/springs/retainer package and so it goes on - will take around 12 months to assemble all the bits).

In terms of dry-sump, there are 2 options ....

Dailey engineering, Dry Sump Oil Pumps
or
ARE, Armstrong Race Engine Systems - Cast Aluminum And Magnesium Components For Professional Racing

Apologies to the OP for going off-thread

Ouch

are doesn't list one for the hr/vhr? also there are not "traditional" gears in the oem pump it is just a gerotor assemble on the crank nose. google gerotor an just picture the center part as slipping over the crank nose. when the crank nose vibrates it slams the inner and outer gears together, this is why the only solution is to get it off the crank. The daileys pump spin around 87% crank spped so they are still moving very fast but they dont get crank nose vibrations. Daileys does this to make the pump smaller, the rest of the drysump industry runs more around 50% crank speed on a larger pump, so for the higher speed the daileys pump is more expensive, and because it is attached to the pan with a special flange you cant use a different pump.

I would sue that shop. No "official" bill of sale, WTF?!

:wtf2:

NISMO pump isnt going to save anyone's engine. It never did on the DE. The VR38 took the oil pump off the crankshaft for a reason!

And I assume this is why the Grand Am engines all run dry-sumps.

I just saw a few days ago a 370 dyno sheet going to 8100. The car fell flat on its face after 7600 rpm. Seems pointless anyways. I'll try to find the pic.

I know some guys that rev'd their DE oil pump over 9000 on the dyno, and it even made it down the 1/4 twice before it exploded!

Even if the engine power falls off, that doesnt mean the car isnt accelerating better than it would in the next gear up. For this is the purpose of a transmission! You have to work all the torque multiplication math to decide the best shift point after seeing dyno graph.

Most people aren't thinking that though. They're thinking peak numbers, more is better. Sure at the drag strip shifting after peak power will be better since when you re-engage you'll be higher in the power than if you shifted lower. But on the street or track I don't see it being worth it. That 600rpm and 1/10th a second you gained isn't going to turn your lap times into Michael Schumacher territory.

Besides, I'd have to pull logs and count time in this case which I've never done to truly know. If you're at 300hp peak at 7500rpm, shift and drop to 6000rpm and 270hp, how long does it take to get back to 7500? Then find the time it takes to go from 7500 to 8100 where you're losing power. Is that time greater or less vs the time it takes to go from 6000 to 6600? That should tell you no?

youre not considering the big picture of gearing... +/- 25ft-lb on your dyno graph, is nothing compared to the huge gains of being in a lower gear. Simply downshifting can generate several hundreds of ft lb of torque at the wheels, depending on which 2 gears you are comparing.

Your dyno graph would have to fall down *significantly* to not still be putting more power to the wheels than upshifting, especially in the lower gear ratios