CSC failures and helper spring removal
 

Just want to do a quick poll
How many people had their CSC fail and either removed or replaced the helper spring with the lighter one

I have a feeling the removal of the factory helper spring kills the CSC faster than normal. My factory CSC failed again after being replaced in August but only recently started failing after I removed the helper spring(less than 1k miles since doing that and less than 5k miles since JWT clutch and factory CSC was replaced), similar to back in August but it wasn't as fast(had helper spring removed for about 3k miles)

I replaced the plastic POS CSC before it failed. After bleeding the clutch and adjusting the MC clevis/clevis pin per FSM, I don't understand why anyone would want to remove the helper spring.
Keep in mind, I do have full SS clutch lines that come w/the Z speed CSC and I also removed the clutch line restrictor in the left fender well. My clutch pedal feels great now, nothing like it was stock w/a guess where it's gonna engage feel!

I don't think there is any correlation. Maybe clutch helper spring and clutch. But I can't see the difference on that being more than 50 miles quicker and even then there are so many variables

I don't see how there could be a correlation if nothing else is modified other than the spring. The maximum stroke of the MC is fixed, as is the maximum expansion of the CSC. The CSC fails because of the O-Ring on the sleeve of the CSC wearing and leaking allowing fluid to leak by.
I've seen one picture of a 370 CSC with an exploded plastic base but usually no pic of failed CSC surface. MC fails because the rubber/O-Rings in them wear and won't compress the fluid any longer. My CSC is at 18K and I keep the fluid refreshed and change it as soon as it turns from clear to Amber.