Need your opinion.. Oil Cooler Cover

blueranger

I just did the DIY Oil Cooler Cover but I am concerned with the Velcro melting from the cooler due to its intense heat.

For those that have done this can you Please review my install pics and let me know if I placed the Velcro in the correct location?

I appreciate your feedback!




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F.I. Stage 1 Twin Turbo #48 | E85 FlexFuel | Built 7AT | F.I. 34 Row Oil Cooler | F.I. Flex Plate | F.I. 19 row Trans Cooler | MT ET Street S/S | ECUTEK Tuned by Seb | RPM Roll Bar

blueranger

Also thought I would report that with this cover I now get the temps up to 200 degrees in a 39 degree weather.

Prior to the cover I averaged 160-180 with my 25 Row Cooler.

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F.I. Stage 1 Twin Turbo #48 | E85 FlexFuel | Built 7AT | F.I. 34 Row Oil Cooler | F.I. Flex Plate | F.I. 19 row Trans Cooler | MT ET Street S/S | ECUTEK Tuned by Seb | RPM Roll Bar

falconfixer

When I ran an oil cooler that is how I had the velcro for the block-off. No issues at all.

IDZRVIT

Or you could use some tie straps at each corner vice velcro strips.

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wstar

It depends on the velcro you use: some of the crappy brands/types will melt, some of the better ones won't. I even had 3M's good velcro melt on me (the adhesive melted really, not the strip itself) at one point, but it did so during the summer while the plate was off the car and I was running very hot track days.

What I do these days is just block off a large chunk of the front grill itself for cold drives. Sure it reduces flow to the intakes as well, but if you're just trying to survive cold weather and get oil/water up to temps faster, it's much easier. If you have the stock front grill with the big fins: cut an appropriately-sized rectangle of thin Aluminum sheet from the hardware store, drill little holes in the corners, paint it black, and then use zip-ties through the holes and around the fins...

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BuckeyeZ

Is that a painted piece of cardboard? I think you may have bigger issues than melted velcro.....

I used a painted piece of metal for mine.

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SPOHN

I've replaced my Velcro once in two years. Works great. Helps to use a adhesive promoter as well.

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scionide

I may have to try your idea wstar, the adhesive on my velcro, even though 3M, melted away too eventually...

To the OP, your velcro will probably be fine if aren't planning on tracking in hot weather.

XwChriswX

I put mine in the same spots and it's holding well.

Car couldn't even GET to 160* before I had it on with the cooler temps. Now I can actually tip over 180*.

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DLSTR

I have an aluminum plate with velcro in the same locations. The only thing I have had to do was to remove the old glue/adhesive from the summer of last year before putting the plate back on for the winter. I used Goo Gone and no worries. ON the clean surface my velcro holds up perfectly with the adhesive it comes with.

Its been -2 to -3 C here and I see 180+ on the temp gauge during normal use.

XwChriswX

Just noticed using the black gorilla tape on the front edge... I just painted mine flat black. I'll see how it holds up after the winter, but I like your idea, more sturdy.

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Bonnie - Stage 2, Audio build coming this fall!
R.I.P. Abby 3/29/10 - 3/30/14

1st

Aren’t the 2013 370z’s running an oem oil cooler? What are the 2013’s doing as far as running the oem oil coolers in the winter? Does anybody have any feedback on this or is there an oem plate that comes with the 2013.

scionide

The 2013s oil cooler is a water (after market is air) to oil cooler, also its pretty small so over cooling isn't much of an issue with it. Still doesn't provide enough cooling for hard driving sadly.

blueranger

Thanks for all the great feedback guys... I used a synthetic board material but it is just temporary until I find a piece of aluminum. I did find a thin sheet of galvanized metal that's used for a/c ducts.??

I originally removed the top half of my bumper to access via the top. Is there a way to access through the bottom panel without removing the bumper?


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F.I. Stage 1 Twin Turbo #48 | E85 FlexFuel | Built 7AT | F.I. 34 Row Oil Cooler | F.I. Flex Plate | F.I. 19 row Trans Cooler | MT ET Street S/S | ECUTEK Tuned by Seb | RPM Roll Bar

wstar

If you remove the entire undertray (something like 14 bolts?) on the underside, which is common for various maintenance, it opens up a gap to reach in there from underneath, between the back bottom edge of the bumper and the metal rail that the radiator sits over. It's generally enough to reach into the front of the coolers if you want to install or remove a plate, but it might be tight access for doing the initial setup of anything complicated.

As for aluminum, check the Hardware section at Lowe's or Home Depot or whatever. They almost always have a small section of raw materials in the hardware aisle: steel bars and angle iron and sheets and such. Usually among the (quite limited) selection there will be some very thin Aluminum sheets (I think they're .025" thick?), something like 12x24 inches in size, which is perfect for cutting up for something like this - they're very light, and you don't really need more thickness/rigidity if it's just a cover.

(And if they don't have aluminum, or you ever need a real selection of materials: http://mcmaster.com has *everything* and they ship fast with good customer service).

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