brand new car -- service engine soon light

andz33 · 09-20-2009, 12:04 PM

This is the exact same procedures as the 350z I'll see if it works

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cru3l

I read somewhere that the ECU reset procedure is:

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning

Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

kdo2milger · 09-20-2009, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cru3l

I read somewhere that the ECU reset procedure is:

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning

Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

did you ask AK if he would put this post as a sticky?

ZKindaGuy · 09-20-2009, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tcarretti

I took my car in for this exact problem and they cleared the code and told me that they were ordering me a new gas cap. That was two weeks ago and I have not heard back from them and the CEL has not reappeared yet even though I've filled up twice since then.

I think I'm going to go with the STANT filler cap that has shown it's face in the forums lately though. Seems like it would fix the problem AND make filling up easier.

No it won't......go to my latest post:

STANT InStant Fill PN 41004 Gas Cap

Phimosis · 09-20-2009, 09:55 PM

It's kinda silly to imply that people don't know how to correctly put the gas cap on.

If you own a new Z, you're like 99.99% likely to have owned another car. Have you had repeated emissions codes in your other cars?

I've never seen or heard of an evaporative leak code on any car until I got my 370.

It's happened 3 times to me so far. Dealer has no answer what to do. It's not like I'm not turning the cap until it clicks because I'm entertained by taking my car to the dealer every month.

Either a part is defective or the sensor readings are set at too low of a threshold.

Regardless of what it is, this is going to result in hundreds of thousand of dollars in damages. As people's car come off of warranty they are not going to be willing to spend $70 a shot to have the shop diagnose the problem, then will drive their car around with the CEL on when something is really wrong, thinking it is an evaporative emissions code, then seriously damage their engine.

ZKindaGuy · 09-20-2009, 11:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phimosis

It's kinda silly to imply that people don't know how to correctly put the gas cap on.

If you own a new Z, you're like 99.99% likely to have owned another car. Have you had repeated emissions codes in your other cars?

I've never seen or heard of an evaporative leak code on any car until I got my 370.

It's happened 3 times to me so far. Dealer has no answer what to do. It's not like I'm not turning the cap until it clicks because I'm entertained by taking my car to the dealer every month.

Either a part is defective or the sensor readings are set at too low of a threshold.

Regardless of what it is, this is going to result in hundreds of thousand of dollars in damages. As people's car come off of warranty they are not going to be willing to spend $70 a shot to have the shop diagnose the problem, then will drive their car around with the CEL on when something is really wrong, thinking it is an evaporative emissions code, then seriously damage their engine.

There is nothing silly about it and it has more to do thhan just whether a person knows how to put on a gas cap correctly. The cap may still be on correctly but not sealing as it should which could mean the threads are perhaps chiped or worn or stripped or the pressure sensor may have gone bad. In any case the ECU is programmed to detect possible fuel system leaks through the entire course of the fuel track. There are somewhere around 7 or more different EVAP codes based on the several usual areas where a leak may likely originate and based on the size of the leak.

Beside my 370Z I have had EVAP errors on 4 of my past Mustangs since 2003 as well. I believe alot has to do with the weather as well in terms of humidity, barometric pressure and air flow as all of these may contribute to an EVAP condition if the seal at the gas cap is not complete.

I don't disagree with you about the posibility of thresholds being set to low in the ECU however there is the possibility that a true fuel leak can occur and I'd rather have the trigger than not and catch the car on fire should raw fuel somehow make its way onto the manifold or cats.

If you dont want to go to the dealer all the time then pick up a diagnostic code reader that has a code reset capability. After two visits to the dealer and paying $70 to them you could have bought your own reader.

If you really take your car seriously and don't want to be misled by an SES light that may or may not be something serious then you really need to get a code reader/reseter so you can at least make the dtermination yourself before you rush to the dealer. The codes are specific enough to help you identify the root cause of a symptom.

BTW - Here is a list of Nissan "Service Engine Soon" codes that I am aware of:

NISSAN Specific Codes

P1105 MAP/BARO Pressure Switch Solenoid Valve
P1110 Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid
P1120 Secondary Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Fault
P1125 Tandem Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Fault
P1126 Thermostat Function
P1130 Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve
P1135 Intake Valve Timing Control Circuit (Bank 2)
P1140 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor (Bank 1)
P1145 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor (Bank 2)
P1148 Closed Loop Control (Bank 1)
P1165 Swirl Control Valve Control Vacuum Switch
P1168 Closed Loop Control (Bank 2)
P1210 Traction Control System Signal Fault
P1211 ABS/TCS Control Unit
P1212 ABS/TCS Communication Line
P1217 Engine Over Temperature (Overheat)
P1220 Fuel Pump Control Signal Fault
P1320 Ignition Signal
P1335 Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)
P1336 Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKPS)
P1400 EGRC Solenoid Valve
P1401 EGR Temperature Sensor
P1402 EGR System
P1440 EVAP Control System Small Leak
P1441 Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve
P1443 EVAP Canister Control Vacuum Switch Circuit Fault
P1444 Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve
P1445 EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve
P1446 EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve (Closed)
P1447 EVAP Control System Purge Flow Monitoring
P1448 EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve (Open)
P1464 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit (Ground Signal)
P1490 Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve (Circuit)
P1491 Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve
P1492 EVAP Canister Purge Control/Solenoid Valve (Circuit)
P1493 EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve/Solenoid Valve
P1550 TCC Solenoid Valve
P1605 A/T Diagnostic Communication Line
P1701 Fuel Trim
P1705 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit A/T
P1706 Park/Neutral Position (PNP) Switch
P1760 Overrun Clutch Solenoid Valve (Circuit)

kdo2milger · 09-20-2009, 11:55 PM

when i still had mine on i always made it a point to twist it clockwise (never pushing in on it) a full turn until the lettering was parallel and readable from left to right...and never had a CEL...

09-20-2009, 11:55 PM	#21 (permalink)
kdo2milger OG Priesthood Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Fargo, ND Posts: 17,859 Drives: NISMO T Rep Power: 59	when i still had mine on i always made it a point to twist it clockwise (never pushing in on it) a full turn until the lettering was parallel and readable from left to right...and never had a CEL... __________________ Project *NISMO*

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09-20-2009, 09:55 PM	#19 (permalink)
Phimosis Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Oildale, CA Posts: 412 Drives: 2013 911 4S Rep Power: 416	It's kinda silly to imply that people don't know how to correctly put the gas cap on. If you own a new Z, you're like 99.99% likely to have owned another car. Have you had repeated emissions codes in your other cars? I've never seen or heard of an evaporative leak code on any car until I got my 370. It's happened 3 times to me so far. Dealer has no answer what to do. It's not like I'm not turning the cap until it clicks because I'm entertained by taking my car to the dealer every month. Either a part is defective or the sensor readings are set at too low of a threshold. Regardless of what it is, this is going to result in hundreds of thousand of dollars in damages. As people's car come off of warranty they are not going to be willing to spend $70 a shot to have the shop diagnose the problem, then will drive their car around with the CEL on when something is really wrong, thinking it is an evaporative emissions code, then seriously damage their engine.