Diff cooler and inline filter
 

update, all finished, see post 30.



I'm making a diff cooler kit. Just curious if anyone knows the size of the threads on the diff itself where I need to install a NPT fitting or something with the other end having an AN line.

Also GTM uses an inline filter going to the pump...summit racing has a million of them. Anyone know the filter size I'll need or flow rate I'd need?

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps49f1bf35.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps98021986.jpg

edit 11/5/13


We'll if the 350z is the same I believe its a 18mm x 1.5 thread.

As for the filter I'm using a earl 140 micron.

So if anyone out there wants a rear diff cooler and doesn't want to pay $1300 or save $800-900!!!!!!! here's everything you'll need...at least the way I'm doing it.

Final build list

Another great idea synolimit :tup: Good having you around ;)

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/smilies/idea.gif Now that I think about it, I'll let mine burn up, giving me an excuse to do 3.90's & a Quailf :excited:

Wish I was making $900 a kit though selling these :(

Heck discount them at $750 :p

Don't tempt me.

This is a good idea. Might be worthwhile to run a switch to the cabin to flip it on when you intend beating on it.

How about a fan to go with this? :D

I am.

So I don't have to drill the diff cover I'm now buying and installing a -8 AN, 1/8 NPT, -8 AN Tee with it as close to the drain hole as possible. This will allow a temp sensor to screw in. When ever I see it get above say 240-260, ill flip the switch.

O yeah, working on a control panel now :stirthepot::stirthepot::stirthepot:

No need. I have no mufflers now. Where this will go is that hole big area where the big OEM muffler used to be. After I build a scoop for it, it will get so much wind down there it won't be funny.

Like a glove.

Still need to add the diff oil temp gauge and maybe a engine oil pressure gauge. What do you think? Oil pressure needed?

I don't think oil pressure is needed, and it's major function to me is that if a fitting comes undone and you lose your oil, you'll see the needle drop way earlier than noticing your oil is gone

Then needed it might be so you pull over ASAP and shut the car off no?

In that sense I guess yes, but I mean the car doesn't inherently have oil pressure problems. And while we might rev the crap out of a motor, we aren't usually towing 5000lbs that we need to watch the pressure to make sure it doesn't go to high, lol...

Yes, the 350Z diff covers are the same. I did not take a look at your fitting selection, but keep in mind. If someone is running a NISMO finned diff cover, they may need a different fitting to connect to the sump.

Also, diff cooler setups like this are easy for install, but can be a PAIN to purge and fill up later. You have to purge the system and then make sure you have the proper level in the diff. The only way you can do that is to run the pump with the line disconnected from the return and allow it to pour into a bucket while filling it up at the same time.

If you drilled into the diff case and put a seperate return port, you could then use the factory fill port as it was intended with less mess. I recommend going this route.

A few comments since I have done a few of these:
- MAKE SURE you put an isolator between the pump and the chassis. The vibration from the pump will be annoying unless you are going hardcore race car.

- Buy a pair of high quality electrical connectors and make the pump removable. Otherwise you will be cutting the harness up later if you have to service the pump.

- While you are attempting to cool the diff. Go ahead and buy some DEI Titanium Exhaust wrap and wrap the exhaust portion near the diff itself. The radiant heat from the exhaust is a contributing factor here.

Some really good pointers there ^^