Service engine, vdc, slip, power loss...
 

So, I woke up about 35 minutes after my alarm went off this morning, so I rushed to get dressed, hopped in my car, and took off. I didn't have time to let it warm up any. I get about a block down the road, and my service engine, vdc off, and tire slip lights are all on, and the car lost power for a second. Of course when it lost power, my instant reaction was push in the clutch, and I came to the stop sign. Car is idling OK. I sit for a second to try to warm it up a little, take off again, and it lags once again. All the lights stayed on for the ~12 minute drive to work on the highway. I get to the stop sign in front of work, take my left, and it lags under accelerations again. I pulled in and turned the car off and ran to clock in on time. I havnt had time to start the car back up or anything, and won't until lunch. Any helpful info you guys could give me?

Go to Autozone at lunch and pull the code? There's a million things it could be, but without knowing what code threw the CEL there's no way to narrow it down.

Not warming up your car has nothing to do with anything, so don't worry

Just a coincidence.

There is an auto zone near my work, so I will stop by there on lunch, if the light is still on then. Wasn't sure if the warmup was a factor or not on these cars. I previously had a 2010 Shelby gt500, and a supercharged 07 mustang Gt, and those were both really cranky if they didn't get a little warm up time.

The code will still be there whether the light is on or not. Once you get it pulled we can be more help.

So, just went on lunch and it had a check engine still, at first, the oil light was on, but went off after about 2 seconds. Didn't even make it out of the driveway, and car died. Try to restart, and it turns over a bit, then either doesn't start, or starts for about 1 second, and dies.

I did get it to start for about 10-15 seconds to get it pulled into a parking spot, but it ran VERY rough and died as soon as I quit trying to give it gas to get it pulled in.

This really sucks considering I just bought the car yesterday. Called the used car lot I got it from, they said they never had a problem, except the battery, which was cause they kept the vertical doors open for advertising. Drove it all the way home from Houston which was about a hour and a half drive, and only strange behavior I ever had was the rpm would drop to 500 when I came to a full stop, then pick back up and not die.

Just got it towed to a shop. I normally work on my own cars if I can figure out what is wrong, but it would be a bit hard to do that in the parking lot at work. Shop said it sounds like an o2 sensor, which the car is really low (got coilovers on the way to bring it back up some) so something could have easily hit one of them . when the wrecker came, it wouldn't even start up enough to back it out of the parking spot.

Silly question, but did you have gas in the car? Any modifications to the motor?...intake, exhaust...etc.

Has over half a tank of gas in it, no intake, and as far as I know, it's only a cat back exhaust on it. Like I mentioned before, I just got it yesterday, so it could be more than a cat back. It's ran fine all day yesterday, sputtered a little bit when I ran to taco bell at midnight last night, but only did it once and went there and back without any other hiccups. But today it has continually gotten worse.

Warranty?

Wait- you've had the car a day and it died? Go raise all kinds of hell at the dealer. Make sure anyone else there to buy a car hears you.

It was a random used car lot, not a dealer. Car was sold as-is with no warranty, so nothing they are going to do. Which they even had me sign the paper saying as-is, but I test drove it, let it idle in the parking lot a while, etc, and it never had a problem. So of course I signed expecting no problem.

They sold you a ******-up car that didn't last a day. Go back up there and raise hell.

That's a hour and a half drive, they aren't worth my time and gas to get no results. I did call them and theysaid they never had a problem . and there isn't a way to prove if they did or not. I'm hoping it's simple enough as a cam position or crank position sensor and I'll be back on the road.

if its a 2010 and has less than 60k miles the drivetrain should still be under factory warranty. Shit depending on the purchase date of the original owner it might still have full bumper to bumper. :tup:

Yeah take it to dealer if the above is true.

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63k miles on it

Awww eff!

sent via my hand puter-ma-jig

:iagree:

Texas has a lemon law. You shouldn't have to spend a dime on repairs, towing, whatever it is.....You don't know what kind of abuse the previous owner did to this car. It was/is the used car dealer's responsibility to have the car fully functional. I'd raise all hell and demand a refund especially considering it's been a day. Warranty or not, you assumed to have purchased a functional car and deserve a functional car. Texas as well as other stated, I believe, have an implied warranty. Unless the used car dealer advertised "as is" or "with all faults" it's implied that the vehicle you purchase runs. Speak to the dealer. If they give you trouble, you have rights under the consumer protection act and the lemon law I mentioned. Dealerships cannot use false advertising or misleading statements. They must also reveal any knowledge they have of the vehicle. If they've never had a problem, chances are, they never really looked at the car closely. It's annoying, but if I just spent this much cash on a car, it's worth the trouble.



...I just saw the previous post about it being "as-is." Sure didn't make it easy for yourself....geez.

^^^ Lemon Laws usually only apply to new cars, or at LEAST cars within the factory warranty...
If it is a major problem, (and OP, I'm really rooting for you), it may be time to ask a lawyer to see if they can, or if it's worth it to try to sue

most states have a contract reversal period, purchasing a car is a contract figure out if you signed a specific waiver for this, go back there and just tell them you changed your mind it's usually three days, they may make you pay for "damages" tho during the time you had it. Other wise I hope the shop you took it to has a consult 3 which almost none do unless its a dealer anyway.

Yeah, that was before I realized he was way out of warranty. He has a few options though. I'd start with a CarFax and see if it was in for the same repairs. Maybe he'll get lucky and find something there.

Today is the third day he could just take it back, https://www.oag.state.tx.us/consumer/3day.shtml

Better be or go in with a lawyer

But good find! :tup:

Yeah it may not work for car sales in tx. Dude may be stuck with it. Hope its just electricak

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They put it up on a lift and nothing is broken from rubbing the road. They pulled the service engine code and it was for crank sensor, so they are looking into that now.

Good deal.. My broke at the Z Nationals on the Track in my 3rd session. Ended up trailer the Car Home and replacing the crank sensor. Took all of 5 mins to fix.

You went from SOL to a minor repair. Lucky you


Nissan doesn't make the most reliable CPS. They suck actually... So it's common

hard to think they used to be a lot worse at least now they are reliable for most people. The old ABS sensors used to be garbage up until 2007

They finally called me today. Supposed to have the car back tomorrow afternoon. They looked all under the car for damage from scraping the ground, found nothing. Then they found some of the wires on the passenger door side had been pulled/cut by the lambo door hinges. So they fixed all of that, and checked all the wiring harness they could under the car for any other wire damage. Didn't find any more so they finally actually looked at the crank sensor itself and determined that it was the problem. But nobody in town had one, so they had to overnight one through Nissan. Total bill (including towing)... $363

Im so ready to have my toy back home. Been driving my brother's eclipse gsx. It's quick and fun to play with the blow off valve, but I want my own back :D

Good deal, $363 isn't the cheapest, but at least it wasn't like my last repair bill of $2500, lol

Well the 363 includes the $85 towing bill too.

If the car would have made it to auto zone before breaking down, and they would have told me that's what the check engine light was.... I would have done it myself. But since the car wouldn't start and move, I didn't want to replace a part and hope that was it.

So, I still don't have my car... They replaced the sensor, and it started right up, however, after it gets warm and you turn it off, it won't start again. You have to unplug the crank sensor and plug it back in, then it will start again... So they are pretty much chasing down a wiring gremlin at this point and they said hopefully by Friday. =(

OK, so just heard from the shop again... They said they have checked everything, and ran every test they can. The car is hit or miss on if it will start or not. If it doesn't, unplug the crank sensor and it starts up then you can plug it right back in and be on your way... They told me normally cars won't even start if that sensor is unplugged. He suggested that the computer possibly has a tune on it that is messed up, or the whole computer is just bad.

Any suggestions?