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and it didn't appear to have a crush washer The bottom of the oil pan bolt has a ring to it (and the pan has paint missing from the same
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#1 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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and it didn't appear to have a crush washer
The bottom of the oil pan bolt has a ring to it (and the pan has paint missing from the same spot), but, I tried getting it off by hand (no tools, don't want to miss and screw the bolt up), and the ring wouldn't budge, so as far as I can tell, it's part of the bolt. So, I used a crush washer (aluminum) like what I have to use on my bike. No leaks... For the oil filter - I used a Mobil1 M1-110 filter, which is a bit taller than the M1-108. I figure the extra surface area should flow better. (these correspond with the K&N HP-1010 and HP-1008 filters (1008 is recommended, 1010 is taller)) |
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#4 (permalink) |
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I was stationed out in Tinker AFB and bought my Z back in January when I was still in service. Got raped by sales tax twice for a total of $4500.
As for the bolt, it's exactly what you described. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Thanks for the confirmation on the bolt too ![]() |
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#6 (permalink) |
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They all have the crush washer unless the last person who did your change didnt put one on. Sometimes they almost seize on. You have to take it out with a very fine tipped flathead screwdriver.
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#7 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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I'll check when I hit 3750 miles...I figure it'll be fine - there should be enough torque on the threads, and compression on everything to keep things tight enough to not leak any oil. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Yes, it can be difficult to see the crush washer. You're right that it should be tight enough though assuming you used the right amount of torque. Once the washer is crushed (which it should be), it can almost seize on and will take some prying to get loose.
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