Anyone else's Z start when it feels like it? Not steering lock...
 

So long story short I have an 09 that's got 31k on it. Had issues with it starting two weeks into ownership. I thought it was the dreaded SLU and had the steering lock unit replaced at 30,800 miles. Started great every time the first time I pushed the button. One day later same issues but started in 3-4 pushes. Dealership recommended changing the batteries in key fobs. I did and it started everytime on the first try for a week.

I go on a two week vacation. My gf starts it for me while I am gone during week one. Week two I come back and it takes 3-4 pushes to start.

2 months later it is back to me pushing it 30-40 times. I can here a click like it wants to turn but it won't. This is whether the fob is in or out of the key port.

Sometimes it even likes to start if I open the door and let it cycle back to lock.

Any ideas...I am frustrated beyond belief and it is annoying as hell. I'm really afraid it is the ECM which is hella expensive.

^This. Betrayal. You my friend, have been lied to.....now dump her :icon17: Kidding, dude. My 2010 Z has 51K miles on it, and the fobs are acting up on me. I got the batteries replaced, but it still acts like it's got a mind of its own. I'm still troubleshooting:ugh2:, good luck brother.

Hahaha, she is scared of my car as it is. I'm contemplating changing the fob batteries again and then possibly the main car battery. I am waiting for the dealership to get back to me. Not sure how far I will get considering they told me it was fixed the first time.

Maybe the push button is going bad?

Sometimes there is a pause between pressing the start button and the car turning on and starting. I don't think anyone has figured out why it happens but it seems to me to happen more often if the car was shut off for only a few seconds. Doesn't happen very often, so this may not be your problem. But it's easy to check. Wait for a few seconds (2-5 seconds for me, some have reported longer pauses) after pressing the start button and see if it starts. If it's not that, I'd look for an intermittent clutch/brake switch.

I have a GTR start button to swap out once it arrives.

Isn't there a switch with the clutch pedal assembly? I'm doing some reading through the site checking for possible causes. I wonder if that could cause it.

But I can literally here the click like it is attempting to start the car. But then my stereo just starts playing and the gauge needles do the goofy little swipe thing.

check your clutch switch. those sometimes go bad.

That's what I think I am going to have the dealership look into.

You're sure it's not just the main battery? Just sounds like battery is dead/dying. Still enough to power small things but not enough power to crank the engine perhaps.

mine does it too. i thought i was crazy but it seems to do it more since i removed the steering lock fuse.:confused:

my battery is brand new too.

This

And maybe you need a second steering lock

As far as I can tell, the fuse doesn't have anything to do with the pause. I pulled my fuse and it didn't seem to have any effect. Judging by the other posts I've read, a short (1-3 seconds) pause is "normal" - anything longer makes me suspect clutch/brake switch(es). If it happens more than one in ten starts, I'd also suspect the switches.

There actually was a thread dedicated to a longer pause after pulling the fuse, c'mon SouthArk!!! You're slackin'!!!

If the dealer didn't fix it, then they are responsible for fixing it now.

There have been some reports of it making the pause longer, but nothing I would consider "scientific." I'm all but convinced that the brake/clutch switches are the culprit for long pauses. Edit: and possibly the reason for all pauses.

My guess as to what is happening is that there is a (filtering) capacitor on the ECM/BCM inputs and when the brake/clutch switches get dirty the extra resistance makes it take longer to charge the cap. If anybody has another theory, chime in.

Have you checked the battery with a voltmeter? And you have a battery gauge in the car. When it is on ACC or ON (not started) what does the gauge show for volts?

Hey SouthArk, you don't reckon that the switch contacts are self cleaning? I mean those robust automotive type contacts usually self clean. I would love to see one of those "defectives" disassembled.

Someone did a DIY on cleaning the, IIRC, clutch switch. I vaguely remember there being some pics but my memory ain't what it used to be.

Edit: I did a site search for "clutch switch" and didn't see what I was looking for. Also scanned through the list of threads in the DIY section with no luck. Maybe I dreamed it. Or it is just a few pics in a post and not a full-fledged DIY. Or maybe my mad search skillz are fading.

Without the car turned on and running the battery reads 12 volts. Running it is just over 14 volts.

Assuming your meter is correct, the battery voltage is a little low. A fully charged battery should read ~13V. With the car running, you should be reading ~14V.

Have you checked the water in the battery? If it's low, add distilled water. Adding water is a lot easier if you remove the trim piece that the battery lid fits into. See one of the "Pull the SLU Fuse" DIYs for how to remove the trim piece.

Thanks for the tip. I am going to add that to the weekend laundry list of things to try before I take it back to the dealership.

I find myself pushing the start button and door lock/unlock multiple times till I get what I want all the time!! The start buttons not as bad as the door! I've stood at the door for over a minute trying to get that ******* thing to work! Brand new 13

Good to know that I'm not the only one with the issue haha.

Dropped it off at the dealership tonight. Hopefully they figure what's up.

So far it's not:
SLU
Start button
Car battery
Key fob batteries

Possible:
Clutch pedal sensor
ECM

Update as of 12 September.

Dealer replicated start issue. Took them 30 tries to get the car to crank.

Hooked it up to computer and everything reads normal. Started the car successfully multiple times. Decided to keep the car hooked up over night to attempt to replicate tomorrow.

Tech I spoke to claims it may have a bad contact point somewhere or something is overheating(not sure how anything could be overheated when cold starting a car and trying to get it to crank).

To me they seem confused.

I just want my damn push button to start the first time every time. Or a damn ignition I can insert a key into and turn.

Day two at dealership.

Able to start it multiple times while hooked up to their computers. Has not had an issue since yesterday morning. Tech rattled off eight or so different parts that all incorporate into the push button start. Can't narrow down which part has the intermittent failure without it actually failing.....

I asked them to keep the car over the weekend since there aren't techs there over the weekend. Hopefully it doesn't start on Monday.

Sucks. I just have to make sure I fully engage the clutch before I hit the button. If I'm even a millisecond to soon it won't start and I have to try again.

As for my doors not locking or unlocking with the door button, I've tried 30+ times and it just won't work. Have to pull the fob out and use it. Really annoying!!! After using the fob it starts working again.

They told me they have had the FOB in the whole time. I usually keep it in myself. I personally have a feeling it's the clutch pedal sensor. I'm about to just ask them to swap it out and pray that was the issue.

How about your antenna heads? A tech told me that 4 feet is enough to be out of range for the start button. So far I have only found antennas in the doors, below the bar, and in the hatch area. If there was one inside the dash, I don't have that one anymore. I replaced the batteries in the fobs and purchased new clips for the antenna under the bar (keep popping off and falling down). Recently, I have been good to go.

I'm gonna have to mention that to them on Monday. I didn't know there were antennas in any other location. IIRC the one that reads the key is located near the e-brake handle.

Just got in my '09 Touring without the fob and pressed start. Got a big "NO KEY" warning on the multi-display. I'm guessing it would do the same for a bad antenna. But I'm just guessing. ;)

Well there's your problem. Anal key fobs don't work well.

Here's all of them

Thank you!

and today's consensus led to the car starting and working for them.

I just asked them to install a new clutch pedal sensor, just in case.

cost me $118.50.

That should fix it if my experience was the same as yours... see here:

http://www.the370z.com/exterior-inte...ring-lock.html

Clutch pedal sensor solved my issue!

Too bad they raped you for $118 though... I fixed mine in 20 minutes with some sand paper basically. There is no magic in the switch, just sliding pole contacts on metal. The hardest part is removing the switch, after that it take minutes to clean and put back together. The new switch will probably do the same thing in the future too, keep that in mind!

$118 was totally worth being able to start my car the first time, every time. I certainly will, thanks for the information!