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Is my oil cooler overkill for the street?

Originally Posted by 1slow370 there is a tiny regulator in the pump that attempts to keep the oil pressure from getting to high, can't remember which team it was but

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Old 09-03-2013, 12:41 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 1slow370 View Post
there is a tiny regulator in the pump that attempts to keep the oil pressure from getting to high, can't remember which team it was but one of the HR race cars was noting over 110psi at 8000rpm.it's to bad the pump is located on the crank snout or it would be a great pump for a wet sump system, unfortunately high rpm's still effect it similar to the issues the old rb26's had when the crank nose vibrates it puts a huge strain on the tight clearances in the pump, imo this is what most likely killed megan370's motor not the vvel. the pickup has a screen in it so it is unlikely that a pin from the vvel got sucked into the pump and more likely that the pump blew cuz his rev limiter was raised, which lead to his vvel roasting and blowing.
I agree. VQ pumps have been notorious for failure. But our VHR's 7500rpm redline was enough to grenade the classic DE pump. So we are better off than the VQ was around 2003. I believe that the VR38 took the pump off the crank and put it down on a chain. But, the Toyota 2JZ seemed to have no problems with the oil pump drive gear interfacing directly on the crankshaft... so there is hope in working with it.
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:52 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1slow370 View Post
there is a tiny regulator in the pump that attempts to keep the oil pressure from getting to high, can't remember which team it was but one of the HR race cars was noting over 110psi at 8000rpm.it's to bad the pump is located on the crank snout or it would be a great pump for a wet sump system, unfortunately high rpm's still effect it similar to the issues the old rb26's had when the crank nose vibrates it puts a huge strain on the tight clearances in the pump, imo this is what most likely killed megan370's motor not the vvel. the pickup has a screen in it so it is unlikely that a pin from the vvel got sucked into the pump and more likely that the pump blew cuz his rev limiter was raised, which lead to his vvel roasting and blowing.
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Originally Posted by phunk View Post
I agree. VQ pumps have been notorious for failure. But our VHR's 7500rpm redline was enough to grenade the classic DE pump. So we are better off than the VQ was around 2003. I believe that the VR38 took the pump off the crank and put it down on a chain. But, the Toyota 2JZ seemed to have no problems with the oil pump drive gear interfacing directly on the crankshaft... so there is hope in working with it.
This is why I won't put a lightweight dampener on my Z. The change in vibration pitch on the end of the crankshaft.
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:46 AM   #63 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by PaulZ370 View Post
I have a 19-row oil cooler, and when I first installed it, I suffered extremely long oil warm-up times. I like to see at least 180°F on my oil temp's before I shut her off again because I want to make sure that any water residue from the internal combustion reaction that made it into the oil is evaporated out and not remain in the sump contaminating it. My solution was to place a thin aluminum plate as an air-barrier on the front of the cooler blocking off all but 4-5 rows on top. I secured it with industrial strength double stick tape to hold it in place.

Even now, during winter time in 40-ish degree weather, my commute to work (9 mile trip) I am barely at 180°F even though I'm driving in traffic conditions with a few lights. During the summer, with 80/90°F temps, it still takes about 5-8 minutes before temps reach 180, and then stabilize around 200°F under normal driving conditions. Under spirited driving, oil temps climb to 210 - 220°F depending on ambient temp and how hard I'm pushing, but cool off relatively quickly afterwards when I return to normal driving (steady speed, no hard acceleration).

Hope this helps in better understanding what you might want to do.
Did you have a thermostatic plate when you initially installed ur oil cooler?
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Old 09-03-2013, 11:04 AM   #64 (permalink)
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What size Oil Cooler do you guys recommend for DD and Spirited/Weekend Tracking? A friend of mine had a 25 Row and told me it was good for DD but that his Temps hit 240 after a few rounds at the track. Would a 34 Row be more suffice?
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:06 PM   #65 (permalink)
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What size Oil Cooler do you guys recommend for DD and Spirited/Weekend Tracking? A friend of mine had a 25 Row and told me it was good for DD but that his Temps hit 240 after a few rounds at the track. Would a 34 Row be more suffice?
depends on what kind of oil cooler it is. the z1 kits use the setrab 6 series cooler. i'd say just get the z1 34 row with the thermostatic plate since it looks like you're in a hot climate.
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:06 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Did you have a thermostatic plate when you initially installed ur oil cooler?
No - was not very well aware of all the options at the time. I just chose the Stillen Kit thinking I can't go wrong, and I did not see an option for a thermostatic plate, so I had no clue. Don't get me wrong, I trust the hoses and fittings knowing they are Stillen and they won't blow apart on the road somewhere, I just wish they had an option for the thermo-plate...
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:42 PM   #67 (permalink)
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No - was not very well aware of all the options at the time. I just chose the Stillen Kit thinking I can't go wrong, and I did not see an option for a thermostatic plate, so I had no clue. Don't get me wrong, I trust the hoses and fittings knowing they are Stillen and they won't blow apart on the road somewhere, I just wish they had an option for the thermo-plate...
the thermo plate they charge you 50 bucks for is made by Hayden automotive. it's like 25-30 bucks online.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-243/overview/
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Old 09-04-2013, 01:05 AM   #68 (permalink)
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It takes @ least 10' for my oil temp to see 80°C holding the RPMs around 1,500 RPM, on a cold start in mid 80s F. I wait ‘till the water temp is @ 50°C ‘till I Roll Out.
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Old 09-04-2013, 04:12 AM   #69 (permalink)
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yeah i had a thermostatic plate it was one of those bad lines/ defect things.

Gtr has 2 stage one scavenges from the turbos and sprays toward the pickup the other goes from the pickup through the cooler and to the engine, driven from it's own timing chain.

The vk56vd also has the pump driven by a separate timing chain, but it is the traditional one stage from there.

shouldn't forget to mention that they do this so they can run the pump slower than the crank between .5-.75x crank rpm
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:10 AM   #70 (permalink)
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I'm beginning to think either my thermo plate did not get installed or it's not working properly. This morning it was 64 degrees and it took 18 miles just for my oil temp to hit 180, and once I started cruising on the hwy at 80mph it started going below 180. That is ridiculous! I almost wish I didn't have this cooler, I should not have to wait that long before I can go wot with piece of mind.
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:36 AM   #71 (permalink)
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My guess is that somehow you got the non-thermostatic plate. 18 miles is way too long. I'd contact the vendor and ask them what's going on.
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:40 AM   #72 (permalink)
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My guess is that somehow you got the non-thermostatic plate. 18 miles is way too long. I'd contact the vendor and ask them what's going on.
I did, here is his response.....

Brandon,

That sounds about right to me as the cooling will begin as soon as it opens. We will be releasing a block off plate when the company that we’re going through can finalize the production cost.

Thanks,
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:42 AM   #73 (permalink)
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Well, looks like it's time to DIY a blockoff plate and put it over the cooler. Leave it on unless ambient temps are in the 90s. There's a pretty good walkthrough here from what I remember.
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:47 AM   #74 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chuck33079 View Post
Well, looks like it's time to DIY a blockoff plate and put it over the cooler. Leave it on unless ambient temps are in the 90s. There's a pretty good walkthrough here from what I remember.
I was under the impression that the thermo plate should allow me to not need a block off plate. I'm starting to second guess my purchase of this cooler, since I'll only be doing street driving.
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:51 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Making the blockoff plate isn't the worst thing in the world. Personally, I'd rather have to throw a block off plate on it in cooler temps than have to baby the car all summer long without an oil cooler. If it really bothers you, take it off. Someone will buy it from you.

I still think there was some kind of snafu with the plate. The way I understand it, it would close back up again as it cools down, so you shouldn't have temps under 180 on the freeway. Again, this is all hypothetical to me since I live in a place where summer goes until October. Someone from a more normal climate may be able to help more.
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