Originally Posted by 1slow370 (Post 2469451)

there is a tiny regulator in the pump that attempts to keep the oil pressure from getting to high, can't remember which team it was but one of the HR race cars was noting over 110psi at 8000rpm.it's to bad the pump is located on the crank snout or it would be a great pump for a wet sump system, unfortunately high rpm's still effect it similar to the issues the old rb26's had when the crank nose vibrates it puts a huge strain on the tight clearances in the pump, imo this is what most likely killed megan370's motor not the vvel. the pickup has a screen in it so it is unlikely that a pin from the vvel got sucked into the pump and more likely that the pump blew cuz his rev limiter was raised, which lead to his vvel roasting and blowing.

Originally Posted by 1slow370 (Post 2469451)

there is a tiny regulator in the pump that attempts to keep the oil pressure from getting to high, can't remember which team it was but one of the HR race cars was noting over 110psi at 8000rpm.it's to bad the pump is located on the crank snout or it would be a great pump for a wet sump system, unfortunately high rpm's still effect it similar to the issues the old rb26's had when the crank nose vibrates it puts a huge strain on the tight clearances in the pump, imo this is what most likely killed megan370's motor not the vvel. the pickup has a screen in it so it is unlikely that a pin from the vvel got sucked into the pump and more likely that the pump blew cuz his rev limiter was raised, which lead to his vvel roasting and blowing.

Originally Posted by phunk (Post 2471210)

I agree. VQ pumps have been notorious for failure. But our VHR's 7500rpm redline was enough to grenade the classic DE pump. So we are better off than the VQ was around 2003. I believe that the VR38 took the pump off the crank and put it down on a chain. But, the Toyota 2JZ seemed to have no problems with the oil pump drive gear interfacing directly on the crankshaft... so there is hope in working with it.

Originally Posted by PaulZ370 (Post 2469860)

I have a 19-row oil cooler, and when I first installed it, I suffered extremely long oil warm-up times. I like to see at least 180°F on my oil temp's before I shut her off again because I want to make sure that any water residue from the internal combustion reaction that made it into the oil is evaporated out and not remain in the sump contaminating it. My solution was to place a thin aluminum plate as an air-barrier on the front of the cooler blocking off all but 4-5 rows on top. I secured it with industrial strength double stick tape to hold it in place.

Even now, during winter time in 40-ish degree weather, my commute to work (9 mile trip) I am barely at 180°F even though I'm driving in traffic conditions with a few lights. During the summer, with 80/90°F temps, it still takes about 5-8 minutes before temps reach 180, and then stabilize around 200°F under normal driving conditions. Under spirited driving, oil temps climb to 210 - 220°F depending on ambient temp and how hard I'm pushing, but cool off relatively quickly afterwards when I return to normal driving (steady speed, no hard acceleration).

Hope this helps in better understanding what you might want to do.

Originally Posted by BOLIO 671 (Post 2471509)

What size Oil Cooler do you guys recommend for DD and Spirited/Weekend Tracking? A friend of mine had a 25 Row and told me it was good for DD but that his Temps hit 240 after a few rounds at the track. Would a 34 Row be more suffice?

Originally Posted by bmarcinczyk14 (Post 2471491)

Did you have a thermostatic plate when you initially installed ur oil cooler?

Originally Posted by PaulZ370 (Post 2472224)

No - was not very well aware of all the options at the time. I just chose the Stillen Kit thinking I can't go wrong, and I did not see an option for a thermostatic plate, so I had no clue. Don't get me wrong, I trust the hoses and fittings knowing they are Stillen and they won't blow apart on the road somewhere, I just wish they had an option for the thermo-plate...

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2472639)

My guess is that somehow you got the non-thermostatic plate. 18 miles is way too long. I'd contact the vendor and ask them what's going on.

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2472647)

Well, looks like it's time to DIY a blockoff plate and put it over the cooler. Leave it on unless ambient temps are in the 90s. There's a pretty good walkthrough here from what I remember.