We do now. ;)


It will work on all Z's. The other oil pans on the market will not work with the 2012+ cars with the factory oil cooler in place.

Yes, it will come with block off plates.

There is a drop down box to select with or without the baffles. Without the baffles, the oil pan is $416.50. With the baffles, the pan is $480.26.

Very reasonable.

Thanks!

It is a great price for you NA guys. And obvious the GTM pan comes with hardware unlike the Greddy pans.

nice !

Will you have to relocate the oil filter, or will it still be serviceable in it's stock location? Is there any type of concave or slope to the pan to help with draining?

Weight vs stock?

More.

The stock one is a super thin (admittedly steel) piece of junk. This is a cast aluminum piece with some real meat to it. Plus, it'll be holding an extra couple quarts of oil, which you may have noticed at some point weighs a bit.



Lucky for us, it's at least as low in the engine as it can possibly be.

Mike,

Looks like Replacing the Oil Filter becomes a PITA with this Pan. Any photos of it installed looking toward the oil filter. I like the idea, but just wondering if you can still access the oil Filter.

thanks,

C

You guys worry to much.

The oil filter does not need to be relocated. We designed our pan to work with both the early setup and the late setup with the factory water to oil cooler sandwich plate. The pan will drain just fine with the way we positioned the drain bolt hole.

It's not terrible to replace with the pan installed. Here are some pictures of the oil pan installed below.

So I am guessing that the oil from the oil filter drains onto the top of the pan when it's removed making a nice mess, is this correct or does it channel off somewhere? What is the crank/slinger clearance with the baffles installed & is there any problems getting a near full drain with the baffles?

Thanks :tiphat:, my intrest in this pan is growing.

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps83f4bb70.jpg

Thanks Mike

The channel for the lower coolant line will catch a lot of the oil when removing the filter. Wipe it down with a rag like you normally would when you're done and you are good to go.

There is about 4" or so of clearance between the crankshaft and the top of our baffle. The crankshaft barely protrudes below the main caps and on top of that, there is the upper oil pan before our lower oil pan. See the attached pics for an illustration.

As for the baffles preventing a full drain, it is better than the stock pan for sure. Take a look at the pictures we posted of the factory oil pan and you can clearly see all the places where oil will not be able to drain from. The floor of our oil pan is flat in comparison and only a very small amount of residue will remain when you do an oil change compared to the factory pan.

Can we buy these yet?

That's what I thought at first, but then edited my post when I saw the lower coolant line & thought it would pretty much fill the valley causing the oil to run elsewhere ;)

I was sure you had some clearance in there somewhere, but it just looked tight looking at the pan & baffles alone. I am new to this platform & I really appreciate the illistrations :tup: That crank is really stuffed up there.


What he said, but with the caveat of them being instock ;) as I see them on the web site