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Coolest Oil Catch Can

I checked all my hosing the other day btw, this is with about 400-500 street miles (most of it hard driving for logging) and dyno time and found zero oil

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Old 09-11-2013, 03:29 PM   #61 (permalink)
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I checked all my hosing the other day btw, this is with about 400-500 street miles (most of it hard driving for logging) and dyno time and found zero oil inside my post-can hoses and a good coating of it inside the can itself.

Looks like the separators are working as intended.
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:58 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
I have zero issue, just dynoed too with no tune and running a little rich. Also have about 27mpg!

The valve covers come into the AOS bottom, there is internal baffling, then the top Y's off going to each port on the mani. The bottom is the drain hose. Again zero issues and collects a good amount every 1000 miles when I drain. The return hoses are also bone Fing dry I also cut my can in half and join it with a coupling so when I really want to clean it, I just pull it apart.



Thanks for the response makes me feel better about not being rash and buying two catch cans at once.
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Old 09-14-2013, 12:05 AM   #63 (permalink)
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Thanks for the response makes me feel better about not being rash and buying two catch cans at once.
No prob
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Old 09-15-2013, 01:23 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Dump'N on teh ground, like the early 60's cars is good enuff w/me...
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:05 AM   #65 (permalink)
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I'm new to 370Z's - is this only for boosted Z's? I had a previous supercharged car (not my Z) with big boost that I put catch cans on.

Bought one for the driver's side then made the 2nd one for the passenger side.

Would this type of can work or do they need to hold vacuum on a Z?

My homemade catch can...

1 stainless steel water bottle (Walmart)
1 K&N 2" base filter w stainless steel top
5/8" brass garden hose coupler
JB Weld
5/8" hose
Stainless steel fasteners
2" aluminium strapping
Steel wool (placed inside to ensure no oil blows to the top and thru the filter)

Picked a water bottle with a top OD that matched the K&N filter I had laying around.
Drilled the side of the bottle to insert the brass garden hose coupler.
JB welded the coupler to the bottle.
Hooked up to the valve cover outlet
Mounted up the bottle with the strapping



Before...


After!



You can see the Moroso tank & filter on the driver side - pretty close with the homemade - primary visual difference is the shape of the filters









Worked out great on this application at 22 lbs of boost. Very secure and fitment was excellent.
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:49 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by L33T Z34 View Post
Dump'N on teh ground, like the early 60's cars is good enuff w/me...
And you did this how? The 370z system is hooked to the inlets. You'd have a massive vacuum leak. Also you might want to rethink that statement. Hard cornering and fast driving with dumping to the ground on other cars I've been able to dump an *** load of oil out in hard G turns. Its not good when your tires, wheels and rotors are soaked in oil.
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:52 PM   #67 (permalink)
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I'm new to 370Z's - is this only for boosted Z's?
.
Every car in the WORLD needs a catch can!
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:48 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Not mine little oil in the intake manifold never hurt my feelings!
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:49 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Not mine little oil in the intake manifold never hurt my feelings!
Joking right?
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Old 09-15-2013, 11:12 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Nope! Over 10 years running my high power built motor 350z still doesn't have one. My 370z doesn't. Most of the customer Zs I built never got one either. What looks like a lot of oil when pooled up in a can, would have been a minuscule contamination to the hundred of thousands of times as much air that traveled through the engine in that same time.

I had all my charge pipes off 2 weeks ago when I did my solid motor mounts... There was hardly even a film.. So I still have a lot more mileage to go before I'm worried about the intercooler losing efficiency.
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Old 09-15-2013, 11:30 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Not to say that I don't respect one's desire to run one! I just have a much greater desire for less clutter personally.

I actually own one of the elite ones posted here. I purchased it many years ago for my 350 but it never made its way in.
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:22 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Your charge pipes should be dry. Why would you hook up the PCV system so far back and not like it is stock?

The manifolds the real story. That **** builds up like tar on it, bottom of fuel injectors, valves, cakes the top of the piston etc. its more internal that's the issue once it lowers octane mixing with the air/fuel. Ever done back to back dyno's on cars with similar setups with one with and one without after a lot of miles? And other cars are a must like subis. I can eject a 1/2 quart of oil out the valve vents in a high G turn which is why its a must they run AOS and not catch cans. The oil gets piped back to the block with them so they don't run out of oil after a few laps.

PS if your FI you'll always get oil in the charge pipes, the turbo seals can't seal 100% just like piston rings. But FI I'd definiantly do it because you now have two sources of oil getting into the manifold.
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:32 AM   #73 (permalink)
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coolest catch can? here you go!

Ultimate Oil Catch Can 1/2" NPT

They also have a more stealth looking version







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Old 09-16-2013, 12:54 AM   #74 (permalink)
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My PCV vents into the air filter tubes, which is why I would get wetness in the charge pipes if I had excessive crankcase ventilation. But I do not.

This is how it has to be with a turbocharged vehicle in order to maintain vacuum to the crankcase. If it were in the pressured piping, I would have no functional PCV system once I was in boost.

I do not have any concerns with the oil buildup. I have never been a professional subaru tuner to debate how important or not it may be on that car. But in my VQs, I do not share your concerns with oil build up at all!


Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
Your charge pipes should be dry. Why would you hook up the PCV system so far back and not like it is stock?

The manifolds the real story. That **** builds up like tar on it, bottom of fuel injectors, valves, cakes the top of the piston etc. its more internal that's the issue once it lowers octane mixing with the air/fuel. Ever done back to back dyno's on cars with similar setups with one with and one without after a lot of miles? And other cars are a must like subis. I can eject a 1/2 quart of oil out the valve vents in a high G turn which is why its a must they run AOS and not catch cans. The oil gets piped back to the block with them so they don't run out of oil after a few laps.

PS if your FI you'll always get oil in the charge pipes, the turbo seals can't seal 100% just like piston rings. But FI I'd definiantly do it because you now have two sources of oil getting into the manifold.
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Old 09-16-2013, 01:12 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Having owned a chassis dyno for several years.. I know that any HP differences from having or not having a catch can after thousands of miles will not be measurable between the existing inconsistencies pull to pull, car to car, day to day. You would need to pull data from a very large number of otherwise indentical cars to see if there is a true pattern. Even then, if anything were found, its safe to say that we are probably talking about the worst HP/dollar ratio out there. But I ever lose a race to a 370z with an oil catch can, ill reconsider!
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