Alternate solution to the oil cooler block off plate?

N8GTOL

Tracked my Z a while back at Big Willow when it was stock. Of course the oil temps got too hot and I had to pit early each session. Of course I knew this would happen before I went, I just wanted to get a stock baseline reference point and I still had a blast. I know I will get an oil cooler before I go back (likely a Z1 25R); however, since a lot of my regular trips are over short distances I do not want to over cool the oil on a daily basis. My non-spirited driving temps currently are right on the money around 210-220F and I don't want to change that significantly.

The obvious solution is a thermostatic sandwhich and a block off plate in conjuction with the oil cooler. The plate is a great idea but requires too much foresight for my whimsicle needs. Meaning, I have to know that I am going for a longer more aggressive drive before I get in the car and I would have to take the time to remove the plate in advanced and remember to put it back when I'm done.

My idea is to make a more permanent solution that could be controlled from inside the car. Everyone should be familiar with how adjustable louvers look and function. You could attach a small DC motor with limit switches to a worm screw with a carriage that would link up to the louver adjuster arm and it could be controlled from inside the car. You could bolt this cover directly to the oil cooler without fear of it coming loose and ending up elsewhere. When the oil temps climb too high under spirited driving, flip a switch to open the louvers. If ambient temps are too cold or the trips are short, flip the switch to close the louvers.

Sure it's not the cheap and easy option like the standard block off plate but I'm wondering if anyone sees a reason this wouldn't be possible? Mechanically I know it is doable as long as I can source parts for the right price. My biggest concern is packaging. It looks like there is enough clearance in the bumper for the louver vents to swing open but hopefully someone who has actually removed the bumper and installed an oil cooler can provide me more insight before I start down this road.

Skidracer87

Why are you doing this? The sandwich plate allows oil temp to come up to temp before the cooler is in the loop.

Skidracer87

There is no need to remove the thermostatic plate.

critical

The plate does everything this thing you want to build does. Read up on how the plate works

chops

he's not trying to remove the thermostatic sandwich plate. hes talking about a block off plate that covers the actual oil cooler to prevent overcooling..

Cuban Z

Any update on this?

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DEpointfive0

Cuban, have you installed your OC yet, with the thermostatic plate you shouldn't have a problem with over cooling

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Mandingo

Behold: Mocal Sandwich Plate 20mm Thread w/ 200 Degree T-Stat

MOC-SP1FT-HT is the 200 F version of MOC-SP1FT which is the 180 F thermostatic plate that Modshack used in his scratch built oil cooler

Not the cheapest solution but it it won't begin to send oil to the cooler until temps reach ~190-195 F

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LafitteZ

Yes man the thermostatic plate shuts off the cooler till it reaches a certain temp. Once there it opens. Also if your temps drop below it will shut again. My advice for you if you worried about over cooling then get a cooler that is the correct size for what your trying to do. In other words don't strap a 25 row if you only need a 19. It's a kiss rule- keep it simple stupid.

370Zsteve

You can't always K.I.S.S. it. He said that sometimes he tracks the car, and at least a 25 is recommended by most folks.

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djtodd

I used a piece of aluminum sheet, cut to fit around the cooler core, and held on with heavy-duty velcro in the colder months. Otherwise it won't come up to temp during normal driving (34 row). Total cost is like $15. I painted it matte black and you cant even see it when installed.

And yes, even with a thermo plate it never comes up to temp without the block-off plate. I get the impression it never really closes completely. Also the placement of the stock sender certianly has something to do with it. I'm sure the oil temp coming out is significantly higher than coming back in, so I take it with a grain of salt.

luigi90210

you shouldnt be over cooling the oil at any point with a thermostatic plate
if your plate opens up at 180F and you get to 180F, the plate will open allowing the oil to run through the cooler, and if the oil gets cooler than 180F, than the plate will close and prevent oil from running through the cooler

basically a thermostatic plate allows the car to run without the cooler to a certain point and when it reaches the temps that it is set to open at, it will allow the oil to be cooled

Rusty

The thermostatic plate never closes completely. They allow some oil flow through it. The idea behind it is that you don't want to send cold oil into a hot motor and hot oil into a cold cooler. There is a thread on this somewhere here. Also if you want to close off a few rows of the cooler. A $4.00 roll of duct tape works well too. Because racecar.

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djtodd

Sure, in theory. In reality it is flowing somewhat regardless of temperature. Combine that with a 34 row cooler, 7 quarts of oil, and very cold temperatures, and the result is I never get above 165, which is no good. Hence...I use a block-off plate when it's cold out

Gets up to and stays at 190ish. Perfecto

Z_Enthusiast

How much area are the 34 row guys blocking in winter months? Temperatures drop as low as 20-15°F in Memphis.

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Current Mods Fast intentions TDX 12" Resonators, Takeda Stage II cold air intake, MotorDyne Art Pipes, Z1 34 row oil cooler, TWM Short shifter & Weighted Knob, Avant Garde M310s, V12s 255/305