Looking at the schematic and the 2 other diagrams posted. It's really hard as to how the thermostat triggers open. The schematic shows a recirc back to the thermostat when closed. But when looking at the water outlet and piping. Item 25 is the recirc line?

so could you not then do a spacer for the upper water neck?

Keep in mind I am not sure on the space available in the area, just thinking aloud


While I love a full CNC billet piece as much as the next guy a few hundred on a water neck just isn't in the cards for me. But a ~$50 spacer would be.

29, 28, and the lower half of 25 yup, this is the loop that skips the rad when thermostat is closed. On the DE this loop is the big ugly one that crosses right over the front timing cover. The top half of 25 is the heater core return.

Ok, I got my head wrapped around it. Talk about making a simple system hard. :shakes head: Typical Japanese. Over engineered it. :shakes head: Looks like the best place for an aftermarket temp sensor is with the factory temp sensor. That location has constant flow.

Its actually the layout I am most accustomed to. The few engines I have put great attention into worked in a similar way. For me it would feel odd to go the other way.

Agreed. The stock sensor is in the best spot.

Here is a possible option for you. I have attached a photo sequence I took back in 2010 when I first did the twin turbo setup on my Z. When the trans is out, it is very easy to remove the water outlet housing from the back of the cylinder heads.

I wanted to delete the throttle coolant lines. The cleanest way for me to handle the barb on the water outlet was to pull it out (its a press fit) and then tap and plug the hole. When you pull out the barb, the hole left behind is a perfect diameter for a deep-set 1/8 NPT or BSPT thread. So I ran a tap in and then plugged it.

This bung could also be drilled and tapped oversize for your aftermarket water temp sensors. Of course, it will only handle so large of a thread before you would need to weld on the pipe also. But if you have a compact sensor, this is a great option.

Due to the male/female interface between the water return pipe and the upper water neck there, I believe the spacer would have to be quite thick. I think it would push the water neck out quiet a bit further than anyone liked, and also interfere with the dipstick upper mounting tab.

If and when I pull my tranny for a clutch. I think I might look into this deeper.

I'm so used to working on cars with the thermostats on the upper radiator hoses. Sometimes things like this I overlook. :shakes head:

http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...8122d496ca.png

FYI guys

I sent them an email a few months and never got a response.

Anyways, would like to know how will the koyo 370Z rad perform. From what i hear, they wern't very good for the 350Z

My CSF experience
 

Just figured i'd through in my 2 cents.

My CSF radiator started leaking after 1.5 years (just after warranty) and couldn't get it covered. CSF and Z1Motorsports swore it was an anomaly so I purchased a a new one using my own money. Guess what?... 1.5 years later, the new one started leaking as well! I'm in the process of working with Z1 trying to get this one covered. If I can get a refund, you can be sure I'm not going with CSF again. I don't know if it's the materials or the construction, but it's crap either way.

2 leaking radiators, both 1.5 years after purchase. That's all I have to say.

Russ

On my second CSF as well, i should have just stuck with the oem rad :shakes head:

so when the rad starts leaking, can they be repaired or is the costs not worth it?

I called a few local radiator shop. Some only buy sell, others repair or make special to order needs. When I mentioned that it was a aluminum rad and leaking where the end tank and fins connect, the owners all said, "sorry, can't fix that. I can get you a new one though." He explained to me that the end tank connection and the fines metal are to different in thickness. The fines will melt to a blob before you get penetration on the weld on the tank side. The shops that do repair them use epoxy and that is just a band aid. It will fail and you don't know the time frame. Two of the many shops I called said the exact same thing. So yes, it sucks that the CSF failed. Cost me good time and $ but it was nice when it worked. Just not worth the $700+ in material and labor IMO.

YzGyz

Ahh damm, so should I wait for the Koyo rad?

I will say it again stay with the oem radiator and if you are function over form guy then open up your front bumper and get a vented hood or hood vents. I have had no issues with over heating or high water temperatures since I put vents in my front bumper. I had a Fugimura hood when I first put the vents in and since then I have switched back to my oem with Trackspec hood inserts and the temps are never out of the normal range even at the track.