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Originally Posted by phunk time for new billet product... ? I like your thinking. Something with a lower temp, and a place for a sensor.
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I like your thinking.
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#2 (permalink) | ||
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something like the spacer they have for the sr20?
for example https://au.gktech.com/sr20-coolant-neck-spacer
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The thermostat spacer is clever but it’s not standard to measure coolant temps after the rad instead of before it. The stock sensors are on the water outlet housing on the rear of the engine. The thermostat area will give you water temps after the rad already cooled, or water inlet temp.
Seems like the easiest place to put the sensor would be the water housing at the front of the engine on the timing cover. Unless you wanted to be super clean and remove the rear water housing from the heads to weld a bung on. Pretty soon I have to make a billet front water housing anyway (one that clears our front throttle intake manifold), so I’ll keep this thread in mind when starting that project. |
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Diagram is wrong. That is the first time I ever seen the thermostat AFTER the rad. It's always before.
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Additional text from Nissan so that you don’t have to take my word for it. Notice what is referred to as the water inlet, and what is referred to as the water outlet. Also consider where the factory temp sensor is, and where it is not.
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Looking at the schematic and the 2 other diagrams posted. It's really hard as to how the thermostat triggers open. The schematic shows a recirc back to the thermostat when closed. But when looking at the water outlet and piping. Item 25 is the recirc line?
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29, 28, and the lower half of 25 yup, this is the loop that skips the rad when thermostat is closed. On the DE this loop is the big ugly one that crosses right over the front timing cover. The top half of 25 is the heater core return.
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Ok, I got my head wrapped around it. Talk about making a simple system hard.
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Here is a possible option for you. I have attached a photo sequence I took back in 2010 when I first did the twin turbo setup on my Z. When the trans is out, it is very easy to remove the water outlet housing from the back of the cylinder heads. I wanted to delete the throttle coolant lines. The cleanest way for me to handle the barb on the water outlet was to pull it out (its a press fit) and then tap and plug the hole. When you pull out the barb, the hole left behind is a perfect diameter for a deep-set 1/8 NPT or BSPT thread. So I ran a tap in and then plugged it. This bung could also be drilled and tapped oversize for your aftermarket water temp sensors. Of course, it will only handle so large of a thread before you would need to weld on the pipe also. But if you have a compact sensor, this is a great option. |
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so could you not then do a spacer for the upper water neck?
Keep in mind I am not sure on the space available in the area, just thinking aloud While I love a full CNC billet piece as much as the next guy a few hundred on a water neck just isn't in the cards for me. But a ~$50 spacer would be.
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2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap Last edited by sirnixalot; 01-02-2018 at 09:34 AM. |
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